lubedude what are your thoughts for using 0w? I was just thinking a little thinner oil getting up to the turbo faster. Especially during the winter months.
Why hasn't Hyundai moved on to 0w oil?
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I think by using a 0w will flow better and faster offering better protection. What is your planned OCI??
Been doing 3k for 30 years on mineral oil. Gonna do 5k with synthetic. My dealer uses Mobil 1 5w20. Whats the difference in thickness between 5w20 and 0w30? I know very little about synthetics other than there very confusing.
Here is a sample of amsoil signature series which is what I use. Notice the viscosity numbers at both 40 & 100 degrees. Also the other numbers too. Just comparing will give you an idea
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf
If you are gonna do 5k on synthetics you should def be fine with. A 0w not shearing. I do 7k-10k but I don't have a turbo
How does your engine sound? My neighbor just got a 2013 and the engine is a little on the noisy side..
My 2011 v6 is noisy also as is my 2010 v6 but they run well
My 2011 v6 is noisy also as is my 2010 v6 but they run well
German Castrol is actually a very "thick 30" with an HTHS of at least 3.5, and UOA's have shown it to be incredibly shear resistant.
You will generally get better base stocks when you move into the "0" grades which helps with shear resistance.
You will generally get better base stocks when you move into the "0" grades which helps with shear resistance.
Originally Posted By: ntdouglas
Originally Posted By: lubedude13
How are they going to prove you use a 0w30 instead of 5w30???
Is it noticeably thinner than 5w30?
The answer is no.
The only readily available light OTC 0W-30 is M1 AFE 0W-30. There are likely a number of 5W-30 syn's such as Havoline 5W-30 that will likely be somewhat lighter at all temp's down to at least -20F vs M1.
In a Chicago climate their is no cold start advantage in using a 0W-30 grade and since it is not a grade specified by Hyundai (as technically silly as that might be) I wouldn't
recommend using it during your warranty period.
On the other hand most 0W-20's are lighter than 5W-20's at all temp's due to their higher viscosity indexes but no one is suggesting you use a 0W-20.
Originally Posted By: lubedude13
How are they going to prove you use a 0w30 instead of 5w30???
Is it noticeably thinner than 5w30?
The answer is no.
The only readily available light OTC 0W-30 is M1 AFE 0W-30. There are likely a number of 5W-30 syn's such as Havoline 5W-30 that will likely be somewhat lighter at all temp's down to at least -20F vs M1.
In a Chicago climate their is no cold start advantage in using a 0W-30 grade and since it is not a grade specified by Hyundai (as technically silly as that might be) I wouldn't
recommend using it during your warranty period.
On the other hand most 0W-20's are lighter than 5W-20's at all temp's due to their higher viscosity indexes but no one is suggesting you use a 0W-20.
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
How does your engine sound? My neighbor just got a 2013 and the engine is a little on the noisy side..
My 2011 v6 is noisy also as is my 2010 v6 but they run well
Mine sounds fine. But used to Hyundais also.
How does your engine sound? My neighbor just got a 2013 and the engine is a little on the noisy side..
My 2011 v6 is noisy also as is my 2010 v6 but they run well
Mine sounds fine. But used to Hyundais also.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I use M1 0w20 in my Accent and 0w40 in my Genesis Coupe turbo. What's the chances of having an oil related failure on these oils that would void the warranty?
So you have the same turbo engine as mine correct? What brand 0w40?
I use M1 0w20 in my Accent and 0w40 in my Genesis Coupe turbo. What's the chances of having an oil related failure on these oils that would void the warranty?
So you have the same turbo engine as mine correct? What brand 0w40?
Originally Posted By: ntdouglas
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I use M1 0w20 in my Accent and 0w40 in my Genesis Coupe turbo. What's the chances of having an oil related failure on these oils that would void the warranty?
So you have the same turbo engine as mine correct? What brand 0w40?
I think the turbo engines are actually different. One is FWD the other RWD. The Accent is not noisy at all. Can't hardly hear it run and many times I have ground the starter because the engine is already running.
The Genesis Coupe has very noisy up sized fuel injectors, stupid rattling dual mass flywheel and the 3" exhaust is kind of loud.
Both oils are M1 and the 0w40 just got the price cut at Wally Marts down under $23 for a 5qt jug.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I use M1 0w20 in my Accent and 0w40 in my Genesis Coupe turbo. What's the chances of having an oil related failure on these oils that would void the warranty?
So you have the same turbo engine as mine correct? What brand 0w40?
I think the turbo engines are actually different. One is FWD the other RWD. The Accent is not noisy at all. Can't hardly hear it run and many times I have ground the starter because the engine is already running.
The Genesis Coupe has very noisy up sized fuel injectors, stupid rattling dual mass flywheel and the 3" exhaust is kind of loud.
Both oils are M1 and the 0w40 just got the price cut at Wally Marts down under $23 for a 5qt jug.
Originally Posted By: ntdouglas
lubedude what are your thoughts for using 0w? I was just thinking a little thinner oil getting up to the turbo faster. Especially during the winter months.
ntdouglas,
Please remember that a 0W-30 is not automatically "thinner" than a 5W-30 overall. In fact I know of a 0W-30 that is almost a 40 weight. The ratings are temperature specific...a zeedub is thinner at startup than a 5W at colder temps but the 30W rating at higher temps could be "thinner" for a 5W-30 than a 0W-30.
lubedude what are your thoughts for using 0w? I was just thinking a little thinner oil getting up to the turbo faster. Especially during the winter months.
ntdouglas,
Please remember that a 0W-30 is not automatically "thinner" than a 5W-30 overall. In fact I know of a 0W-30 that is almost a 40 weight. The ratings are temperature specific...a zeedub is thinner at startup than a 5W at colder temps but the 30W rating at higher temps could be "thinner" for a 5W-30 than a 0W-30.
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Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I use M1 0w20 in my Accent and 0w40 in my Genesis Coupe turbo. What's the chances of having an oil related failure on these oils that would void the warranty?
I can't speak for the Genesis, but if the Accent calls for a 5w-20, XOM warrants its 0w-20 for any 5w-20 application.
I use M1 0w20 in my Accent and 0w40 in my Genesis Coupe turbo. What's the chances of having an oil related failure on these oils that would void the warranty?
I can't speak for the Genesis, but if the Accent calls for a 5w-20, XOM warrants its 0w-20 for any 5w-20 application.
Originally Posted By: Danno
Originally Posted By: lubedude13
I use 0w30 in my car which calls for a 5w30.....I'd like to see them call "warranty issue" by using a 0w instead of 10w!!!!!
I personally use a 0w amsoil and I have NO shear problems
Your car, your money, your decision.
0W30 should be compatible with engines calling for 5W30 or 10W30. At engine operating temperature, all three have thickness within the same 30-grade range, but 0W30 will give you better cold start lubrication compared to the other two. Some argue that due to needing more viscosity modifiers 0W30 is less stout than synthetic 5W30 (but then look at 0W30 German Castrol which is extremely stout), but 0W30 will beat a dyno 5W30 in every way IMHO.
Originally Posted By: lubedude13
I use 0w30 in my car which calls for a 5w30.....I'd like to see them call "warranty issue" by using a 0w instead of 10w!!!!!
I personally use a 0w amsoil and I have NO shear problems
Your car, your money, your decision.
0W30 should be compatible with engines calling for 5W30 or 10W30. At engine operating temperature, all three have thickness within the same 30-grade range, but 0W30 will give you better cold start lubrication compared to the other two. Some argue that due to needing more viscosity modifiers 0W30 is less stout than synthetic 5W30 (but then look at 0W30 German Castrol which is extremely stout), but 0W30 will beat a dyno 5W30 in every way IMHO.
It's not quite fair to compare GC 0w-30 to a normal synthetic 0w-30 SN/GF-5, since they have very different target applications and certifications. Nonetheless, I would agree that a synthetic 0w-30 SN/GF-5 should be able to replace a 5w-30 or 10w-30 of the same specifications.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
0w vs 5w is a cold weather start issue only. 90% of engine wear is at cold start. Fast spinning turbos need oil immediately if not sooner.
That has been my thinking. Although like I posted earlier I don't know a whole lot about synthetics and intricacies of each viscosity. Thats why I'm relying on you experts.
Whats your opinion on M1 5w20? Thats what is used at my dealership.
0w vs 5w is a cold weather start issue only. 90% of engine wear is at cold start. Fast spinning turbos need oil immediately if not sooner.
That has been my thinking. Although like I posted earlier I don't know a whole lot about synthetics and intricacies of each viscosity. Thats why I'm relying on you experts.
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