Pistons warm up pretty fast but water cooled cylinders do not. Hence the clearance problems.
Why drive gentle if hydrodynamic lubrication achieved?
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The engine is designed to operate best when at operating temperature. depending on your engine and its engineers and manufacturing it may be quite OK to start it and lay down 10ft of firestone on every startup. Other engine may have a single component that is late on getting proper lubrication or thermal expansion and putting the extra stress of high piston loads and RPM on those parts may cause some wear. Sometimes, all it takes is one imperfection to start and it will be like a pothole in the road. get bigger and bigger over time where if the pothole never started it would be fine for a long time.
one tight fitting bearing or bushing, one slightly plugged oil passage, anywhere that oil my take some time to permeate the tight fitting pieces, are at risk of low lubrication.
Let the temp needle at least start moving before putting the pedal to the medal.
one tight fitting bearing or bushing, one slightly plugged oil passage, anywhere that oil my take some time to permeate the tight fitting pieces, are at risk of low lubrication.
Let the temp needle at least start moving before putting the pedal to the medal.
I don't think that any engine with a slightly plugged oil passage would live very long. And I can't see how a oil passage would ever get plugged in the first place.
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The thread is also focusing on OEM engines that are designed around a higher operating temperature. It's not applicable to something like a drag racing engine that's built to run at 120*F.
I happen to own a car that has an oil temperature gauge. It generally takes that car 20 minutes for the oil to get up to 180ºF, the water temperature gets there by 6-8 minutes. Both gauges stabilize at 210ºF in normal driving, a touch higher in stop and go city driving, a bit lower on long interstate cruises.
Since several components of the anti-wear additive package do not start working until the oil is over 180ºF, it is best to wait for that temperature before giving the engine as much throttle as the pedal allows.
It should also be noted that this is an engine with an 8,500 RPM redline.
Since several components of the anti-wear additive package do not start working until the oil is over 180ºF, it is best to wait for that temperature before giving the engine as much throttle as the pedal allows.
It should also be noted that this is an engine with an 8,500 RPM redline.
My Kawasaki if driven at 30% potential is spinning at 5000rpm and 70Kms/h in 6th gear .This is the minimum stress it gets every day .50% potential is 7000rpm and 95kms/h.
Is survives that (and worse)for 11 years every day going to work and back (quite short trip, under 10kms) for 75.000kms with zero problems.
I wonder if my Ford gets even slightly annoyed when I shift gears at 3000rpm cold .
Is survives that (and worse)for 11 years every day going to work and back (quite short trip, under 10kms) for 75.000kms with zero problems.
I wonder if my Ford gets even slightly annoyed when I shift gears at 3000rpm cold .
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Originally Posted by Mitch Alsup
I happen to own a car that has an oil temperature gauge. It generally takes that car 20 minutes for the oil to get up to 180ºF, the water temperature gets there by 6-8 minutes. Both gauges stabilize at 210ºF in normal driving, a touch higher in stop and go city driving, a bit lower on long interstate cruises.
Since several components of the anti-wear additive package do not start working until the oil is over 180ºF, it is best to wait for that temperature before giving the engine as much throttle as the pedal allows.
It should also be noted that this is an engine with an 8,500 RPM redline.
My 86 300ZX turbo had an oem oil temp gauge. I wish all cars had them.
I happen to own a car that has an oil temperature gauge. It generally takes that car 20 minutes for the oil to get up to 180ºF, the water temperature gets there by 6-8 minutes. Both gauges stabilize at 210ºF in normal driving, a touch higher in stop and go city driving, a bit lower on long interstate cruises.
Since several components of the anti-wear additive package do not start working until the oil is over 180ºF, it is best to wait for that temperature before giving the engine as much throttle as the pedal allows.
It should also be noted that this is an engine with an 8,500 RPM redline.
My 86 300ZX turbo had an oem oil temp gauge. I wish all cars had them.
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
My 86 300ZX turbo had an oem oil temp gauge. I wish all cars had them.
My much more pedestrian old Chevy (below) didn't have an oil temperature gauge, but had an oil pressure gauge that provided clues. As the oil warmed up, the pressure typically dropped from near the top end of the gauge to stabilize at two-thirds or so of the way across after about 20 miles.
Sadly, that instrument vanished and was replaced by an idiot light the following model year, and the ammeter was too.
My 86 300ZX turbo had an oem oil temp gauge. I wish all cars had them.
My much more pedestrian old Chevy (below) didn't have an oil temperature gauge, but had an oil pressure gauge that provided clues. As the oil warmed up, the pressure typically dropped from near the top end of the gauge to stabilize at two-thirds or so of the way across after about 20 miles.
Sadly, that instrument vanished and was replaced by an idiot light the following model year, and the ammeter was too.
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