The stuff works fine as long as the outside temps are above 40. The SL version has all the additives and detergents that any 10w-30 has. Back in the old days it was one of the few oils available. I'm not talking about the non-detergent junk that is still available.
Why do people treat SAE 30 as an Anti--******?
- Thread starter KJA426
- Start date
- Status
Well, for one thing 95% of the country will experience temps of 40 or less at least once per year, and probably 85% will see 30 or less.
I don't think there is anything inherantly wrong with straight 30 but it won't work for most people due to warranty concerns, weather concerns, or a combo of both.
I don't think there is anything inherantly wrong with straight 30 but it won't work for most people due to warranty concerns, weather concerns, or a combo of both.
Plus, why wouldn't you want the thinner viscosity a 10W-30 offers when "cold"? I don't think most folks have to worry about viscosity shear in most applications, so I don't see a benefit to a straight 30-weight for most folks.
I'm speaking of using it mostly from May-October.
I think it's great stuff.
For lawnmowers.
For lawnmowers.
I think some old style dino Grp 1 SAE 30's don't have very good film strength and oxidation resistance necessary for newer hi-po cars. I know you aren't talking about the older oils, but you asked about the rep.
Merlin makes a great point about the temps, and that's a good thing about a synthetic SAE 30 - flow like a 5W or 10W!!!
Merlin makes a great point about the temps, and that's a good thing about a synthetic SAE 30 - flow like a 5W or 10W!!!
One SAE 30 I would trust (for appropriate temperatures of course) is Valvoline Maxlife.
Are the latest formulations still Group 1? I know they have a low viscosity index compared to the multi-vis oils.
That's another one of my points. If it can stand up to the heat of an air-cooled lawnmower or industrial engine then why not a liquid-cooled car engine?
I am totally comfortable with my Delo SAE 30 in the Audi or the Honda for the middle of summer. +40c visc is actually lower than 15w-40. It does not hit 2000cP until +30f degrees and 5000cP at +20f. If you want SAE 30, HDEO has got to be the way to go. I would not mess with SAE 30 PCMO. Anyway, I can toss in some 5w-30 and some 10 or 15w-40 for Fall/Spring. I cannot use it in my winters. There are advantages to the 30 weight, burn-off and FP etc.
KJA426: Hopefully it is screened out to keep folks from taking His name in vain. Anyway, check this site out: www.themotoroilsite.com
as i understand it, multi grade oils were introduced as a convenience to the motorist thus avoiding changing grades seasonally, eg 30 in winter and 40 in summer where i live. i am surprised that more purists have not demanded a larger range of performance monogrades and am blown away by the predjudice towards them " I THINK IT'S GREAT STUFF ... FOR LAWNMOWERS" smirk smirk
Does an SAE 30 have a better HTHS compaired to a 5w30 or 10w30 ??
Yes, it's higher as far as HDEO goes. I don't think it's the 4.1 that 15w-40s need for their given specs, but iirc it's 3.5, same as A3-spec. Either way it's 12.1cSt, and higher FP vs 5w/10w-30 weight PCMOs at 10cSt. A lot of people complain about normal 30 weights being too thin...and burning-off too, well???
The product data sheets I looked at tended not to list HTHS values for single grade oils, and their MSDS sheets did tend to show more group I basestocks.
I only use straight 30 in my air-cooled mower and tiller, where multi-weight oils thin out too much and get past the rings and valves.
I only use straight 30 in my air-cooled mower and tiller, where multi-weight oils thin out too much and get past the rings and valves.
I would think a SAE 30 could be used to thicken the base oil of a 10w30, maybe to a 15w30 or something. Make your own high mileage oil.
I'm pretty sure for diesel use the oils must meet HT/HS 3.5. 10w-30 HDEO is a bit thinner than SAE 30, so I feel confident.
'Because a straight 30 wt. oil will result in more start up wear at 75 F than a multi-grade 5W-30 oil.
People cannot get over the principal that viscosity varies with temperature. If the engine is designed to run with an oil having a viscosity of 11 cS at operating temperature then at all lesser temperatures the oil is not optimal, it is too thick.
Only an oil having the appropriate viscosity, the same at all temperatures, is truly correct.
aehaas
People cannot get over the principal that viscosity varies with temperature. If the engine is designed to run with an oil having a viscosity of 11 cS at operating temperature then at all lesser temperatures the oil is not optimal, it is too thick.
Only an oil having the appropriate viscosity, the same at all temperatures, is truly correct.
aehaas
CH, as a fellow board admin, there are limits that need to be adhered to. Without them, it's the wild west. Yes, it feels odd to see this in a thread like this, but that's precisely the point. This place is about oil after all...
Read somewhere that it can take 15-20minutes at highway speeds for an oil to get to operating or 100c spec. Armed with that bit of info (right or wrong) I reasoned that my 19 mile commute (1/2 highway) my oil was probably at ideal temp when I shut it off at work. I now run a 5w20 in a car that specs Xw30, at least for this winter, and it's probably still too thick for most the commute.
Shouldn't it be capitol L and S kja?
Shouldn't it be capitol L and S kja?
- Status
