Why 10K Miles Oil change may not be good!

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Ah yes, the Great Car Care Nut. I just watched the first video, which he just posted three hours ago.

It is very persuasive, and provides specific video/experience.

Typical oil change intervals should be at 5k miles or 6 months, with oil of known quality and value. This is to avoid such things as frozen oil control rings.

Watching this video was 45 minutes very well spent IMV.

Watch the second one I posted from him. He goes into more detail about the oil control rings as well and low tension rings, etc....
 

OVERKILL

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Watch the second one I posted from him. He goes into more detail about the oil control rings as well and low tension rings, etc....
Low tension rings have been around for a very long time, though their use had previously been reserved for high performance applications for the performance benefit. What lubricant you use also has a considerable impact here. I could tell a story of two Windsors but it may be a bit too anecdotal. Cliff-notes: GTX at 3K intervals wasn't as effective at keeping this stuff clean as Mobil 1 was at twice that under conditions that would probably be considered abusive.
 
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I like him, he’s practical, he’s experienced and he’s not really selling anything. He’s very knowledgeable on everything Toyota/Lexus. I’d trust him to work on my car because he’s seen it before and he seems honest. Do I think 10,000 mile intervals would do this to everyone owning a Toyota? No because he also mentions people not checking oil levels (in other videos) and poor oil quality - which he’s right about at the dealer - they are not giving you anything but house ”brand” unless you pay extra for Mobil1 or TGMO.
Ah yes, the Great Car Care Nut. I just watched the first video, which he just posted three hours ago.

It is very persuasive, and provides specific video/experience.

Typical oil change intervals should be at 5k miles or 6 months, with oil of known quality and value. This is to avoid such things as frozen oil control rings.

Watching this video was 45 minutes very well spent IMV.
 
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The interesting bit was what he didn't say...what oil was the dealership using at 10K OCI?

No visible sludge or significant varnish in the engine's splashed or washed surfaces, oil control rings were completely immobilized and cylinder wall was worn. Bearing shell he showed had no visible damage. Strong evidence that they were using synthetic oil of some brand. But was it a low-end oil brand? Could TGMO or other reputable brand have prevented this at 10K OCI?

Seems like the oil was cooked at the piston...I'd love to see pics of the piston undersides and I'll ask on his YT channel. Did the oil sprayers in the block clog up (but with what given no visible sludge)? Is it another case of Toyota pistons clogging the oil holes in the ringlands?

Impossible to judge the cyl wall damage, but I really wonder if the oil control rings couldn't have been unstuck with Valvoline Blue Restore oil or something similar...

Ah yes, the Great Car Care Nut. I just watched the first video, which he just posted three hours ago.

It is very persuasive, and provides specific video/experience.

Typical oil change intervals should be at 5k miles or 6 months, with oil of known quality and value. This is to avoid such things as frozen oil control rings.

Watching this video was 45 minutes very well spent IMV.
 
Last edited:

OVERKILL

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The interesting bit was what he didn't say...what oil was the dealership using at 10K OCI?

No visible sludge or significant varnish in the engine's splashed or washed surfaces, oil control rings were completely immobilized and cylinder wall was worn. Bearing shell he showed had no visible damage. Strong evidence that they were using synthetic oil of some brand. But was it a low-end oil brand? Could TGMO or other reputable brand have prevented this at 10K OCI?

Seems like the oil was cooked at the piston...I'd love to see pics of the piston undersides and I'll ask on his YT channel. Did the oil sprayers in the block clog up (but with what given no visible sludge)? Is it another case of Toyota pistons clogging the oil holes in the ringlands?

Impossible to judge the cyl wall damage, but I really wonder if the oil control rings couldn't have been unstuck with Valvoline Blue Restore oil or something similar...
TGMO uses very light bases and massive amounts of VII, I wouldn't consider it a premium offering by any stretch. M1 EP and others like it are considerably more robust.

Piston cleanliness is a targeted, and tested parameter, and the API limits, historically, haven't been overly stringent:
Exxon Mobil technical_Page_19.jpg
 
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I agree. Going to 10k miles is a waste. Should at least get 15k miles out of it.
Exactly. We just did 15,656 OCI on my daughter's car, and lest anyone thinks the "engine is already damaged by worn out oil," I have 3 test lab reports on the oil @ 7500 miles, ~12.5K mi and 15K miles. All 3 reports state "oil is suitable for continued use." I can post them if asked. Additional pertinent info; the car is NOT turbo'd or GDI, uses Amsoil SS 5W30 (the best oil on the market). I did not NEED to change the oil yet, but I DID because I wanted to add Motorsilk to the engine.
The REAL truth is that YMMV; sump size, oil quality, engine and driving characteristics and too many other variables to list all affect a reasonable OCI; and what is reasonable to me may be insanity to you.
 
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Exactly. We just did 15,656 OCI on my daughter's car, and lest anyone thinks the "engine is already damaged by worn out oil," I have 3 test lab reports on the oil @ 7500 miles, ~12.5K mi and 15K miles. All 3 reports state "oil is suitable for continued use." I can post them if asked. Additional pertinent info; the car is NOT turbo'd or GDI, uses Amsoil SS 5W30 (the best oil on the market). I did not NEED to change the oil yet, but I DID because I wanted to add Motorsilk to the engine.
Why are you adding something to (the best oil on the market)?
 
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Why are you adding something to the best oil on the market?
Three reasons: 1) I'm an arrogant know it all. 2) I have a sense of humor. 3) I'm not on here enough to care what you think or opine. I have been mocked since the day I joined, and the reason I still occasionally hang here is because of such treasures as Trav, Clinebarger and a few other highly respected members whom I have learned much from.
 
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Three reasons: 1) I'm an arrogant know it all. 2) I have a sense of humor. 3) I'm not on here enough to care what you think or opine. I have been mocked since the day I joined, and the reason I still occasionally hang here is because of such treasures as Trav, Clinebarger and a few other highly respected members whom I have learned much from.
thumbs-up-sarcasm.gif
 
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I can't lie, I follow the MM but it's all highway 🛣️ so I don't worry as much will synthetic oil. Along with pulling the pcv valve and cleaning it, running pea fuel system cleaner once per oci, gdi throttle body spray and now the HPL Ec30 in the crankcase I feel ok. I might start changing at 15% after I get to 200,000 miles. Currently at....
 

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10K miles for OCI, who does that!??

early OCI is a lowest cost of insurance for durability and longevity of your engine

the same goes for your food, everyones likes fresh ingredients or food at the dining table so the same goes for car fluids

again, change your oil early
Yeah for over 300k on my ECHO, pictures posted here and it looks good.

On my old Sienna? No way.
 
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That ecoboost video was for 5K oil changes. I can't help but wonder what oil was being used, and why it got as nasty as it did in 18K miles.
Ford hasn't had a particularly stringent spec for motor oil on the 1.5L (and 2.0L) ecoboosts. They list the latest API spec in a couple energy conserving viscosities... I don't see anything surprising really--these results seem in-line with the average vehicle manufacturer performance expectations for the life of the vehicle. You know, ala by 100,000 miles (or insert other warranty mileage/time) it can burn just shy of 1qt/1,000 miles.

I don't know of too many that have the same performance expectations.
Either expect a different warranty, an adjusted change interval, or more premium peforming oil. Or a combo.
I know the disconnect is that great majority of consumers are looking at their investment reaching some 7,000ish operating hours before becoming financially irrational to keep.
 
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My view of why a 10k mile oil change interval is not a good plan is actually not even related to the oil. My main reason to avoid 10k and higher OCI's is simply because #1 most modern engines burn oil so by the time you get to 10k you could be 1qt or more low. I say this because most of the population never checks their oil and I see regular customers coming in 2-3qts low especially on GM ecotecs and 3.6L motors. If you check your oil and keep it up then yes 10k is doable. #2 I feel that extending OCI too far out doesn't allow you to catch other problems before they happen. I go over my cars at every oil change and have caught more than a few issues that had they not been caught earlier would really have been bad news later. So, summary - yes oils can go 10K miles easy but the person driving the car might never check the oil and end up damaging the car anyhow as well as something going on that won't be detected until it's too late. My personal OCI's are between 5-7k miles using full syn.
 
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TGMO uses very light bases and massive amounts of VII, I wouldn't consider it a premium offering by any stretch. M1 EP and others like it are considerably more robust.

Piston cleanliness is a targeted, and tested parameter, and the API limits, historically, haven't been overly stringent.
API exempts 0W-16 and 0W-20 from the TEOST 33C Hight Temperature Deposit test. I don't find it a coincidence that may engines(especially Japanese) running 0W-20 end up oil burning POSs due to gunked up rings.

See page 11 of this document to confirm:

Ed
 
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