Who's got a 5th Gen Accord w/ VTEC?

[thooks]

Just wondering who else besides myself and Palut have a 5th Gen Accord 4cyl with VTEC.

How many miles?
How long have you had it?
What kind of oil?
What OCIs?

What problems?


Me- I've got a 1995 EX 4dr sedan.
142,600 miles
I've had it 6 months or so
I use 5W30, currently using Havoline.

Engine was nasty when I got it. My first oil change was when I pulled in the garage. Next one was 500 miles. The oil was BLACK. The idiot sticker in the windshield indicated I had 3,000 miles left. Yeah, rite.

The next one was 1000 miles, next one was 1700 miles, then 2000 miles, and now I'm about 4,000 miles into the current oil.

It runs good, kinda noisy, but the mechanics say the 5th Gen VTECs make noise. I get about 26 MPG in town and over 33 on the highway.

 

[Quest]

thooks-

For Honda engines with unknown maintenance history, it is to your best interest if you can perform 2 rounds of AutoRx to rid of all the oil passage crap and what-not and then start with your own OCI regimen.

As for noise, consider doing valve lash adjustments (I believe it's specified cold, but any highly experienced mechanics in alu cylinder head shall be able to perform hot valve adjustements confidently) and it will quiet down the engine noise considerably.

As for a rather "hollow" sound coming out from Honda engines (with your given mileage) this is normal. Just enjoy it after it's sufficiently warmed up.

Flush your trannie if possible (AutoRx).

Also, 5th gen Honda Accords (US assembled-Maryland) typical 4-cyl engine blocks suffered from crankshaft seal problems which Honda has issued a TBN recall for that (free servicing). Check with your "stealerships" to ensure that the seal has been replaced otherwise it may fail on you.

 

[Palut]

I'll just post myself for reference.

'95 Accord EX VTEC, currently at about 168,000 miles. Bought in March '03 with 90,840 miles on it. Oil change history is as follows:

91,974: blend of Pennzoil 15W-40 & Castrol 5W-50
96,598: blend of Pennzoil Syn 5W-3, Castrol 5W-50 and Pennzoil 15W-40
100,227: blend of Pennzoil syn 10W-30 and Pennzoil 15W-40
103,800: M1 0W-40 and Pennzoil 15W-40
107,735: same
111,126: M1 0W-40, added ARX a few thousand miles later
113,811: Pennzoil 15W-40 (ARX rinse phase)
115,400: M1 5W-40
120,069: M1 5W-40
125,255: M1 5W-40
130,033: Chevron 10W-30, ARX
131,564: Chevron 10W-30
133,216: Chevron 10W-30, ARX
134,300: Chevron 10W-30
137,142: Rotella 5W-40
139,760: Redline 10W-30
145,016: M1 10W-30
149,654: blend of M1 15W-50 and 0W-20 and Delvac 15W-40
155,236: same
160,024: blend of Delvac 15W-40 and M1 0W-20
164,978: Pennzoil High Mileage 10W-30
167,466: same (changed early when I replaced the oil pan)

The car got a shuddering problem when I did the double ARX treatment on it, and that was the only difference the ARX made. From my experience, I recommend against ARX in these cars. I posted some pics of under my valve cover a few thousand miles ago. Not pretty even after three treatments.

I've replaced the starter, a leaking A/C hose, a CV boot and a cracked oil pan. The SRS light has stayed on since the day I bought it, and the ABS light occasionally comes on. So it's not the most trouble free car ever, but it's never anything serious, so I'm happy with it.

I get ~29 mpg in city driving, and ~31-32 mpg on the highway.

Quest is right about those oil seals. I got the retainer put on two weeks ago with my timing belt change.

P.S. Mine has always been noisy too.

 

[JMK3rd]

Hi,
I've got a 1997 Accord EX 2.2L automatic.

It's got 170K on it and runs well. The trans has just started slipping slightly on the 3 to 4 upshift on the first few miles in the morning. After that it shifts as firm as ever. It only happens in the morning, only on the 3 to 4 upshift, only for a few miles (about 2 shifts). I've been rligious about changing the ATF with Honda Z1 every 15K miles. Oh well....

For the first 100K of the cars life, it had JiffyLube/Dealer oil changes every 4 to 6K miles. I bought the car used and have all the receipts and it was well maintained. One thing I noticed is that most of the time, the amount of oil used (indicated on the receipt) during the oil change was 4 quarts. It takes 5 quarts to bring the oil level up to the full mark. So, for the first 100K, it started each OCI a quart low (usually). I'm sure this would be common to most vehilces that get their oil changed by the fast lube places.

Since I bought it, the only major repair I did was a new radiator at 140K. The timing belt was also replaced at this time by a "friend of a friend" that "know's Honda's". The timing belt replacement was botched. I got the car back with a noticible vibration from the engine at all speeds. Let's just say that you shold NEVER have your timing belt replaced by ANYONE other than a fully qualied Honda mechanic....

As for why we're all here....I've used a lot of different oils. And, I've slowly been increasing the OCI to my current 10K. Right now I have Pennzoil Platinum in there with a PureOne oversize PL24458 filter. I'm 8K into this oil and:

- It still looks good on the dipstick (not very scientific, I know)

- It's only used a half a quart over 8K miles...BIG difference than the Mobil 1 EP I used previously. The enginge drank that at a rate of 1 quart every 4 thousand miles. PP is much better in that regard.

- PP is much quieter than the Mobil 1 EP during startup and seems smoother too.

- Gas mileage is the same between Mobil 1 EP and PP, from what I can tell.

This is my first run on this oil. I'll dump it in 2K miles or so and refill it with PP (using another PureOne) and do a UOA on that fill.

Jim

 

[desmonsm]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Quest:
thooks-

For Honda engines with unknown maintenance history, it is to your best interest if you can perform 2 rounds of AutoRx to rid of all the oil passage crap and what-not and then start with your own OCI regimen.

As for noise, consider doing valve lash adjustments (I believe it's specified cold, but any highly experienced mechanics in alu cylinder head shall be able to perform hot valve adjustements confidently) and it will quiet down the engine noise considerably.

As for a rather "hollow" sound coming out from Honda engines (with your given mileage) this is normal. Just enjoy it after it's sufficiently warmed up.

Flush your trannie if possible (AutoRx).

Also, 5th gen Honda Accords (US assembled-Maryland) typical 4-cyl engine blocks suffered from crankshaft seal problems which Honda has issued a TBN recall for that (free servicing). Check with your "stealerships" to ensure that the seal has been replaced otherwise it may fail on you.

---

Just to correct a few things:
1. Accords are manufactured in Marysville, Ohio not Maryland.
2. TSB, not TBN, is an acronym for technical service bulletin. These are issued by the manufacturer to aid in the diagnosis and repair of common problems. TSB's do not entitle the owner to a free repair - that's what a warranty is. Work performed under a TSB can sometimes be performed by a dealer free of charge or for a reduced price if your vehicle is out of warranty, however. The dealer needs the pre-approval of the local manufacturer representative.
Thooks - are you a member over at DriveAccord?
If anyone on this forum needs a copy of a Honda TSB just give me the number and I can get it for you.

 

[Ray H]

It wasn't a crankshaft seal. It was the seal retainer for the balance shaft. (I'm unclear whether the retainer was a pressed in piece or whether it's threaded into the block.) The danger was that this seal retainer could back out and dump oil under pressure thereby destroying the engine if the owner was unable to shutdown in time. The fix was drilling a hole through the retainer lip and on into the block and then installing a self-tapping screw to lock the retainer in place. Letters were sent out specifying the procedure was free at anytime prior January 1, 2003. After that date, having this attended to is on the owner's nickel according to the letter I received. The best way to find out whether the seal retainer service was done on a particular affected vehicle is to contact any U.S. Honda dealer's service department. Any Honda serviced for anything will be on Honda's national servicing database.

[ April 13, 2006, 06:59 PM: Message edited by: Ray H ]

 

[Quest]

Thank you all.

The so-called "retainer" is pressedfit.

Sorry, I can no longer recall (lots of memory relapse and health problems lately) exactly where NA Japanese car assembly plants are exactly located. I can only recall where some of the OEM parts suppliers are (and am indifferent about Delphi).

Palut-

I have several "certified Honda mechanics" serving the trade and from what I can tell, they too, are using the so-called 10-min solvent flush on neglicted Honda engines in the shops (which I strongly detest) just because "stealerships" stock up on them. In private, however, none of them would use solvent flush in their engines and most of them would stick to a rigid maintenance and OCI regimen and their engines usually outlasts the car (got one that has over280kkms to date and it's a 1990 model).

It is unfortunate that you have some kind of "shrudder" (coincidental??!) while AutoRx-ing Hondas for I have already did my dad's 7th gen Civic (with 86kkms on the clock) and also a few of our Honda mechs done that to their Hondas w/o any issues at all. Yours may have some other underlying issues that would require attention.

Lastly, yes, Honda timing belts have to be service with care and follow proper procedures. For shadetree mech, Helm manual is about the best you can get. All others, do not trust any backyard greasemonkies (I'm serious) for I've seen far too many half-arsed job causing further engine damage (Honda engines are interference type remember)....

 

[thooks]

My car was made in Japan, not Ohio.

More info-

This car was stolen and recovered. Manual transmission. On the transmission, someone wrote in a yellow marker "53K". I assume it was serviced at 53K miles. I dumped the oil in it at 138k miles. It was in good shape, IMO. For those that don't know, these manuals take 10W30 or 10W40. I put 5W30 in and it ran great. I dumped it 1K miles ago, put in 2 quarts of Havoline 10W40 and it's stiff to shift when cold. I think I will leave it in for the summer, tho.


My car has a few minor problems-

Passenger side front door lock needs the acuator replaced. It buzzes when activated.

The power antenae has come loose and it just stays up. PITA.


But...

All of the power windows work, locks, sunroof, cruise, A/C, etc. It runs great and I regularly take it to 5k RPMS (you know, to keep the carbon out).

I plan on sticking with 5K OCI's with Havoline 5W30 or mixing in some M1 with that. I run a variety of filters- Premium Plus Purolator, Supertech, Wix, Napa, Carquest. Probably gonna get 5 Carquest filters and be done for a while. My brother works for them.

The first timing belt was done at 90k. The sorry previous owner cheaped out and didn't get the $25 worth of seals or the water pump replaced. It started to leak shortly after I got it at 133k miles.

I had the timing belt job re-done at 137k miles, along with ALL the stuff you are supposed to do. I've also had the front rotors and pads replaced, one front wheel bearing and both axles.

Yeah, I've put almost a grand in it in 6 months, but with that $3 gas looming, I feel I can get my money out of it.

 

[brianl703]

quote:

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All of the power windows work, locks, sunroof, cruise, A/C, etc.

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I would expect that of a car only 11 years old with only 143K on it.