Who has flushed a Toyota sealed transmission

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Well have 2 Toyotas and 1 Lexus ES350. The ES is coming up on 50k and I want to exchange the ATF. Took it to the dealer and they won't do it and recommend it only be "checked" at 100k as "the new WS fluid doesn't break down like the T-IV" They said they cannot use their BG machine as the chemicals are not compatible with WS. I wish they had just told me over the phone versus after I brought the car in. Since there is no dipstick and only a fill and drain bolt I am inclined to just do drain fills on my own. Starting now and every 20k for the balance of the life of the car. I did read a post on here about it but can't find it. I am wondering if I should just drain cold and measure the old fluid and replace with the exact same volume OR follow the manual using my IR thermometer and drain-fill (over fill 1/2 qt) heat up the trans to 115F and pull the plug on the fluid level measurement tube. Has anyone done this and how well did it work?
 
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FWIW - Toyota has reversed the position on the "sealed" unit, and now includes a dipstick and drainplug on the new ones. Makes you wonder.
 

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 Originally Posted By: ChiTDI
FWIW - Toyota has reversed the position on the "sealed" unit, and now includes a dipstick and drainplug on the new ones. Makes you wonder.
I don't wonder at all....why have a fluid filled machine with no way to easily periodically check the fluid level? Then to have to train hundreds of dealer techs to work on them without major bonehead damage? At least the engine has a dipstick.
 
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I have to check the fill plug hole and see if my extractor tube goes to the bottom of the pan. Might be able to suck out the oil cold and measure as well. Then put back the same volume that came out.
 
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Is there any danger in draining the pan, then overfilling the trans, and then do the return line disconnect flush method on a sealed 05 Toyota Tacoma for example?
 
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They can use the BG machine. Just skip and flush addtives and fill it with WS. Drain/refill the pan, overfill it, and cooler line flush it, is an excellent way and there is NO danger as long as you don't run it dry. Meaning, once the fluid flow stops, shut 'er off and refill.
 
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 Originally Posted By: ChiTDI
FWIW - Toyota has reversed the position on the "sealed" unit, and now includes a dipstick and drainplug on the new ones. Makes you wonder.
Well, with a member of the Toyoda family at the helm of Toyota again instead of a accountant - go figure...
 
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Its pretty straight forward really. You could do a drain and fill but I prefer the full exchange myself. I used Redline D6 as I have heard WS has a tendancy to shear quite a bit even after 30K. And there is only "rumor" that WS is a synthetic atf. I would guess its a group III at best. I noticed an immediate improvement after flushing mine. Do yourself a favor and head to the parts counter and pick up the two crush washers that you will need prior to performing the flush. One is for the drain plug(its the larger one) and the other is for the level check plug. I am going to assume the level check procedure is the same, but check into that just to make sure as it's a car and not a truck. Amsoil makes ATL which is also a great replacement for WS.
 
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I see... Let us know how it goes. When I changed mine I was surprised to see very little gray paste(clutch material). I attribute this to the low viscosity WS(similar to the benefits of Dexron VI). Its funny how toyota recommends this fluid as a lifetime fill. What a joke!
 
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Ok thanks, I was going to do it today but it was raining here today, and I am working outside. I think I am going to try the Valvoline after there tech line assured me it is ok.
 

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 Originally Posted By: unDummy
They can use the BG machine. Just skip and flush addtives and fill it with WS.
I told that to the Lexus tech and he was afraid to do it.
 

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I did call another dealer who said they only do drain fills. They do them when the fluid is ambient temperature(cold) and measure and add back the same amount plus 1/2 quart then heat it up and follow the drain tube measurment procedure.
 
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Drain and fills are such a waste of time and fluid. Don't get me wrong, it's better than nothing, but what you need is a fluid exchange. Just take it to a trans shop. Have them hook up a t-tech and you are done. I don't see what the dealer is so "scared" of. Slealerships make me angry. In a way it's too bad you still have a warranty. I used a similar method on mine when I flushed it, adding the pans capacity plus a little more than half a quart. This aids in assuring your level is correct at temp when pulling the check plug. Fluid comes out your are good. No fluid, FAIL! Start over.
 
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 Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
Drain and fills are such a waste of time and fluid. Don't get me wrong, it's better than nothing, but what you need is a fluid exchange. Just take it to a trans shop. Have them hook up a t-tech and you are done. I don't see what the dealer is so "scared" of. Slealerships make me angry. In a way it's too bad you still have a warranty. I used a similar method on mine when I flushed it, adding the pans capacity plus a little more than half a quart. This aids in assuring your level is correct at temp when pulling the check plug. Fluid comes out your are good. No fluid, FAIL! Start over.
On my father's Toyota Previa, the transmission holds 6.0 quarts. A drain and refill removes 2.5 quarts. Three drain-and-refills will give me over 80% new fluid. A flush is probably about 90%. Three drain and refills requires 8 quarts. So for this application, doing a few drain and refills isn't wasteful. On the other hand, if you drove a GM 4T65E that had a 13 quart capacity, each drain and refill (i.e. pan evacuation) removes 6-7.5 quarts. If you did that three times, it would take you over 20 quarts! So for a GM 4T65E, a cooler line flush would make much more sense than multiple drain and refills.
 

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Well, this trans has an 11 quart capacity and you get almost 4 quarts out so 2 dain fills gets you about 60% new fluid for $60 in fluid. Which is much cheaper than a dealer flush and will get me out of warranty.
 
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The OP was inquiring about a flush. In "most" all toyota transmissions a flush is always more cost effective with the price of even WS. And especially with a 11 quart capacity which is why originally I agreed that a exchange would be appropriate. I have been doing this with toyotas. Have you? Lets not go back to the old days Critic. I was starting to actually tolerate you again.
 
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 Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
I have been doing this with toyotas. Have you? Lets not go back to the old days Critic. I was starting to actually tolerate you again.
 
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