who do the best rebuilds come from?

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I may need to replace my small block GMC V8 engine (1987) this spring and I am trying to do some homework now. I am pretty sure I will get a re manufactured engine. However I want it to work right from the get-go. Do not want to have to pull the engine out a second time.
 
go to a reliable independant engine shop to have it rebuilt stat away from the ones that will ship an engine to you...when you gop to a shop and something goes wrong they will fix it..Most give a good warrantee we give 3 yrs 36,000 miles in some cases 1 year on commercial engines...Those engines are not so expensive to rebuild
 
Outside of factory crate engines, I hear good things about Jasper engines and transmissions. Past that, I agree with above. Find and independent that knows that make of engine and have him do it, or a local machine shop.
 
In all honesty they usually do a nice job but for the cost of an engine from them it would be cheaper to have a shop do it in most cases. The shop will rebuild it and install it and warrantee it so if something goes wrong they will have to fix it...
And once in a while things do go wrong..
 
This is one of the most common engines ever built,you can get brand new GM crate motors cheap.
If it were me i wouldn't even bother with a rebuilt unit,just shop around online.

Jasper is a good rebuilder.
 
Boat engines typically have hi-perf OEM parts and you want to be sure you are not giving any of them up. Pistons, oil systems, timing sets, valve trains, & other hard parts are commonly modified over stock specsGM, ford, Chrysler, by marine Builders such as OMC, Mercrusier, ect...
 
+1 regarding Jasper. I had a rear differential (LSD) installed in a Ford Explorer Sport Trac. Unit had a 3 yr, 75K warranty. At 40K the differential started to whine. Jasper immediately replaced the unit with no questions asked. Only bad thing is the warranty on the replacement will only extend out to the balance of the 3 yr,75K period covering the original replacement. If you have a garage rebuild your motor ask them what is the warranty period/miles if they have to repair or rebuild the previous rebuild.
 
+2 on Jasper. We always got top notch stuff from them.

We only had one bad motor come in from City Motor Supply. A Ford 200. Somehow or another one of the pistons wedged itself into the cylinder sideways on the owner's way home. I'm still of the opinion that he may have abused his "new" engine.
 
I'll chip in another for Jasper. They seem to be a company dedicated to putting out a good product.

Spazdog, "abused" or not, that engine shouldn't have blown on the way home. Sure, wear metals are high during break in - from the rings and cam, but other than that, nothing should radically change. It was destined to blow from the moment it was first fired.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
I'll chip in another for Jasper. They seem to be a company dedicated to putting out a good product.

Spazdog, "abused" or not, that engine shouldn't have blown on the way home. Sure, wear metals are high during break in - from the rings and cam, but other than that, nothing should radically change. It was destined to blow from the moment it was first fired.


what if he drove it like an exotic car ? and dont new engines have thin break in oil, new or rebuilt

ive never had a new engine that wasnt from a junkyard so thats why im asking about the ACTUAL way of a new rebuilt engine, my present engine is ok AND I WANT TO KEEP IT THAT WAY but as to AXTUAL new/rebuilt/overhauled/etc engines, what if he DID "blow it up" by driving it hard?
 
Don't forget marine cams are radically different from road engines. But you should be able to find a crate marine motor.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperFast
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
I'll chip in another for Jasper. They seem to be a company dedicated to putting out a good product.

Spazdog, "abused" or not, that engine shouldn't have blown on the way home. Sure, wear metals are high during break in - from the rings and cam, but other than that, nothing should radically change. It was destined to blow from the moment it was first fired.


what if he drove it like an exotic car ? and dont new engines have thin break in oil, new or rebuilt

ive never had a new engine that wasnt from a junkyard so thats why im asking about the ACTUAL way of a new rebuilt engine, my present engine is ok AND I WANT TO KEEP IT THAT WAY but as to AXTUAL new/rebuilt/overhauled/etc engines, what if he DID "blow it up" by driving it hard?


It shouldn't matter. An engine is an engine, new or not. There is very little that separates a new engine from a used one. Sometimes factories will supply a different or special oil, but it's not thinner. People get too wrapped up in thinking that a new engine is going through "metal to metal" contact and parts mating or wearing to one an other. Simply put, there should be an oil boundary at most all times. If you've got metal to metal contact - you've got issues.
 
Originally Posted By: Spazdog
+2 on Jasper. We always got top notch stuff from them.

We only had one bad motor come in from City Motor Supply. A Ford 200. Somehow or another one of the pistons wedged itself into the cylinder sideways on the owner's way home. I'm still of the opinion that he may have abused his "new" engine.



sounds like the piston to cyl clearance was a bit much!!
 
A Jasper engine will probably work great. They've rebuilt quite a few small block Chevys.

You may also want to look at crate engines though. 350 engines are not crazy expensive brand new...probably the cheapest crate engine you can get.
 
Originally Posted By: willix
Boat engines typically have hi-perf OEM parts and you want to be sure you are not giving any of them up. Pistons, oil systems, timing sets, valve trains, & other hard parts are commonly modified over stock specsGM, ford, Chrysler, by marine Builders such as OMC, Mercrusier, ect...


^^^^ YES. This is true. Marine 350s from what I've seen, got bigger mains, stouter crank, at the minimum. It's more of a quasi-LT1 type/truck type motor than a standard 350. Intake manifold will be different than auto-- to support marine apps for torque, not revs.

Other 8's get more radical. the 318 was often (always?) stroked for marine use, a very different running engine than in a car.

I would avoid a crate, or a shipped rebuild, from any auto application. Get a marine rebuilder involved, or a crated marine, or, a stout truck-built engine. IF you do that, tho, ensure that it is set up for the proper marine-approved components as required for fire safety.

I don't know if my 350 was cammed differently, but 4800 rpm is considered the proper WOT rpm if geared and propped correctly. different than a car. So... it could very well be cammed different.
 
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