Whirlpool Gas Dryer GGW9250PW3 Repair - Excessive Dry Times

[benjamming]

Whirlpool propane dryer model GGW9250PW3 which is 15 years old is taking hours longer to dry a normal load. This has been an issue in the past and even now for a while. Historically, I've replaced both coils. Once no heat and one of them was shot. Another time because taking hours to dry a normal load. I've also replaced the front drum felt seal & the rear felt seal at different times a couple times which would let heat escape & take a long time to dry. Seals are good currently. Thermal fuse is good or there would be no heat (tested fine as well). Thermistor is good. Moisture sensor is good. Lint filter is good & new. The exhaust duct is clear all the way out of the house. There's not excessive lint built up anywhere. The laundry room doesn't get hot as it did when the felt seal failed so heat doesn't appear to be escaping anywhere.

About the only relevant part that I can see which I've not replaced is the gas valve p/n 279923 (obsolete p/n 8281914). It's about $200 though. Is that my issue? Can it be tested to know? Or, is it just time to replace the dryer?

Thoughts?

 

[Leo99]

I was in the same situation a few months ago. Did you replace/check the flame sensor?

I changed all the inexpensive parts on mine and it still wouldn't work. Flame kept going out and then relighting every few minutes. Bought a new Whirlpool dryer to replace it. I don't like the new dryer. It balls up my sheets or turns them into ropes. Miss the old dryer but it's hard to justify throwing $200 at it in the hope it fixes it. Mine was 18 years old so was an easy decision to buy new but yours is right on the bubble.

 

[Lubener]

I have gotten very good help here.

Applianceblog Repair Forums

Applianceblog Repair Forums

www.applianceblog.com

 

[MasterSolenoid]

What about the Timer, is it mechanical or digital.

Recently a neighbors Dryer wasn't drying and it was the mechanical timer (just NOT advancing).
He ordered a new one online and it's been working since.

Here are two good websites for trouble-shooting and ordering parts.

Official Appliance Parts | Order Today, Ships Today | PartSelect

With over 2,000,000 parts and thousands of Appliance DIY videos and tutorials, we’ll help you order and install the parts you need and save.

www.partselect.com

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www.appliancepartspros.com

You say,
"Lint filter is good & new. The exhaust duct is clear all the way out of the house"
Question: What about the exhaust fan blades or any ducting inside the Dryer itself ?
Lint buildup is a common cause of Dryers running to long / not drying.
Suggestion: Follow the air travel thru the whole Dryer and inspect for any lint buildup where you may have missed.
On some Dryers you have to remove the back to thoroughly clean out the lint.

 

[MasterSolenoid]

Deleted

 

[Nukeman7]

You say,
"Lint filter is good & new. The exhaust duct is clear all the way out of the house"
Question: What about the exhaust fan blades or any ducting inside the Dryer itself ?
Lint buildup is a common cause of Dryers running to long / not drying.

Also, take a close look at the blower fan attachment point to the motor or pulley. I have seen the fan attachment point crack due to age/heat/vibration and the fan assembly was freewheeling on the motor shaft at 1/2 the normal rotation speed.

 

[benjamming]

We've used the automatic cycles and the timed dry (manual timer) which bypasses the moisture sensor and that hasn't helped.
Internal ducting is good as I cleaned that when I replaced the fan housing gasket.

 

[benjamming]

The flame sensor should be good since it's actually producing a flame. I would think that would be good/bad, heat/no heat.

 

[Rand]

you need to simplify this.

its not a rocket engine.. either the air isnt exhausting freely or the heat isnt right.

You say it has flame so why would it be a gas valve?

Costco had washer dryer combos starting at 799 last week. was tempting to ditch my 10 year old pair preemptively.

 

[doitmyself]

Regarding all of the items you list in your original post, have you confirmed that they are all o.k.? The heating coils you replaced are actually o.k.? The fan blower wheel is tight on the motor shaft and turning correctly? All of the ducting actually IS clear?

To this day (I'm 65) diagnostics has always confounded me because I make assumptions and miss the obvious. I.E., one time I actually found a sock that somehow got into the ducting of a stacked unit (voodoo?)! Fan wheel might seem o.k., but with a bit of back pressure is slipping?

I would go to one of the repair sites and test everything (maybe again?), not skipping any diagnostic procedure - using a multimeter whenever possible.

Not trying to be a jerk. Just passing on my hard-knocks wisdom. I fixed our refrigerator this past spring by learning that I could very inexpensively DIY recharge the freon (Supco's Bullet Piercing Valve) after I was confident a new unit was needed. It's running excellent months later.

 

[MasterSolenoid]

Here is a past post where somebody had similar problem.

Gas dryer heat wont stay on more than 5 mins

Whirlpool wgd5560sq0 gas dryer noticed the automatic dry setting wasn't working and dryer was running 2 hrs later. Clothes were cool and damp. Unplugged dryer and tried timed mode and auto mode again. After sitting for 30 mins the burner would work for about 5 mins on both modes. I...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[benjamming]

doitmyself,

Many components don't have specs of what they should be, rather I've not been able to find them. The first link to the appliance blog forum is a new source for me so perhaps I can find some of those specs that I'm missing from there.

Yeah I agree troubleshooting shows how many assumptions we make. Anyone who says it's easy has obviously not dealt with it very much. Such as the comment about why would it be a gas valve is assuming a component is good when it's not been confirmed. Potentially it's flaky or the coil works intermittengly, types of things.

 

[Dave Hess]

you need to simplify this.

its not a rocket engine.. either the air isnt exhausting freely or the heat isnt right.

You say it has flame so why would it be a gas valve?

Costco had washer dryer combos starting at 799 last week. was tempting to ditch my 10 year old pair preemptively.

What brand for $799 ?

 

[Rand]

What brand for $799 ?

Kenmore toploader washers, kenmore electric and gas dryers.
They also had upgrades at 849 899 949 and 999
different models combos.. gas electric etc.

Some people spend 2600$ but I like the cheapest toploader that has a center agitator and actually fills up.. no water shortage here in NE ohio.
My current set was housewarming gift in 2013?? $599 for the pair of GE.. still going strong. stuff gets clean.

Its not apartment size washer but I wouldnt mind one size bigger washer for King comforter. ie 5 Cubic FT instead of 4.3

PS Not a big fan of gas dryers my in-laws caught on fire 3x now. but with no damage.. mostly their fault.

 

[Cujet]

The suggestion above for the flame sensor "might be" a valid one.

I have a Kenmore HE3 gas dryer. It was also taking forever to dry the clothes. Burner would keep shutting off, and go for long periods of time without relighting. Then the ignitor would come on, and the thing would light, for about 20 seconds and shut off again. Even with a load of wet towels.

It was the flame sensor.

I took the sensor apart, flipped over the glass (as it had a film) and re-blacked the bi-metal strip (high heat black paint). I also put a touch more tension on the strip and cleaned the contacts with 2000 grit paper, followed by solvent.

Lo and behold, I now have a hot dryer that does not short-cycle.





Disclaimer: I don't know that this is your issue, or even if you have the same type I did, mine was utterly simple, and silly easy to reassemble.

What I think happened to mine is that it was very slow to respond and the contact would remain in the wrong positions way too long.

 

[zeky]

Same thing happens to a gas stovetop flames. They get less intense over time. I recently took one apart and cleaned all the buildup off, and now the flame intensity is back to how I remember it when new. What a difference. Kettle heats up fast again. Of course you cannot really see the flame to compare on a clothes dryer.....

 

[MasterSolenoid]

benjamming - Look at those two web-sites that I linked to.
I believe if you start looking up some of your parts, it will tell you what the symptoms would be.
Very educational.

After it's fixed, let us know exactly what the problem was.
Good luck.

 

[dnewton3]

I'm having very similar issues and my first thought is flame sensor due to intermittent dropping of the flame and then right into a relight sequence. As if the permission circuit was dropped out and then immediately came back online.

 

[Dinoburner]

As some have said check the blower wheel and duct then the burner. The flame sensor operation can be checked with a multimeter. It controls power to the pick and hold coils. Also the ignitor needs to draw a specific amperage to power the coil which can be ascertained with an amp meter. The type of ignitor, flat or round have to be matched to the coil set.

 

[dnewton3]

UPDATE:
I ended up replacing my gas valve coils. As they are run in series with the other safety-circuit elements, when they started dropping out they caused the flame to drop out, appearing as though it was the flame sensor issue. There are multiple YT vids that discuss this and show the effect.

Coils replaced; problem solved; works fine now.