which synthetic oil in 2018 F-150 5.0L engine

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7,444
Location
North America
Which brand of synthetic oil 5w20 [I live in Cal.], with a excellent volatility, would be best in my 2018 F-150 5.0L engine. It has GDI and PFI fuel delivery and plasma wire arc transfer cylinder liner for 2018. I do not haul loads or pull loads, mostly a grocery getter. I use 93 octane. Thanks for any help.
I used Schaeffer 9000 5w-30 in my 5.0. Of course it was prior to the DI version. YMMV

(and yes for the boo hoo people, a single report doesn't mean anything statistically)

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Messages
21
Location
Aitkin,MN,USA
Which brand of synthetic oil 5w20 [I live in Cal.], with a excellent volatility, would be best in my 2018 F-150 5.0L engine. It has GDI and PFI fuel delivery and plasma wire arc transfer cylinder liner for 2018. I do not haul loads or pull loads, mostly a grocery getter. I use 93 octane. Thanks for any help.
I used Shell and Castrol for 60+ years. Then I read Wikipedia. I use the cheapest I can find that has API and ILSAC6 certification that matches my owners manual. ..except Supertech is not eligible. Review YouTube for oil filters..I have WIX/WIX -xp(NAPA GOLD/Platinum and Purolator One/Boss on the shelf. Oil? SVP or Napa(Valvoline) when on sale. My ride; 2005 Pontiac Montana SV6 3.5L 185000 semi abused miles .1QT every 2800 miles..lifters quiet as a mouse. Trans ok (luckily) ..serviced at..150000 miles(what I drained was as clear as WHITE VINEGAR..!!!?) . Parts Master filter (my fault), 5qts Valvoline Dexron III-H/Mercon. Now putting drain in the pan soon ala Honda. Next change probably will be ACDELCO Dexron VI..from RockAuto..$4.50?/qt.
 
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Messages
17,060
Location
Upper Midwest
no it runs about half the cost, at least on a large scale. porsche only uses it on their turbo engines whereas everything else is some form of al-si
Something must have changed since the days of my old BMW then, at the time BMW stated that the replacement Alusil blocks were much more expensive than the Nikasil coated ones they initially used.

Or maybe I'm just not remembering correctly and only remembering the total cost to BMW to re-engine those cars.
 
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Messages
118
Location
UT
Could be because of the TSB that I linked to earlier.
I don't think it was. From what I had heard the DFSO reprogramming fixed it.

That said, I am not sure why they wouldnt run 5W-30 in any 5.0 regardless. With the amount of RPM's they can spin and the the need to spin them(torque comes in higher) it seems like a no brainer to me.
 
Messages
4,379
Location
MS
it's just a really thin layer of iron, a modern approach to the plasma-sprayed "ferral" cylinders in some old porsches. cast iron sleeves are terrible for cooling and have poor durability, manufacturers have been trying to get rid of them for half a century. PTWA has a good chance of displacing outdated al-si and the famously expensive nikasil
A .080”-.150” thick wall cast iron liner provides much better durability in an aluminum block than a .002-.003” spray-on iron coating as the thick wall liner makes for a much more stable/robust cylinder wall and head gasket sealing area.
PWTA liners do likely have superior heat transfer properties though. All in all weight and materials cost are probably the main reasons for the move to PWTA style liners, not durability.
 
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Messages
4,379
Location
MS
SuperTech 5W-30 synthetic and a SuperTech filter changed following the OLM. Meets all the specs you need. Less than $20 every 10k.

Additionally, no need to run 93 octane in that truck. No benefit at all. Use regular and sleep well with extra money in your pocket.

There actually is benefit, as the 12:0:1 Gen 3 5.0 relies on knock sensors to continue to advance timing until knock is detected. The Gen 3 5.0s do make more than their rated power on 93 octane.
 
Messages
4,379
Location
MS

The ‘21 5.0 isn’t running the regular Modular/Coyote crank driven oil pump any longer. The ‘21 5.0 has a belt-driven oil pump that is similar to the 7.3 Godzilla oil pump.

I don’t know enough about it’s real world performance to speculate on Ford’s change in recommended viscosity.

The Modular/Coyote have never been particularly viscosity senstive, they typically run well and last a long time on anything from 5W-20 to 5W-50.
 
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829
Location
United States
Cast iron liners have much vastly superior durability
sleeves can be be more easily reconditioned and are easy to remove (when not cast in) but when it comes to wear nikasil is king, no question.

how PWTA performs long-term in the real world, we’ll find out
 
Messages
4,379
Location
MS
sleeves can be be more easily reconditioned and are easy to remove (when not cast in) but when it comes to wear nikasil is king, no question.

how PWTA performs long-term in the real world, we’ll find out
We already know, PWTA has been in production in the GT500 since 2011 and in the GTR somewhere around the same time.
It performs well up until a point — about 1000 rwhp in the GT500s case give a take couple hundred HP for other variables — at which point the bore begins to distort over time and you’ll begin to develop thin spots in certain sections of the cylinder wall.
Nikasil may be king when it comes to cylinder wall hardness/wear rates but you’ll never see a Nikasil liner in a 3500 HP drag car because it doesn’t provide the cylinder wall support necessary to maintain a round cylinder/ring seal.
That’s why I say a thick wall liner is king of durability, as they add substantially to AL block integrity.
 
Messages
456
Location
Gainesville, FL
There actually is benefit, as the 12:0:1 Gen 3 5.0 relies on knock sensors to continue to advance timing until knock is detected. The Gen 3 5.0s do make more than their rated power on 93 octane.
Did not know that and I’ve worked on a few of them... maybe I should read the shop manual :rolleyes:
 
Messages
2,596
Location
MN
I don't think it was. From what I had heard the DFSO reprogramming fixed it.

That said, I am not sure why they wouldnt run 5W-30 in any 5.0 regardless. With the amount of RPM's they can spin and the the need to spin them(torque comes in higher) it seems like a no brainer to me.
Not mine. I have a 2019 that is using oil. They did the TSB and now I am working with the dealer to get the engine replaced. First oil change used 4.5 qts in 5000 and then they did the TSB and it went to about 1.5 qts the next oil change. Current oil change has used about 2 qts in 3200 miles. Not good...
 
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Messages
2,596
Location
MN
There actually is benefit, as the 12:0:1 Gen 3 5.0 relies on knock sensors to continue to advance timing until knock is detected. The Gen 3 5.0s do make more than their rated power on 93 octane.
Mine pings a little on 87 octane at low speed and it shifts from 4th or 5th. You can hear it ping when it lugs the engine a little after the shift.
 
Messages
15,884
Location
N.H, U.S.A.
I was thinking of running a 5W30 in my Ford/Mazda duratec 2 litre. And I am usually a proponent of 5W20 in FORDS.
That little engine makes more power (per litre) than the truck Coyote. It's also noisy when revved - unlike my modular 2001 Bullitt that only liked 5W20; It got REAL sluggish on 5W30. BTW the Owner's Manual states that the engine will only make it's rated HP on premium Fuel; the use of premium is not required, but you may hear knocking from time to time. The use of premium fuel is recommended when towing.
 
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Messages
233
Location
Toronto
If it were mine I'd use Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. IMO ESP is the best oil XOM has to offer.
Agreed.

I’d even say that Pennzoil euro L/LX 5w30/0w30 are a good bet as well if we are comparing to ESP, but I’ve heard that ESP has the lowest NOAK of all that I’ve listed above. All three of those oils have a HTHS of 3.5 if not a little more and will be good but I don’t think you can do an extended drain interval since those three don’t make the claim like M1 EP does.

Mobil 1 EP 5w30 is a great choice as is PU 5w30. Don’t want to get into the PAO % this and GTL GRP 3 that. Go with what certifications need to be met you can’t go wrong with anything off the shelf from Walmart, AAP etc.

Also choose a good oil filter. WIX/Napa Gold, Fram Ultra, RP and Amsoil. I’d also refrain from using a low grade gasoline. I know you can pump “regular” gas but if I ran a turbo of any kind I’d be pumping 91 + octane with no ethanol. But that’s just me, all statistics and “it doesn’t matter it’s what manufacture has said” aside.
 
Messages
1,829
Location
Southwest
Make sure that the synthetic formally has the correct Ford approval during the warranty period. Otherwise, any synthetic will be better than required.

I’d say Valvoline’s everyday low price strategy (at least at Walmart) is pretty attractive. If you are willing to do the OCD BITOG “stash” thing, the springtime sales should be coming up. Keeping a year ahead in your inventory should be fine.

I would be careful to get a good filter. Any brand, but good.

In my experience, the Ford IOLM is highly accurate, but with no margin for error ( for Ford Motorcraft semi-synthetic). For a synthetic, running it down to 20% would be about right for a conscientious owner.
 
Messages
989
Location
Florida
I have the same year and engine as you. I scored some M1 truck and suv oil & RGT at tractor supply for cheap and I can say those two are noticeably quieter than any other oil I have used. I use 5w30.
 
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