Which one to buy? E90 BMW vs 2015-16 Mercedes E350

[northestPM]

I'm wanting to get into an affordable luxury car (maybe a contradiction) and my research has lead me to the 2014+ MB E-350 and a 2008-11 BMW 3 series with the I6 engine.

Which one of these would be a less costly headache of a daily driver? The BMW is smaller and 5 years older. I've seen examples of the BMW E90s with 40-60k miles listed at $9-12k and the MB E-350 with similar mileage for $17-20k

I understand that neither are as reliable and can be neglected like a Camry or Civic, but I'm good about DIYing stuff like ATF, Diff oil, coolant flushes. I do not neglect that stuff.

Many videos and posts I've seen hype these cars up as highly reliable mileage makers, but at what $$$?

 

[edyvw]

I'm wanting to get into an affordable luxury car (maybe a contradiction) and my research has lead me to the 2014+ MB E-350 and a 2008-11 BMW 3 series with the I6 engine.

Which one of these would be a less costly headache of a daily driver? The BMW is smaller and 5 years older. I've seen examples of the BMW E90s with 40-60k miles listed at $9-12k and the MB E-350 with similar mileage for $17-20k

I understand that neither are as reliable and can be neglected like a Camry or Civic, but I'm good about DIYing stuff like ATF, Diff oil, coolant flushes. I do not neglect that stuff.

Many videos and posts I've seen hype these cars up as highly reliable mileage makers, but at what $$$?

E90, IMO, by far.
There are several issues you have to watch on E90. But engine you want to go with is N52 in 328i model. N55 is really strong, but that is only 2011 in sedan 335, and N54 in 335 before is bit problematic (though darling of tuners).
So, presumably, you want 328.
Thing to watch:
1. Cooling system. At this point, just replace all hoses with coolant reservoir and Mickey Mouse flange (go aluminium, Google it). That would cost you around $300 for parts. At this point probably water pump is good to change, although on N52 it can last long time. It is electric!
2. Serpentine belt! That must be changed every 80k, but I would say change it every 60. Serpentine belt if brakes, can be sucked into engine bcs. huge harmonic balancer and simply does not allow broken belt to go anywhere but get sucked through front seal.
3. Oil filter housing gasket. It is common leak. Gasket is $37 for OE and takes an hour. If it is neglected, it will leak on serpentine belt, degrade belt, same result.
4. The valve cover gasket will leak around 100k. It's a simple DIY, but putting back the cover can test your patience.

Other than that, pay attention to which oil (LL01) and transmission is GM unless you go manual, which you will pay dearly for if it is a good car.

Mine has 148000 miles, I tracked it a lot, not now that much. It has engine modifications (3-stage intake, 335 oil cooler), M3 suspension in the back, etc., and it is daily and was more reliable than my 2015 Toyota Sienna.

E350 will be bigger and more comfortable, but it will come with more complications AND, BIG AND a rusty rear subframe, which can quickly go wrong.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Mercedes. Less likely to be on its 3rd-4th owner who couldn't afford to maintain it.

 

[northestPM]

E90, IMO, by far.
There are several issues you have to watch on E90. But engine you want to go with is N52 in 328i model. N55 is really strong, but that is only 2011 in sedan 335, and N54 in 335 before is bit problematic (though darling of tuners).
So, presumably, you want 328.
Thing to watch:
1. Cooling system. At this point, just replace all hoses with coolant reservoir and Mickey Mouse flange (go aluminium, Google it). That would cost you around $300 for parts. At this point probably water pump is good to change, although on N52 it can last long time. It is electric!
2. Serpentine belt! That must be changed every 80k, but I would say change it every 60. Serpentine belt if brakes, can be sucked into engine bcs. huge harmonic balancer and simply does not allow broken belt to go anywhere but get sucked through front seal.
3. Oil filter housing gasket. It is common leak. Gasket is $37 for OE and takes an hour. If it is neglected, it will leak on serpentine belt, degrade belt, same result.
4. The valve cover gasket will leak around 100k. It's a simple DIY, but putting back the cover can test your patience.

Other than that, pay attention to which oil (LL01) and transmission is GM unless you go manual, which you will pay dearly for if it is a good car.

Mine has 148000 miles, I tracked it a lot, not now that much. It has engine modifications (3-stage intake, 335 oil cooler), M3 suspension in the back, etc., and it is daily and was more reliable than my 2015 Toyota Sienna.

E350 will be bigger and more comfortable, but it will come with more complications AND, BIG AND a rusty rear subframe, which can quickly go wrong.

Thanks for the info. I'm ONLY looking to get a sedan. No convertibles, coupes etc

 

[northestPM]

Mercedes. Less likely to be on its 3rd-4th owner who couldn't afford to maintain it.

Plenty of lower mile e90 BMWs with one or two owners with 40-60k on them are for sale at dealers, with a markup of course. Still way cheaper than buying a new car that's halfway fun to drive.

 

[edyvw]

Mercedes. Less likely to be on its 3rd-4th owner who couldn't afford to maintain it.

Personally I would not touch that E350. That rear subframe thing is absolutely scary. Vehicle from AZ, NM, CO, TX, perhaps.

 

[edyvw]

Thanks for the info. I'm ONLY looking to get a sedan. No convertibles, coupes etc

328 is extremely stout vehicle. Also, if going xDrive it is excellent. But, check on parking when turning around if it is shuddering at low speeds.
If go xDrive, you have to change fluid every 60k, but IMO, 50k is good practice. ONLY BMW DTF1 fluid. Also, if xDrive, you will have to keep all 4 tires the same and the same wear. They are sensitive if not wearing properly, not much room for error is there. SO proper tire rotations are a must. It is permanent AWD 40/60%, with possibility of 50/50% , or 100% to the rear.
With BMW, it is good to have BMW software like INPA (free to download) so you can register or/and code battery when changing, register change of xDrive fluid (yes, it is a thing) etc. Or software like ProTool that is basically improved INPA for every day user.

 

[JimPghPA]

A Lexus 350 will last many more miles and cost a heck of a lot less during ownership. Also there more reliable.

 

[edyvw]

A Lexus 350 will last many more miles and cost a heck of a lot less during ownership. Also there more reliable.

I know. My in-laws are on a second Lexus ES350. They always ask me how are transmissions on my BMW 9well it is manual, but I had auto before) and our VW, bcs. you know, Europen vehicles. Strange, since they went through two transmission on one ES350.

 

[JimPghPA]

I know. My in-laws are on a second Lexus ES350. They always ask me how are transmissions on my BMW 9well it is manual, but I had auto before) and our VW, bcs. you know, Europen vehicles. Strange, since they went through two transmission on one ES350.

I bet they did not change the fluid and filter.

They are good reliable vehicles IF you do proper preventative maintance.

 

[edyvw]

I bet they did not change the fluid and filter.

They are good reliable vehicles IF you do proper preventative maintance.

Hmmm, what do you think European vehicles are?
1st transmission died at 90k, another at around 150. Both were replaced by Toyota dealership.

 

[JimPghPA]

Hmmm, what do you think European vehicles are?
1st transmission died at 90k, another at around 150. Both were replaced by Toyota dealership.

And I would have changed the trany fluid every 40K.

People just don't realize all the things transmission fluid does. One of the things it is used for is hydraulics that move things inside the transmission. Get enough dirt in it and something in the hydraulics does not function right, that cascades into damage of power transfer parts and its game over.

 

[edyvw]

And I would have changed the trany fluid every 40K.

Cars with crappy transmissions do need 40k change.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Plenty of lower mile e90 BMWs with one or two owners with 40-60k on them are for sale at dealers, with a markup of course. Still way cheaper than buying a new car that's halfway fun to drive.

Okay well you're looking at a car that's over 12 yrs old at a minimum. That means a lot of brittle plastic parts. If the rust issue concern you with regards to the Mercedes the. get a PPI done and perhaps you can prevent it with fluid film. I'm fact get a PPI regardless of what model you choose.

I've owned 2 E90's(330 and 335d) so I have some history with them although not as long as others. If you're okay with the wear around the interior soft touch trim and harsher ride on models with the sports package go for it. The naturally aspirated models can be really good.

 

[MCompact]

The ES350 is FWD and hardly a paragon of driving involvement.

 

[JimPghPA]

In general, vehicles with turbos are less reliable past the 100 K mile mark than normally aspirated (non turbo) engines. Duel turbos are even more prone to have problems.

And the more horse-power that is packed into the area under a hood, the higher the heat gets in general, especially if the area under the hood is small. An engine compartment crammed with power is an engine compartment designed to bake all the plastic and rubber parts within it, resulting in those parts becoming unreliable after a decade or more of use and over a 100,000 miles. And turbos do carbon up from the exhaust gases, and oil overheating in the bearings and or cooling areas. There's something good to be said regarding a low horse-power version of a vehicle that has over 100,000 miles on it compared to a high-horsepower version. Especially if that low horse-power version is normally aspirated. And low HP version of vehicles are easier on the transmission. Add in proper maintenance and there is a huge difference in long term reliability compared to a high HP version with poor preventative maintenance. These things do add up over time.

 

[MCompact]

Since 2007 every fun/track car I have purchased gas been turbocharged. My 2007 MS3 had over 158,000 miles on it when I traded it for another turbocharged car (a CPO M235i). The Mazda had a turbo replaced at @20,000 miles pursuant to a recall. Aside from that no turbo or cooling system issues- on street or track. Overall I’ve owned seven turbo cars- three of them are currently in my garage. No worries here.

 

[meep]

I think he may have meant Lexus GS 350. I absolutely loved mine, and bought it after comparing to a 2014 or so bmw 328.

Bimmer had an unreal road holding. It felt tight yet seemed to have gobs of suspension travel. The transmission and engine integration was best I’ve ever driven. But the windshield seemed close to my face, and my hands/fingers tangled real close with the stalks, cluster shield and windshield.

The GS feels heavier, feels similar to a RWD celica out of the 80s. It seemed stubborn to turn. Until I did the unthinkable and replaced the factory 18” wheels with 17s (enkei). It would not absorb bumps like the 328, but it’s turn-in and playfulness doubled. The v6 screams, the manual shift feature is elegant (too many gears to really enjoy), and I found the interior materials, fit and finish were superior. Mouse-like infotainment was clunky, but the audio quality begged for indulgence.

I bought mine used. When I bought it, the sunroof motor and 3 door lock motors were bad. Used car warranty fixed all that, and then I had no other problems with it.

-m

 

[slo town]

I'd strongly suggest the E90 over the MB. My wife and I have a 2011 328i M-Sport sedan. We've put 115K miles on it and it has been what I consider very reliable. Given your needs I strongly suggest a 328i because it's naturally aspirated and port injected. No intake valves deposits. Avoid the 335s with the turbos. Nice power but they can get costly to run.

Things to consider. The engines eventually leak oil, but thankfully not from shaft seals. The cam cover, oil pan, and oil filter housings WILL end up leaking. Oil filter housing first, then cam cover, then pan - in that order for us from, say, 80K to 105K miles. None of those repairs are an easy job for an occasional DIY'er.

Plugs and coils should be replaced every 60K max. The coils live in a harsh existence and are known to fail on occasion. It happened to me once. I R&R mine every 30K.

Also, nearly all the AC evaporators leak slightly, requiring a refrigerant recharge every 4 or 5 years.

I replaced the electric water pump and thermostat when the pan was done because those bits were right there, doing it as a preventative procedure. I always use BMW OEM parts.

Given all that I listed above.....do I consider the car truly reliable? Absolutely YES. I'd drive it anytime and anywhere without hesitation. I even drive it though the Mohave desert at 95 mph in 100+ degree weather with the AC blasting on our way to Arizona.

With your BMW versus MB thoughts, the BMW parts supply, aftermarket, tuner, etc. is a thousand times greater than for MB. Having owned both brands I like having virtually unlimited shopping options.

The E90 is a great car. Restrict your look to 328i model year '10 and '11. You want later models so you get the LCI or "facelift" cars (Life Cycle Improvement).

Hope this helps,

Scott

 

[drtyler]

I'd strongly suggest the E90 over the MB. My wife and I have a 2011 328i M-Sport sedan. We've put 115K miles on it and it has been what I consider very reliable. Given your needs I strongly suggest a 328i because it's naturally aspirated and port injected. No intake valves deposits. Avoid the 335s with the turbos. They can get costly to run.

Things to consider. The engines eventually leak oil, but thankfully not from shaft seals. The cam cover, oil pan, and oil filter housings WILL end up leaking. Oil filter housing first, then cam cover, then pan - in that order for us from, say, 80K to 105K miles. None of those repairs are slam dunk simple deal.

Plugs and coils should be replaced every 60K. The coils live in a harsh existence and are known to fail on occasion. It happened to me once.

Also, nearly all the AC evaporators leak slightly, requiring a refrigerant recharge every 4 or 5 years.

I replaced the electric water pump and thermostat when the pan was done because those bits were right there, doing it as a preventative procedure. I always use BMW OEM parts.

Given all that I listed above.....do I consider the car truly reliable? Absolutely YES. I'd drive it anytime and anywhere without hesitation. I even drive it though the Mohave desert at 95 mph in 100+ degree weather with the AC blasting on our way to Arizona.

With your BMW versus MB thoughts, the BMW parts supply, aftermarket, tuner, etc. is a thousand times greater than for MB. Having owned both brands I like having virtually unlimited shopping options.

The E90 is a great car. Restrict your look to 328i model year '10 and '11. You want later models so you get the LCI or "facelift" cars (Life Cycle Improvement).

Hope this helps,

Scott

View attachment 244036

Agree, but 2009 was also an LCI year.