Which oil for my new 1.0 Boosterjet (TGDI) engine ?

[Superflan]

Hi,

just got our new car : brand new Suzuki Vitara MY2019, 1.0 Boosterjet (111hp), Privilege trim, glossy white. I'll post a thread on it later.

It's a car on which we'll put not much miles on it and plan to keep it "forever". So, I'm keen on spending money on top-tier motor oils and alike.

When I lookup recommendations from Castrol or Motul, basically even a 10W40 A3/B4 oil is allowed. I'm OK with using that kind of viscosities, since it will not be a daily driver or short tripper. I'm basically concerned with carbon deposit on valves, and LSPI.

How to prevent carbon deposits? Should I use a valve cleaner spray on a regular basis to keep the build-up away ?
Does oil got anything to do with it ? If so, should I install an oil catch can (but should be removable whenever the car should go to the dealer to warranty work or annual service, it will go only 2 times if all goes well) to dry up the PCV product ?

Suggest whatever euro oil you would put in there for annual OCI. I can surely have those over-the-counter brands: Motul, Castrol, Total, Shell, Valvoline, Liqui Moly, Bardahl. Should I stick with ACEA A3/B4, or go API SN Plus / Dexos1 gen2, or ACEA A5... I just want the best protection for the engine and turbo, and the less valve deposit problems.

I know this topic went up a great number of times, but we've still got a little to no tech details on this engine.

 

[Linctex]

I am curious to know what the owner's manual specifies for this engine.

Y'all sure do get some interesting vehicles there on Reunion Island!

 

[Cujet]

SN+ is better for direct injec engines. However, that engine is so small for a big vehicle, I'm not at all sure any LSPI is going to happen. It will be working all the time.

Why not something like M1 10W-30EP?

As I'm sure you know, there are some interesting catch can tests on YouTube. They do catch some oil. However there is some speculation that the oil vapors clean or at least prevent the intake valves accumulating combustion byproducts. What does seem true is that the use of a quality synthetic results in fewer intake deposits. As even the synthetic vapors are less deposit prone.

I'd avoid the catch can, choose a high quality synthetic, change frequently and not worry too much about intake valve deposits. Most modern DI engines don't have this issue. Unless it's a VW or Audi with 16,000km oil change intervals on Dino.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Lubrizol, very respected in the oil industry, made some statements years ago that using lower-saps oils reduces valve deposits dramatically. If sulfur levels on Reunion Island petrol (gasoline) is to French and British standards, then you can use a low-saps oil.

 

[Superflan]

Here's the OM recommendation

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by Superflan
Here's the OM recommendation

It looks like any readily available "modern specification" oil will be suitable.

Originally Posted by Superflan
I can surely have those over-the-counter brands: Motul, Castrol, Total, Shell, Valvoline, Liqui Moly, Bardahl. Should I stick with ACEA A3/B4, or go API SN Plus / Dexos1 gen2, or ACEA A5...


Just use whatever meets the specs and is cost-effective.
Once the engine has performed/completed the "break-in period", you may switch to whichever cost-effective synthetic oil suits your tastes, if you so desire to.

 

[Superflan]

Originally Posted by Linctex
looks like any readily available "modern specification" oil will be suitable.
Just use whatever meets the specs and is cost-effective.
Once the engine has performed/completed the "break-in period", you may switch to whichever cost-effective synthetic oil suits your tastes, if you so desire to.

I met be overthinking it but what puzzles me is that it's fitted with GPF, yet they don't recommand ACEA C oils. I might go with what is really available anywhere anytime here, 5W30 C3 oils. In whatever drum I could buy, and I'll run it in my 2 others vehicles (except bikes because shared sump) and OPE.

BUT... if GPS contamination is no concern, I'll stick with A3/B4, 5w40 or 10w40

 

[Superflan]

Originally Posted by Linctex
cost-effective.

Do you mean that buying Castrol Edge or Motul 8100 isn't adding a superior protection to the engine rather than buying total, shell, or even grocery store brands that meets the specs?

 

[Cujet]

Diesel engines DPF need a lot of heat to regenerate. This requires all sorts of tricks to make that happen. Gasoline particulate filters have more heat available due to the nature of gas engines. While they do much the same thing, the manner of operation is different.

I'd not be anywhere near as concerned about the condition of the filter, at the expense of engine protection.

 

[Superflan]

Continuing the topic.

I changed oil at 7500km (was dirty, turning black), and oil and filter at 15000km (less dirty that the first oil change).
I'm confident I'd need to be changing oil at this pace, but should I also get back to 5W30 (seems to get 5% worse FE that on stock fill but maybe it's just the initial tire wear or something else that did make the car more FE at the start) ? At least to have an insight on FE.

Aside, tires (ContiEcoContactâ„¢ 5 215/55 R17) permutation done at 16000km, I hope they'll last 30000km. The front brake pads didn't last though, the wear indicator is already chiming, they will get replaced before 20000km (end of year).

At the pace I'm changing oil (would be 4 OC per year for this vehicle, or more), I'd like to install a quick drain valve (fumoto, stahlbus, what else ?). Would you recommend a brand ?

TIA

 

[UG_Passat]

If you're concerned about LSPI, then an oil that meets ILSAC GF-5/SN Plus would be a good choice.

Example: https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/8100-eco-lite-5w30 would should be available.

 

[Kamele0N]

Use either 5w40 in MB 229.5...

Or 5w30 in C3 vw504/507 MB 229.51...

 

[wemay]

This is the first time i've seen10W-40 recommended.

 

[paoester]

Reunion Island is smaller than the U.S.'s tiny Rhode Island state.

Therefore, wouldn't an all-electric vehicle (EV) , no gasoline engine, be great there? People here love EVs except they hate them for long trips of more than 200 miles. Doesn't look like you have that problem there. That island is only 30 miles wide for pete's sake.

Originally Posted by Superflan
brand new Suzuki Vitara MY2019, 1.0 Boosterjet (111hp),
"boosterjet" as a marketing name wouldn't work in this culture. Sounds too much like a cheesy sci-fi movie prop or kid's toy.
Originally Posted by Superflan
I just want the best protection for the engine and turbo, and the less valve deposit problems.... .... carbon deposit on valves, and LSPI.
Make sure a 5w-30 full syn you pick is both SN+ and dexos1 then, for maximum LSPI proven protection (2 tests, one with a GM engine, one with a Ford). Being SN+ basically means your very broad Owner's Manual requirements are met.

Turbo protection comes from the dexos1 GM turbocharger coking tests, a very good engine test to prove lower deposits inside the turbo.
Any name brand "SN+ dexos1" 5w30 will work well.

Originally Posted by Superflan
How to prevent carbon deposits? Should I use a valve cleaner spray on a regular basis to keep the build-up away ?
Yes once every 2 years.
See https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5290777/1
Also, you may still need a walnut blasting every 8 years. A borescope view would tell.

 

[PowerSurge]

Motul.

 

[mikinko]

Hello from Europe... in Slovakia Suzuki is very popular... boosterjet isn´t prone to LSPI and many people dont use special oils. I have 30 000km on it but I choose oil dexos1 gen.2 - Ravenol dxg 5w30.... you can choose some other 5W30 oil within specification, or some with higher viscosity.
On our suzuki club no people with LSPI problems.
My oil change interval is 10 000km. OCI is more important than brand of oil.
One more note for you - change fiter oil every oil change - it is best practise.

 

[Superflan]

Thanks for chiming in! Very useful info. I wonder how Suzuki dealt with LSPI.

I noticed that some countries have 10000km OCI and other have 15000, but didn't figure why, is there any difference in parts? Mine seems to be a 15000km model, but I'm not sure. I didn't change the filter first time because I had trouble unscrewing it. It was pretty much stuck. I bought a filter toolset to unscrew it with 1/2" breaker bar. I'll change filter every oil changes now according to Suzuki and mikinko recommendations.

As part of severe service, I'll continue to do oil changes at 7500km with synthetic oil. Air filters, spark plugs, auto gearbox drain and fill, every 30000km. Brake fluid each brake pad set. Coolant every 2 years. What else?

 

[mikinko]

I always use additive for petrol - in Czech rep. made VIF by Austria recipe - http://www.vif.cz/produkty/aditiva-do-benzinu/super-benzin-aditiv-1.html
It was tested and it has cleaning properties - we use it every fueling.
But direct injection = carbon deposits on intake valves due to recirculation.... nothing to do with it, only decarb later....
If your gdi has often short trips - be aware of oil diluting by petrol, I havent this problem but my car is working for long trips.

 

[mikinko]

Iam looking about your island and its part of EU? where was assembled your car? Cars in EU came from Hungary...

 

[Superflan]

It's French Overseas Territory, so part of the European Economic Area. But there's specifics. And this car can just be directly from Hungary. How do I check this, a clue inside VIN? Edit: the factory VIN tag that came with the keys says Magyar Suzuki, so I guess Hungary.

For fuel additive, I can't rely on my wife to put something additional in tank each fill-up. I'd rather throw in an injector cleaner that's been tested and approved every X.

Fuel dilution? Car mostly do: 30km fast road driving to workplace, then a whole day of door to door driving, then 30km fast road back home.