Everytime i see sludge in an engine its always a car assembled within 40 mile of detroit!is there a part supplier at fault?
Which oil cleans a sludged engine the best.
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Thank you for all who posted. Appreciated your input. I will ask Mechanic to open top of engine to check for sludge when he replaces PCV value. If any sludge, I'll have it manually cleaned out by mechanic. I'm going to do 3 month/3k oil changes with Mobil 1 for next 4 oil changes, then will switch to Mobil 1 6 month / 5k oil changes there after. Thanks again for all your input. Will provide an update / photo if sludge is found by mechanic.
If I had good reason to believe that I actually had a sludged engine, I'd give it 2K OCIs of whatever conventional I had laying around in the stash along with cheap oil filters, like the clearance Frams at Lowes, or something on closeout from Rock.
During the summer, I'd have no concerns about running thicker oils.
I've seen egines that looked pretty bad clean up nicely in just this way.
I would just go ahead and replace the PCV valve, as well as giving the associated tubing a good look for clogging and cracks.
Oil does clean, it just doesn't do so in one go.
I wouldn't waste my money on M1 until I'd established what consmption will be (and there will be some with this engine) and until I had the engine clean enough that I felt that it was okay to do a reasonable OCI.
You should also at least consider MMO, Rislone and maybe Kreen.
ARx would probably work, but it's expensive and might be no better than one of the solvent cleaners.
It certainly won't be any faster.
During the summer, I'd have no concerns about running thicker oils.
I've seen egines that looked pretty bad clean up nicely in just this way.
I would just go ahead and replace the PCV valve, as well as giving the associated tubing a good look for clogging and cracks.
Oil does clean, it just doesn't do so in one go.
I wouldn't waste my money on M1 until I'd established what consmption will be (and there will be some with this engine) and until I had the engine clean enough that I felt that it was okay to do a reasonable OCI.
You should also at least consider MMO, Rislone and maybe Kreen.
ARx would probably work, but it's expensive and might be no better than one of the solvent cleaners.
It certainly won't be any faster.
Originally Posted By: Clubber_Lang
Marvel Mystery Oil has been around for 80 years. It is good stuff. Follow the directions on your next oil change by adding 20% MMO, drain after 1500 miles and reevaluate.
You've got to read the original post. All of it. The OP does not want any kind of additives.
Marvel Mystery Oil has been around for 80 years. It is good stuff. Follow the directions on your next oil change by adding 20% MMO, drain after 1500 miles and reevaluate.
You've got to read the original post. All of it. The OP does not want any kind of additives.
Originally Posted By: GreenFocus
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: sasha
yellow pennzoil bottle every 500 miles OCI should clean it up. And a new pcv.
Why only 500 miles? Does PYB stop working after that?
The idea is to clean a little bit at a time, without overwhelming any of the components: oil, filter, screens, passages with 'dirt'. So short oci are called for, 500, 1k, 2k, to gradually clean the alleged dirty engine.
Apparently you didn't catch the sarcasm.
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: sasha
yellow pennzoil bottle every 500 miles OCI should clean it up. And a new pcv.
Why only 500 miles? Does PYB stop working after that?
The idea is to clean a little bit at a time, without overwhelming any of the components: oil, filter, screens, passages with 'dirt'. So short oci are called for, 500, 1k, 2k, to gradually clean the alleged dirty engine.
Apparently you didn't catch the sarcasm.
Originally Posted By: Kruse
You've got to read the original post. All of it. The OP does not want any kind of additives.
I completely missed that myself. In my defense I could say that I believe auto-rx is ester based, but still.
I think it's important to point out there is a difference between the ability of an oil to actually clean, and the ability of an oil to help keep things clean. For example HDEO's have excellent solvency, they are very good at keeping a lot of soot in suspension. In my opinion, the jury is still out on the ability of an HDEO to actually clean an engine.
I know the OP already has a plan of action, but if money is of no concern I would lean towards red line. While I don't know exactly what's in M1 or red line, many would associate Mobil 1 as having more PAO, and Red Line with having more POE. From what I understand, POE has pretty good cleaning properties, whereas PAO doesn't really do much cleaning. With that said, I know Red Line is expensive, so Mobil 1 is worth a try.
You've got to read the original post. All of it. The OP does not want any kind of additives.
I completely missed that myself. In my defense I could say that I believe auto-rx is ester based, but still.
I think it's important to point out there is a difference between the ability of an oil to actually clean, and the ability of an oil to help keep things clean. For example HDEO's have excellent solvency, they are very good at keeping a lot of soot in suspension. In my opinion, the jury is still out on the ability of an HDEO to actually clean an engine.
I know the OP already has a plan of action, but if money is of no concern I would lean towards red line. While I don't know exactly what's in M1 or red line, many would associate Mobil 1 as having more PAO, and Red Line with having more POE. From what I understand, POE has pretty good cleaning properties, whereas PAO doesn't really do much cleaning. With that said, I know Red Line is expensive, so Mobil 1 is worth a try.
Easy answer: The oil that cleans sludge the best is marvel mystery oil.
Easier answer: Determine if there is even a problem to start with.
Originally Posted By: Clubber_Lang
Easy answer: The oil that cleans sludge the best is marvel mystery oil.
Originally Posted By: Clubber_Lang
Easy answer: The oil that cleans sludge the best is marvel mystery oil.
red line!!!
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLPi_s5p45KGvZfDqHnY1lupx-HVUMkhqy
if it ran out drain sludged i would love to see a cut open oil filter.
if it ran out drain sludged i would love to see a cut open oil filter.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
And fix the problem that causes it, which is an ineffective PCV system. The best oil in the world will generate sludge until the design flaw that puts so much moisture and combustion contaminants into the oil is fixed. Not being a Toyota guy, I don't know what the service bulletins they issued on these engines actually say to do to address the problem, or if uprated parts that do a better job of evacuating the blow-by out of the crankcase were made available as they were on some other brands that had similar issues. If you're serious about keeping the car, I'd find out and get the specified upgrades done.
There is a redesigned valve cover and it looks like this. It has a different baffle in it and the PCV valve is metal, screws into the cover, and has a much larger orifice in the opening. Here are pics of the upgraded cover and the old cover for a 1MZ-FE, only the rear cover was redesigned. Besides the PCV problem on this engine the rear bank is directly over the exhaust manifold and heat gets trapped in the confined space towards the back of the engine.
That's great info, and EXACTLY what the OP needs to know if he intends to keep this vehicle! I'm putting your response on my watchlist so I can reference it when the topic of sludge comes up in the future.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
And fix the problem that causes it, which is an ineffective PCV system. The best oil in the world will generate sludge until the design flaw that puts so much moisture and combustion contaminants into the oil is fixed. Not being a Toyota guy, I don't know what the service bulletins they issued on these engines actually say to do to address the problem, or if uprated parts that do a better job of evacuating the blow-by out of the crankcase were made available as they were on some other brands that had similar issues. If you're serious about keeping the car, I'd find out and get the specified upgrades done.
There is a redesigned valve cover and it looks like this. It has a different baffle in it and the PCV valve is metal, screws into the cover, and has a much larger orifice in the opening. Here are pics of the upgraded cover and the old cover for a 1MZ-FE, only the rear cover was redesigned. Besides the PCV problem on this engine the rear bank is directly over the exhaust manifold and heat gets trapped in the confined space towards the back of the engine.
That's great info, and EXACTLY what the OP needs to know if he intends to keep this vehicle! I'm putting your response on my watchlist so I can reference it when the topic of sludge comes up in the future.
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