Which Brand of Extractor to Use?
- Thread starter KC Strip
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Mityvac 07201 > *
This unit not only functions as an extractor, but one can also use it to refill their unit upon cleaning the tank and filling with new fluid. This can be extremely useful in differentials and/or transfer cases.
You should be able to find one for $75 or less, shipped.
This unit not only functions as an extractor, but one can also use it to refill their unit upon cleaning the tank and filling with new fluid. This can be extremely useful in differentials and/or transfer cases.
You should be able to find one for $75 or less, shipped.
I got an extractor. Guess what? Won't work with either my Honda or Buick. Before you go to the expense make sure an extractor will work with your vehicle(s). You may already know this, but, I wish I would have looked a little more closely. On the upside, it worked great emptying my toilet tank while doing some remodeling work.
JHZR2
Staff member
I had a topsider for use on gatting engine oil out.
I used it maybe 10 times, and the pump is shot - no longer pulls oil easily or devellops more than the slightest vacuum.
I bought a cheap 12V pump from a boating supply company, and though it has seized up on me once, so long as I make sure to keep a bit of oil in the pump when I put it away, its A-OK... it runs great and pulls much faster than any other vacuum type pump. Plus, I can pull the waste oil directly into my recycling jug.
Of course, you cant use it for brake bleeding or whatnot, like you can with a mitivac.
JMH
I used it maybe 10 times, and the pump is shot - no longer pulls oil easily or devellops more than the slightest vacuum.
I bought a cheap 12V pump from a boating supply company, and though it has seized up on me once, so long as I make sure to keep a bit of oil in the pump when I put it away, its A-OK... it runs great and pulls much faster than any other vacuum type pump. Plus, I can pull the waste oil directly into my recycling jug.
Of course, you cant use it for brake bleeding or whatnot, like you can with a mitivac.
JMH
I can tell you how I found out the extractor wouldn't work. I paid $75.00 (roughly) it came in the mail and I tried to stick it down my dip stick ports and it wouldn't penetrate to the depth necessary to extract oil. Not on the 99 LaSabre or the 2005 Civic. I suggest doing some searches and read information available from the manufacturers. I was not happy about the situation, but, held on to the unit for such occasions as in my previous post and I didn't want to go through the hassel and postage of trying to return the unit.
I have the extractor sold by Griot's Gargage and love it. I use it all the time, motor oil, transmission, differentials, lawn mowers, etc. It seems slow to me, but I have no other vacum pump to compare it to so I'll just remain happy that it works everytime I need it to wihout issue.
I use a LiquidVac mainly for transmission fluid removal. Right now with the tubes that came with it they won't fit down the oil dipstick tube on my 1999 Taurus 24v. I'm going to try it on my 2001 Windstar tomorrow night. I have a few lengths of smaller diameter tubing that I'm going to try and see if that will work with the Taurus. It looks like the Mityvac 7201 and 7400 comes with really small dipstick tubing. I may buy a 7201 soon.
I tried smaller tubing, or at least something that would simulate smaller tubing. I could still not get to the depth necessary to extract engine oil. The tubes/wire or whatever I used would get to the same point and stop like it ran into a brick wall. Who knows? Maybe the people that made these vehicles thinks draining is better than extracting.
JHZR2
Staff member
mine looks very similar to this one, only without the open handle on top...
http://www.shop.com/op/~12_VOLT_OIL_CHANGE_PUMP-prod-17115788-24033730?sourceid=298
Long, thin tube on the suction side that fits anywhere, and a big diameter tube on the outlet...
Works even with very hot oil... as I always change mine hot.
JMH
P.S. If I find the exact model i have, Ill post it.
http://www.shop.com/op/~12_VOLT_OIL_CHANGE_PUMP-prod-17115788-24033730?sourceid=298
Long, thin tube on the suction side that fits anywhere, and a big diameter tube on the outlet...
Works even with very hot oil... as I always change mine hot.
JMH
P.S. If I find the exact model i have, Ill post it.
I have a one, bought in UK from a trusted well known manufacturer. I would not buy another one. In my opinion it was very slow, used all my compressor capacity and after using it 4 times it does not work now. More bother than it was worth.
Roger
Roger
Bought a hand pump for $5 on sale at Harbor Frieght.
Just a pump with two clear hoses attached. I run one end into an old antifreeze or oil jug to catch extracted oil. Works great on power steering resevoir, transmission pan and rear end on an F150.
Just a pump with two clear hoses attached. I run one end into an old antifreeze or oil jug to catch extracted oil. Works great on power steering resevoir, transmission pan and rear end on an F150.
I've been using the Topsider (blue can, labeled as the Big Boy Topsider) for two years and six oil changes. No problems, as long as you get the rubber gaskets in place.
Pros:
1) It takes about 10-15 minutes for the oil to drain, but you can use that to replace the filter, check other fluids and the battery, etc.
2) It cost $50.00 in 2004, but as of now it's cost me $8.33 per oil change. I'd spend more than that in labor if I went to a shop.
3) You don't have to jack up the car or put it on ramps, and you don't have to unfasten a splash or belly pan, which so many cars nowadays seem to have.
4) The drained oil is already in a sturdy metal can. Seal it up, take it to the recycling center, and dump the oil. All done. No worry about a plastic drain pan leaking, as my last one did, or about pouring hot black oil into other containers.
5) If you overfill the crankcase or other reservoir, you can easily suck some of the fluid out without dealing with a pouring stream of oil.
Agreed, you need to be sure your car is designed to have the oil extracted via the dipstick. The dealer should know; if it's possible, they'll do it that way, since it's cheaper and faster for them.
-- Paul W.
Pros:
1) It takes about 10-15 minutes for the oil to drain, but you can use that to replace the filter, check other fluids and the battery, etc.
2) It cost $50.00 in 2004, but as of now it's cost me $8.33 per oil change. I'd spend more than that in labor if I went to a shop.
3) You don't have to jack up the car or put it on ramps, and you don't have to unfasten a splash or belly pan, which so many cars nowadays seem to have.
4) The drained oil is already in a sturdy metal can. Seal it up, take it to the recycling center, and dump the oil. All done. No worry about a plastic drain pan leaking, as my last one did, or about pouring hot black oil into other containers.
5) If you overfill the crankcase or other reservoir, you can easily suck some of the fluid out without dealing with a pouring stream of oil.
Agreed, you need to be sure your car is designed to have the oil extracted via the dipstick. The dealer should know; if it's possible, they'll do it that way, since it's cheaper and faster for them.
-- Paul W.
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