Which Brake Rotor?

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Guess, I am either going for Centric Premium or Wagner since both are ecoated so will toss a coin and select. Thanks again guys for your help
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If youbwant a good coated rotor get the black painted centric rotors. I had them on my mazdapseed6 for 2 years and they never rusted one bit.
 
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
I know, this is probably 87th post about brakes. But I have already bought Wagner TQ Ceramic(front) and Centric Posi Ceramic(rear) pads for my 8th Gen Civic.

Debating about rotors, have 3 options. 1- Bosch(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AGCV8Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1) 2- Centric(http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2035442&cc=1432623&jsn=1) 3- Wagner (http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4795947&cc=1432623&jsn=3)

Centric is cheapest one, then Bosch and finally Wagner.

Of course, they are still cheaper than OEM(~$100 per rotor).

Which one I should pick or either one a good choice for a regular car(no commute and aggressive driving/braking? Thanks again for your advice fellow BITOGers
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What's the price difference between the Centric C-Tek and Centric Premium? I would go with Centric Premium, as I had a good experience with them on my last car
 
I bought a set of Wagner recently. Now there is snow and salt on the roads. Will be interesting to see how the coating holds up after winter. So far so good.
 
Originally Posted By: Run
I bought a set of Wagner recently. Now there is snow and salt on the roads. Will be interesting to see how the coating holds up after winter. So far so good.


Please update since a lot of people say that paint is there just for charging more
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Originally Posted By: TinyVoices
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: TinyVoices
I agree about centric rotors being best for the money. I run them on all my cars. If you bed the pads material into them correctly and don't hold the brake for a long time after a hard stop you should have no issues with them "warping" or more accurately, having uneven run out.


Note that this varies wildly by vehicle, pad selection, and usage patterns.

Bedding for pad transfer is a race only process as the only place rotors get hot enough is at the track. Street driving will quickly remove the transferred material.

Totally agree that almost all complaints about "warp" come from driver error by clamping them down while very hot and just sitting there. But the pad again has a great deal to do with this happening or not, as does the braking capacity of the vehicle.


Totally agree. It's just frustrating that people always call it warping when it's really something else like untrue rotors due to uneven wear. If you go to the track (which I do almost every weekend in the summer months) people will laugh at you for using the term "warped" when describing pulsing rotors.

AFAIK the vast majority of pulsation comes from uneven pad deposits, not runout issues or warpage.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Bedding for pad transfer is a race only process as the only place rotors get hot enough is at the track. Street driving will quickly remove the transferred material.

Believe it or not, some consumer grade pads and vehicles do recommend it, though I am far from OCD in doing it, and simply have generally never bothered. I couldn't believe it, but the G37's FSM recommends and details a bed in procedure. The Raybestos pads I used did, too. I did it when I did the fronts. I didn't bother on the rears, so that shows you how convinced I was of its necessity.
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Is there a special procedure for a Civic too? Since, I honestly never bothered with any car for bedding it
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Before anyone put me on fire, I got this car used with a lot of miles but in healthy condition
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I think either would work - Bosch was in the business of making brakes for the OEMs but I think they might have sold that off. Their QuietCast coated rotors do look interesting.

For breaking in, I've done the procedure from StopTech and it's hit or miss for a street-driven car, especially with modern NAO compounds. Easy driving with no emergency/panic stops for the first 20-30 miles of a brake's life would be better,
 
For street pads a bed in is counterproductive in my experience. Drive gently for a few hundred nares miles, then make some medium stops, and then make a few hard stops and you'll be good. Unless the pad manufacturer specifies a different procedure this is what I would do. I've done the 60-10 stop method and invariably it takes a few hundred miles after the bed in for street pads to tighten back up.
 
I drive like a gpa, so usually I am very soft/gently on brakes.

So I think, it'll ensure longer pad life
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