Which 0W20 for better high temp protection

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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
None of them. That stuff is too thin. It's a minus 40 Fahrenheit oil.
It is? Then why am I not using it? I thought a 0w-20 is a use where specified oil, like just about every viscosity on SAE J300.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
It is? Then why am I not using it? I thought a 0w-20 is a use where specified oil, like just about every viscosity on SAE J300.
OK -- let's say all the 0W-20 in the whole world was stolen overnight by aliens. All the vehicles with 0W-20 in the sump were drained out and replaced with 10W-30 by little green men with antennas. Everybody with a 0W-20 specified vehicle will now have to park their car and not drive it until the oil distillers make more. I'd even recommend disconnecting the battery in order to avoid an unintentional start with 10W-30. grin2
 
Originally Posted By: Spudislander
Which brand among the more popular 0W20 synthetics has a viscosity that should provide the best high temperature or heavy workload protection?
None. 0W-20 is meant for normal driving under all temperature conditions but not for high speeds or extreme loads. Toyota owner's manual states that: "The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the oil viscosity when the oil is at its operating temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions."
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Spudislander
Which brand among the more popular 0W20 synthetics has a viscosity that should provide the best high temperature or heavy workload protection?
None. Toyota owner's manual states that: "The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the oil viscosity when the oil is at its operating temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions."
approved It's easy enough to bump up a grade if the situation warrants. A 0W30 or 5W30 would be just fine. I noticed in some of the newer owners manuals they're allowing 5W30 in vehicles equipped with a fill cap stamped 5W20.
 
I'd bump up to 30 if I was worried. Although I'm not sure what the application is--I thought "most" truck motors, and a growing number of car engines, had coolant/engine oil heat exchangers. Well, maybe not most, and it won't stop oil from getting hot when on the piston; but all the still, helping control heat. Actually, I wonder if 10W30 if truly worried. Lower NOACK. I know little about oils but if lower NOACK means lower volatility, and if the engine is truly pumping out heat, then wouldn't a lower volatility be preferred? I noticed that Penzoil Platnium 10W30 has a pretty low NOACK.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Spudislander
Which brand among the more popular 0W20 synthetics has a viscosity that should provide the best high temperature or heavy workload protection?
None. Toyota owner's manual states that: "The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the oil viscosity when the oil is at its operating temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions."
approved It's easy enough to bump up a grade if the situation warrants. A 0W30 or 5W30 would be just fine. I noticed in some of the newer owners manuals they're allowing 5W30 in vehicles equipped with a fill cap stamped 5W20.
The 2015 Toyota 4Runner is this way. It says something like: Use 0w20 for 10k or 1 year. A 5w20 can be used if a 0w20 isnt available, but a 0w20 must be used next time. You can go up a weight if the truck is used for towing. I like the idea of going up a weight, but I wonder why they want you to go back to a 0w20 right after a 5w20 is used.
 
The HTHS of M1 AFE & EP 0w20 is 2.7, most of the others mentioned so far are 2.6.
 
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Maybe not "more popular" but Red Line 0w20 has an HTHS of 2.9, which meets the minimum HTHS spec for a 30 grade.
 
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Garak
It is? Then why am I not using it? I thought a 0w-20 is a use where specified oil, like just about every viscosity on SAE J300.
OK -- let's say all the 0W-20 in the whole world was stolen overnight by aliens. All the vehicles with 0W-20 in the sump were drained out and replaced with 10W-30 by little green men with antennas. Everybody with a 0W-20 specified vehicle will now have to park their car and not drive it until the oil distillers make more. I'd even recommend disconnecting the battery in order to avoid an unintentional start with 10W-30. grin2
Your statement is illogical.
 
Towed a 4 runner from Louisiana to here in Alabama last year with 0w20 M1EP in the sump of my hemi ram. Interstate and curvy backroads. Did not develop a tick. Highest oil temp my evic showed me was 215. Changed it at around 7000 miles. Refilled with 0w20 m1ep. Again towed a firebird about 40 miles. More Interstate and curvy back roads. Still no hemi tick. Still great mpgs. Just changed that fill at 9000 miles and sending off a sample. Running PUPP 5w20 at the moment. No difference in engine sound or mpgs so far. I think 0w20 is fine for most any vehicle that specs a 20 weight 90% of the time. I wouldn't call what I do extreme conditions. If I were towing everyday or owned a large boat I'd definitely jump it up to a 30 weight. I have a 1500 ram with the 5.7. The same 5.7 is available in the 2500 and it specs a 5w30 because it's expected a person buys a 2500 for towing. One could definitely run a 5w20 in that vehicle if they didn't plan on towing. I'm trying to imagine what extreme conditions a camry or the could experience to warrant a bump to a 30 weight over the factory spec 20 weight.
 
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QSUD 5W30 has my vote under extreme loads or conditions a very durable oil to say the least I have run it in many different types of vehicles in public safety use and had no issues when 5W20 was spec'd approved
 
Thanks for the interesting replies. I will stay with 0W20 while under warranty except if I tow a trailer. After the vehicle is out of warranty, I may change to a 0W30 as the normal fill.
 
Originally Posted By: Spudislander
Thanks for the interesting replies. I will stay with 0W20 while under warranty except if I tow a trailer. After the vehicle is out of warranty, I may change to a 0W30 as the normal fill.
I wouldn't do an oil change just to tow a trailer a couple miles. Maybe if it were a 10+ hour trip.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
OK -- let's say all the 0W-20 in the whole world was stolen overnight by aliens. All the vehicles with 0W-20 in the sump were drained out and replaced with 10W-30 by little green men with antennas. Everybody with a 0W-20 specified vehicle will now have to park their car and not drive it until the oil distillers make more.
Of course, the average person would be fine with 10w-30. And no one said that 0w-20 is perfectly acceptable for all engines under all conditions, either; you, however, get dangerously close to stating that about 10w-30, and that's certainly not the case. The 10w-30 you run is decidedly too thin for many applications, yet its cold weather performance leaves much to be desired, at least in certain climates. Try some unaided starts up here in -40 with 10w-30. It won't be a lot of fun. Or, run it in a diesel calling for a high HTHS oil, and see if an ILSAC 10w-30 is actually thick or how much is just a perception.
 
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