Where to bring BMW for transmission service?

BMW Dom

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You'll need a decent small torque wrench as the pan bolts are only 8NM for the ZF trans and 10NM for the GM trans. (we're talking 7 to 9 ft-lbs here).
Also a cooking thermometer will work for taking the fluid temp at the fill plug hole. I use an infrared thermometer on the X3 because I have the GM with metal pan (and for the MB). I use the meat thermometer on #1 girl's 2008 328i with the ZF plastic pan.
The temp isn't all that difficult or critical as it's a wide range of 30C to 50C.
Yeah, I have Bimmerlink. Also have Inpa and ista
 
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What's the technical reason why to replace the filter? I thought the magnet collected the metal shavings? Not trying to sound dumb, I just don't know exactly how the filter works. Should I replace the filter on the first drain and fill? Or after a drain and fill?
It gets dirty. Simple. Deposits etc.
change it immediately. You don’t want new fluid to dislodge some things in filter.
 
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Jack stands are fine. This is a set of Harbor Freight widowmakers, about 5 years before they were recalled: 😬

received_10153798233971884.jpg
 
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Jack stands are fine. This is a set of Harbor Freight widowmakers, about 5 years before they were recalled: 😬
I have 4 of these:


They are $200 a set, but very well made and will hold up to anything I work on ranging from cars to farm equipment. I prefer the pin style design over the locking pawl. Even if the OP bought 4 of these he would still be ahead of what the dealer wants for the service.
 
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I have 4 of these:


They are $200 a set, but very well made and will hold up to anything I work on ranging from cars to farm equipment. I prefer the pin style design over the locking pawl. Even if the OP bought 4 of these he would still be ahead of what the dealer wants for the service.
I'm using a set of Torin Big Red aluminum stands now, after turning my HF stands in for the recall.

They're the pin style as well which I prefer. I have to use blocking for the Touareg which has a lot of wheel droop.
 
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You'll need a decent small torque wrench as the pan bolts are only 8NM for the plastic pan and 10NM for metal pan. (we're talking 7 to 9 ft-lbs here).
Also a cooking thermometer will work for taking the fluid temp at the fill plug hole. I use an infrared thermometer on the X3 because I have the GM with metal pan (and for the MB). I use the meat thermometer on #1 girl's 2008 328i with the ZF plastic pan.
The temp isn't all that difficult or critical as it's a wide range of 30C to 50C.
Yes. I am the third owner of my 528iT and did the drain, fill, drain fill routine (remove pan, clean everything, install new filter, button up, fill, drive for a week or two, then do a drain and final fill). Mine has the GM transmission and I used Maxlife synthetic as the car was just over 100k miles (my indy thought it should be done but he wouldn't do it saying just take it to a transmission shop because of liability). A few of my notes:

- Always remove the fill plug before the drain plug just in case you can't get the fill one out.
- With low ground clearance, getting the new fluid in is a challenge. I bought the cheapest small garden sprayer, used it for filling. Quick and easy.
- Like CleanSump I used a infrared thermometer - when the pan got over 100 deg F, is when I "set" the level.
- Also, as he mentions the torque spec is quite low because the case is aluminum (at least it is on mine). The biggest problem I encountered was that after removing all the mounting bolts then pan had to be forcefully broken free. The original gasket had fused itself in place and I ended up spending most of my time carefully scraping it with small pieces of lexan, being careful not to gouge the aluminum.
 
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I have 4 of these:


They are $200 a set, but very well made and will hold up to anything I work on ranging from cars to farm equipment. I prefer the pin style design over the locking pawl. Even if the OP bought 4 of these he would still be ahead of what the dealer wants for the service.
These are super popular for BMW’s. Put jack pad, and it will be secured.
Esco 10498 Jack Stands, 3 Ton Capacity, Pair of 2 Stands (Pack of 2), Silver https://a.co/d/1MytXmK
 

BMW Dom

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I already have a jack and jack stands. I'm only going to jack the front of the car up, and put it up on jack stands for filter and gasket change. Then, for final fill, I'll put the car back on the ground and I'll fill it from the ground. Hopefully it'll work. If not, I'll have to come up with something else. Thanks
 
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I already have a jack and jack stands. I'm only going to jack the front of the car up, and put it up on jack stands for filter and gasket change. Then, for final fill, I'll put the car back on the ground and I'll fill it from the ground. Hopefully it'll work. If not, I'll have to come up with something else. Thanks
Filling it from the ground will be very difficult, if not impossible even on an XDrive car.
 

BMW Dom

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Also, should I use a thread sealant or a thread locker on the fill plug? I can't replace it each time
 

CleanSump

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When you did yours, did your o-ring for the filter get stuck? IF it gets stuck, do I need to pull it out, or would I be better off replacing it?
A new o-ring usually comes with a good filter/gasket kit.

And just use a new copper sealing washer on the drain plug.
 
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When you did yours, did your o-ring for the filter get stuck? IF it gets stuck, do I need to pull it out, or would I be better off replacing it?
Mine got stuck, but was easy to carefully pry out with a flat screwdriver with a rag over the end of it. You are better off replacing it, but could probably re-use it if it doesn't look damaged in any way.
A new o-ring usually comes with a good filter/gasket kit.

And just use a new copper sealing washer on the drain plug.
Don't use a copper washer, these drain/fill plugs come with a molded in rubber o-ring. Reusing it a couple times should be fine.
 

CleanSump

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Mine got stuck, but was easy to carefully pry out with a flat screwdriver with a rag over the end of it. You are better off replacing it, but could probably re-use it if it doesn't look damaged in any way.

Don't use a copper washer, these drain/fill plugs come with a molded in rubber o-ring. Reusing it a couple times should be fine.
++ I forgot. Too many vehicles over the years and they turned into one ugly GMBWPONOTA in my mind's eye.
 

BMW Dom

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Mine got stuck, but was easy to carefully pry out with a flat screwdriver with a rag over the end of it. You are better off replacing it, but could probably re-use it if it doesn't look damaged in any way.

Don't use a copper washer, these drain/fill plugs come with a molded in rubber o-ring. Reusing it a couple times should be fine.
Just to clarify, I meant if it was really stuck in the transmission. Could I just throw a new filter on?
 

BMW Dom

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Also, Jeepman, what's your opinion on the different transmission filters off of FCP? Genuine BMW, CRP, or Vaico? I feel like 67 dollars for a filter is asking too much.

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Also, Jeepman, what's your opinion on the different transmission filters off of FCP? Genuine BMW, CRP, or Vaico? I feel like 67 dollars for a filter is asking too much.

View attachment 104700
I recommend that you:
- call FCPEuro tech help line and ask them about the quality of the CRP (part of Continental) and VAICO filters
- research online for issues with both filters
Yeah, paying $67 for a filter just because it has the BMW logo is a bit much.
 
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