When will a new vehicle need to worry about sludge or sticking pistons.

[AnarchyX]

I bought my 2020 Volvo Xc60 when she had 16k miles on her. I've done two oil changes at the 6k mark, the first being Castrol synthetic and the last one pennzoil platinum.

With such frequent OCI, will I still need to eventually worry about sludge or sticking pistons, meaning I'll need to switch to the Valvoline R&P, or will I be good at least until the 100k mark I plan on keeping her, at least?

Thang in advance.

 

[Jetronic]

Sludge won't be a problem with 6k OCI, but oci doesn't affect piston ring sticking much.

 

[Cujet]

At any reasonable OCI, a high quality synthetic will not cause sludge, varnish, clog piston ring drain holes, or cause ring sticking.

 

[Propflux01]

A lot depends on the engine design itself. The Toyota sludge engines of the 2000’s come to mind. I don’t know any issues your model reengineer may have, but if there isn’t a big history, just do the 5-6k changes with a quality oil and you shouldn't have any issues.

 

[rijndael]

Yes, design definitely matters. As Prop mentioned, the 1MZ-FE was prone to it.

 

[walterjay]

If we were talking about a Hyundai 2.4 that would be a different story.

 

[CharBaby]

Yes, design definitely matters. As Prop mentioned, the 1MZ-FE was prone to it.

I had a 2001 LEXUS RX300 w/1MZFE engine and didn’t have an issue with sludge or stuck piston rings on my particular engine in 15 yrs of ownership. However, I was very aware of the problem.
I did receive from TOYOTA/LEXUS, an addendum for my owner’s manual specifically for the OCI to change from 7500 mile OCI down to 5000 mile OCI.
I would also agree with others about using good oils and timely OCI’s.

 

[D1dad]

Their customer service is top notch.

I bought my 2020 Volvo Xc60 when she had 16k miles on her. I've done two oil changes at the 6k mark, the first being Castrol synthetic and the last one pennzoil platinum.

With such frequent OCI, will I still need to eventually worry about sludge or sticking pistons, meaning I'll need to switch to the Valvoline R&P, or will I be good at least until the 100k mark I plan on keeping her, at least?

Thang in advance.

I've been driving a xc60 (2025) hertz rental around new jersey for a week. Nice ride! This one is decked out and it's making me rethink Volvo. Minus the doors not opening wide enough and cracking my head getting into it. I had an s60 and S80 years ago and you couldn't kill them. Well, actually the 80 was totaled from a rear end crash, but the s60 T5 had 370K when i traded it. I ran whatever cheap 5w30 I could find and neither one ever used any oil that needed replenished. Unless things have changed, I'm sure they have though. Volvo had their stuff together on drivetrains.

 

[tig1]

M1 oils of the proper wt. will prevent sludge, varnish, and coking rings. I do 10K OCIs for the last 47 years wth M1 and have never had those 1ssues.

 

[Glenda W.]

Totally engine dependent. One of my vehicles got stuck oil control rings using top synthetic oils at 5k oci’s and my other vehicles don’t burn a drop.

 

[Patman]

Simply put, if you’re not consuming that much oil, you likely don’t need VRP. If you start seeing the consumption increase, that’s probably when you might want to give it a try.

 

[ATex7239]

If you’re only planning on keeping it to 100K miles then I wouldn’t even worry about it. Regular OCI’s with mid level/tier oils like you have been using should get you to your goal just fine.

Maybe you’ll see some consumption towards the end of your time with it, but is that something to really concern yourself with if you’re about to get rid of it?

 

[4WD]

Lots of good reading - but zooms in from #73-#80

T

Thread 'Coked Rings & Oil Burning Reduction Experiments.'

Jul 20, 2014

Howdy,

My goal here is to have an baseline of oil burning and to attempt to reduce that oil burning by utilizing various established methods.

Test Case: 1998 Saturn SC2 rare "Red Hot". Bought with 157k miles, now has 159k miles.

Amount of Oil Burning: A consistent 1/2 Quart per 200-250 miles.

Current Oil Being Used: Pennzoil Yellow Bottle (PYB) 5w-30 + 1 bottle of LubeGard Bio-Tech.

Background: I bought this car last Fall and the owners did not know it was a rare car. It was low on oil when I bought it and had some darkened areas on the dipstick, so I knew it...

• Turk
• Replies: 141
• Forum: OTC and Third Party Oil Additives

 

[FlyingTexan]

M1 oils of the proper wt. will prevent sludge, varnish, and coking rings. I do 10K OCIs for the last 47 years wth M1 and have never had those 1ssues.

In the 70s you were running 10k OCIs?

 

[tig1]

In the 70s you were running 10k OCIs?

Yes. When I switched to M1 5-20 in 1978 I offset the $5 qt for M1 compared to 45 cents per qt with Valvoline. There was such a dramatic difference I've stuck with M1 ever since. 10K OCIs and all the other benefits.

 

[Bladecutter]

It's not 1978 anymore, and you're not driving around in that era of drivetrain and oil technology anymore.

 

[Exhaustgases]

Until the warranty runs out, and the dealer says you need a new engine.

 

[4WD]

It's not 1978 anymore, and you're not driving around in that era of drivetrain and oil technology anymore.

What era between then and now does not impress you much? To minimize what he has done is short sided at best …
That’s like bragging on a bought technology around now bcs other generations invented it - and had the intestinal fortitude to push the “norms” - then graciously share the results …

 

[Bladecutter]

bcs other generations invented it

Care to clarify what you mean here?
I have an idea, but I'd rather you confirm it.

 

[Sberry]

We had a Chrysler minivan,used a quart every tank or 2.. changed it e times in it's second hundred k, never smoked. Never replaced a plug, put a water pump and a belt on it car was junked at 220 or so.