When using Mobil 1.....

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I hear that Mobil 1 is such a clean running oil and I was wondering if you use it from when your engine is new would you ever get any build up in the engine? Would you ever need to use AutoRx? I would think not because it seems that when Mobil 1 is put in a dirty engine it slowly cleans it up. Am I correct with this thought?
 
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cali
my take on this is that mobil 1 is a good cleaner but it takes time to clean up the engine. for me, since im impatient, i dont want to go through many oil changes of mobil 1 when i have auto rx. in my other car was going to just run mobil 1 so it can be clean. but what i decided was cleans it with auto rx then use mobil 1 to keep it clean. iono my theroy in my mind seems logical (im a cheap guy =)
 
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Yes you will still need auto-rx. While synthetics are super clean compared to dino oil they still evaporate and leave behind deposits. My Dad had to replace a chain tensioner on his 2.7L Tacoma. We decided that it was a good time to replace the chain and gears seeing how you have to darn near dismantle the engine to get to the tenioners. His truck had 107,000 miles on it and they were all hard miles. The other then 2-3 oil changes the trucks entire life it has been run on M1 15W50. The engine was clean enough to pass for freshly machined parts until we got to the pan. The bottom of the pan had a film that was about as thick as honey and very very black. It flowed but flowed very slowly and it was almost the consistency of aloe vera gel. It was not abrasive feeling at all and all of the oil had been drained prior to removeing the pan. The vechile had been sitting for a few days before the pan was removed. It wiped clean with just paper towels and did not require any solvent to clean out. I would imaging that another 40,000 miles and that would have turned into something more like sludge.
 
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The only time I have ever seen sludge or deposits of any kind in an engine run exclusively on M1 (or other PAO/ester based oil) was after a coolant leak.
 
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we have an edit option but u have to do it within time. i bet u wont see sludge or something in the engine with mobil 1, but maybe some things u cannot see. i never used mobil 1 in my car so i used auto rx any way, even though i thought my engine was clean "assumption is the mother of all ______"
 
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SC
quote:
Originally posted by JohnBrowning: Yes you will still need auto-rx. While synthetics are super clean compared to dino oil they still evaporate and leave behind deposits. My Dad had to replace a chain tensioner on his 2.7L Tacoma. We decided that it was a good time to replace the chain and gears seeing how you have to darn near dismantle the engine to get to the tenioners. His truck had 107,000 miles on it and they were all hard miles. The other then 2-3 oil changes the trucks entire life it has been run on M1 15W50. The engine was clean enough to pass for freshly machined parts until we got to the pan. The bottom of the pan had a film that was about as thick as honey and very very black. It flowed but flowed very slowly and it was almost the consistency of aloe vera gel. It was not abrasive feeling at all and all of the oil had been drained prior to removeing the pan. The vechile had been sitting for a few days before the pan was removed. It wiped clean with just paper towels and did not require any solvent to clean out. I would imaging that another 40,000 miles and that would have turned into something more like sludge.
I'd be willing to bet this stuff in the bottom of the pan was the result of those few times when the truck was run on conventional oil, and that oil was pushed too far. The fact that this gook could be wiped out and had not bonded to the metal was because of the Mobil 1.
 

Chris B.

Thread starter
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3,542
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Thanks for the replys guys, good stuff! I like Mobil 1 and think it is one of the best oils ever but I will do a few UOA first to see how it is really protecting my engines and then decide to keep it or try something else! If not what is another oil that is easy to find that runs super clean? I'd like to be able to buy it at Wal-Mart and such.
 

Patman

Staff member
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quote:
Originally posted by Drstressor: We need an edit option on this board.
Not to worry, I deleted your duplicate post. I always do that when I see them, so even if you don't catch it within the 30min edit window, I can still fix it.
 
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I can not remember the test name but it measures how much of the oil boils off. As good as M1 is for it's price point it does lose an awful lot of it's lighter products. If memory serves me right it just barley pased the test. I have never seen an M1 engine sludge I have also seen this black thick liquid in M1 demonstration video. It is the video that shows them running a BMW for 100,000 or 300,000 miles on a dyno and then they do a teardown and measure parts. They had this same slime that wiped right out of the bottom of the pan but did not drain out with the rest of the oil. I have not seen that video in like 5 years I am thinking.
 
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Southern NJ
quote:
As good as M1 is for it's price point it does lose an awful lot of it's lighter products.
John, what exactly are you refering too here? [Smile]
 
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Las Vegas, NV
John, are you referring to the NOACK test? Mobil 1 5w-30 has a NOACK of about 9.2% on a test that Amsoil had done on this oil for a comparison. The Amsoil 5w-30 had 4.90%. The limit for the NOACK test for SL and GF-3 is 15%. A "dino" 5w-30 oil would most likely have a figure of close to 15%. The Mobil 1 0w-40 had 8.8% (from New Zealand Mobil Site). These numbers are not really bad but not as good as Amsoil in the more popular viscosities. The NOACK test is a test of an oils volitiliy at 250 C. I think the time limit for the test is one hour but I am not sure. I was unable to find the information in a quick check I just did on Google. [ May 09, 2003, 10:16 PM: Message edited by: Sin City ]
 
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Sin City I think you are absoulutely right on target. IF you are loseing 9%-10% of your oil to boil off then you must have some deposits. The question's are how fast will it build up and will it ever become a problem? Add to this contaminets from fualty or marginal EGR valve copeing with oil usuage/carbon problem due to poor rings and piston design, blow by and you eventualy get sludge. I am thinking that until M1 gets it NOACK volitility below 5% their are people that could see sludge and if any of you with 100,000 or more miles that have never run a flush or additive ever drop your pan you might see this substance as well. My point being that no oil is perfect especial M1 it does leave deposits behind in far greater amounts then Amsoil or Redline! We have already read reports of Toyota Siena's that seem to be able to sludge synthetic oil and N.Star motors that will burn M1 like it was wesson!
 
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Reno Nevada
John, the NOACK test has nothing to do with deposit formation except possibly in the upper cylinder area. It is just a bench test that measures the most volatile fraction of the oil. What remains after the volatile fraction evaporates is a perfectly good liquid lube, not a deposit. Oxidation resistance of a finished oil is the characteristic most relevant to sludge formation. There is some correlation between the NOACK value of a given oil and oil consumption. At least in some engines.
 
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