When to change the oil in a lawn mower?

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I have a 14 hp lawn mower and I've been pondering what to do when I put it away for the season? It gets an oil change once a year and I'm using a box of old mobil SJ 5W-30 in it. I'm wondering if it would be better to change to oil at the end of the season so good oil was sitting in it during the winter or just leave it and change it at the beginning of next summer. Would it make difference, or am I just over thinking this?
 
well, change it at the end of the season, would give it fresh oil, and you wouldn't have to worry about it at the beginning, also refilling with fresh oil, removes contaminants and all that would settle during the storage, also removes acids and all. though some people even go further and drain it and leave it drained till the next season, which isn't a good idea if you don't remember you drained it out......
 
quote:

Raven18940:

..... I'm wondering if it would be better to change to oil at the end of the season so good oil was sitting in it during the winter or just leave it and change it at the beginning of next summer. ....

So, you're wondering if you should let the acids, moisture, and contaminants in there over the winter or fresh oil?

Putting it that way sort of answers your question, doesn't it?


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Raven18940, if you are at BITOG, of course you are over-thinking this.
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Yes, change the oil at the end of the season and get it ready for next year ahead of time.

I do all the end-of-the-year maintenance at once. I run the mower out of fuel so it is dry, drain the oil and then flip it onto its side so I can take off the blade and sharpen it. It's easier this way.

After sharpening, I re-attach the blade, fill with new oil and then add a few ounces of gas with fuel stabilizer. Run for about 10 minutes than shove it into the back of the garage.
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--- Bror Jace
 
quote:

Bror Jace:

.... and then add a few ounces of gas with fuel stabilizer. Run for about 10 minutes than shove it into the back of the garage. ....

I full the tank after adding a goodly dose of Chevron Techron.

My concern about leaving the tank low over the winter is condensate.

And I've found Techron, though not sold for the purpose, makes a pretty decent fuel stabilizer.


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So I'm not crazy (or at least not in present company). Maybe I'll drain it out and leave a post-it note on it. Nah, that just sounds like it'll be trouble. Well, I'll be changing it before storage then.
 
Isn't leaving it drained a rust/corrosion issue. With just air in the crankcase of a mower, there has got to be a bigger problem with moisture as humidity and temperature changes cause condensation.

Personally I change it in the spring to get all the moisture and anything that might build up in there over the storage in the winter. If I were to ever change it before the winter, I would be changing it in the spring too. Mowers usually run HOT and there shouldn't be a very large amount of acids in there anyway and condensation would be gone as long as you keep the oil system sealed up.
 
quote:

MN Driver:

.... Personally I change it in the spring to get all the moisture and anything that might build up in there over the storage in the winter. ....

If you use an oil that's relatively polar (sticks to the metal) with anti-corrosion additives all you get in the spring is a little condensate.

A quick half-hour of running and that evaporates.

The problem in the fall is that along with the condensates, you've got an oil that has combustion byproducts and dirt in it. It's lost some of its additives. That's not the best recipe for long-term storage.


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With only 25 hours on the oil it should be fine in the additive department, if lawnmower's had oil filters we would probably be running the oil 50-100 hours. The only real issue with a 25 hour change is the insolubles which shouldn't pose any issues with long-term storage, the oil should have a good enough additive package to withstand 25 hours and some storage.
 
Raven18940, the manual for my Honda says the same thing. It has an interval of 100 hours ... then says to change the filter every other time.
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This is just silly. I use Supertech filters which cost me $2. I dump the filter every time I change my oil ... about every 70 hours or so. At least that way the oil is clean after each change. There's something about that I like.
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--- Bror Jace
 
My mower does have a filter, and it says to change the oil every 50 hours and filter every 100. Still, 50 hours is just about a whole season.
 
Bror,
Which Honda engine do you have and which ST filter are you using? $14 for a genuine Honda filter at the Simplicity dealer is a crime! I'm not sure that an uber-filter on my 16hp GXV530 is very critical. I believe it has a low pressure oiling system so most of the oil bypasses the filter.
Thanks!
Mark in NC (on weekends)
 
I went to NAPA and they crossed my tractor's filter over with the most common Honda 4-cylinder car filter ... most are #1334 if you use NAPA or (I think) #1356 if you use Fram or Supertech.

They are just a bit bigger than the Tractor filter.

--- Bror Jace
 
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I knew not to trust my memory. The Fram/Supertech number is 3593A, I think. It's definetly not #1356 which is the Wix filter for my Nissan SpecV.
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--- Bror Jace
 
The oil cools your whole engine and @ 14 HP it is a fairly large machine & expensive to replace. I have a 15 year-old Toro ride-on and I expect another 15 years. I change oil @ 4th of July and end of season It is a 5 minute job.
 
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