When to change my oil?

[Shel_B]

I'm on a 6-month / 5,000-mile schedule right now. The last change was a bit less than 4,000 miles at 6-months. If/when I start making longer highway trips, I'll most likely extend the mileage. But with all the short trips I do now, I want the extra protection of staying within the capabilities of the oil.

 

[doublebase]

That is alot of things to replace. On the Civic, only thing that I had to do was AC, lower control arms, and wheel hub (1). Not bad in 240k, 12 years. On the Accord, rear calipers and pads/rotors. And wheel hub (1).

You know what’s funny? At the time I thought it was great, but others have pointed out to me the same...that their Honda’s didn’t need nearly as much.

I have a 2008 Honda CR-V that we kept In the family now since 2012, it now has 160,000 miles on it. Not one single out of pocket repair. Wait, no I think I did struts on it last year. Other than that just tires, fluid changes and brakes. Boring vehicle, kind of loud and tiny sounding. Interior is kind of cheap and plastic, but talk about a reliable vehicle. Unbelievable. Oil changes every 7,500 for the first five years we owned it on conventional. Changed it up to 5,000 miles with synthetic after that. Figured...synthetic is cheap and I didn’t want to keep using the manufacturer recommended interval anymore.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

Change your oil often and when it's hot.

It can also be changed when it is cold, lukewarm or anywhere in between.

 

[atikovi]

It can also be changed when it is cold, lukewarm or anywhere in between.

Well sure if you want to let it drain for 8 hours so all the thick cold oil runs out.

 

[SugarMouth]

OCI at 5k with $3/qt oil (Kirkland) here on my truck. Merc gets Euro oil at 5k OCI as well.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

Well sure if you want to let it drain for 8 hours so all the thick cold oil runs out.

You get the majority out, you'll never get it all out, just most.

 

[Marcozi]

Yep-and if he follows the OLM down to 10 or 20 per-cent he will be fine.

I would do a used oil analysis at the next oil+filter change. Send the sample to Blockstone Labs, and have the lab test the oil to see how many miles are left in the oil. Basic oil analysis is $28, add $10 for the miles remaining tests. As for oil, check the specifications in the owner's manual. It should list the specification that the oil needs to meet. As an example, my BMW says it needs a BMW LL-17FE (fuel efficient) oil. Perosnally, I run nothing but fully synthetic oil. JMVHO

 

[Jpc1623]

I used OLM for the first time last year, went to 25%@5600 miles. I than had the oil tested…, it looked very good. I’ll go to 15-20% next time. I use to do 3000 miles years and years ago, then went to 10000 miles. I like the OLM, just use the oil the car is spec’d for.

 

[ultraviolet]

You get the majority out, you'll never get it all out, just most.

you will, however, get a lot more of the oil out if you change it while hot, than you will if you attempt the same while it's cold.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

you will, however, get a lot more of the oil out if you change it while hot, than you will if you attempt the same while it's cold.

To be fair, I've always heard the same said, just that, in practice and regular execution, you can also change it cold, lukewarm, in between..

How much more, really, do you get out changing it fully warmed? You still have oil up in the heads that hasnt drained down yet, unless it drains down instantly or that is an old wives tale. Sort of like, does oil level on the dipstick really change when it is hot. I have had cars where it seems to, and cars it seems to be the same. We are speaking generally here.

 

[ultraviolet]

To be fair, I've always heard the same said, just that, in practice and regular execution, you can also change it cold, lukewarm, in between..

How much more, really, do you get out changing it fully warmed? You still have oil up in the heads that hasnt drained down yet, unless it drains down instantly or that is an old wives tale. Sort of like, does oil level on the dipstick really change when it is hot. I have had cars where it seems to, and cars it seems to be the same. We are speaking generally here.

it does drain down a lot faster when it's hot. i used to change my oil regardless of temperature, then i got some blackstone uoa kits and they clearly state that you should get your sample with the oil hot. when i started collecting samples, i noticed how much faster the oil drains out while hot, and how after 15 minutes of draining there's hardly more than a drip coming from the drain hole. with cold oil, there'll still be a thin stream coming out even after a half hour... it's not even an exaggeration to say it'll take hours to '"fully" drain.

if you've ever topped up your oil from a bottle that was sitting in your car in the cold, consider how long it takes to pour "every last bit" of the bottle into the engine, and how there's always a frustrating amount still left in the bottle anyway. it's the same with draining the sump.

 

[ZZman]

I agree with many others that 10% is a good number

 

[CheezWhiz]

no one wears out engines anymore. none of this matters. it's all pointless. and we're all gonna die anyway.

 

[Gene K]

I would never let the OLM go to 0%. If you are worried about warranty at least try for 10% so if something happens and you cant get to it right away you dont risk going over and no one can accuse you of missing a maint item. If it was me with a new truck and a first year motor I would be hedging my bets and going 5k changes at least until their is some higher mileage history with the motors to indicate that theres no early wear problems that cause Ford to change their recommendations.
And as an aside How do you like the truck so far, do you do any heavy towing with it.

Ford allows 2 weeks or 500 mi after 0%. It's in that book that comes with the vehicle people don't read.

Those engines are not hard on oil. Ford purposely built those engines old school for max reliability in an industrial setting. They are not hard on the oil. I have personally always started planning an oil change around 10% which gives me a month plus (including the 500 mi / 2 week overage) to get it done.

 

[Spkrdctr]

My first oil change was at 40%. I'm at 45% now. I do my own oil changes. I mostly drive it around town and pull my 24' boat about once a month with a longer trip (1000miles) twice a year. I pull my skiff weekly. The engine has plenty of power, for what I do. I got out of a diesel. It doesn't have diesel power, I knew that going in. My diesel 6.7 would pull my bigger boat 70 mph on my trips without having to downshift. The 7.3 pulls it fine but the transmission downshifts for any hill. Mileage- diesel 11-12 gas 9-10. Thanks for your replies

Off topic, but the #1 thing you need to REALLY stay on top of is the transmission fluid. If it is sealed and you have no way to checked it (I don't know) then use the "severe service" change periods. Trans oil is cheap and it is not replaced very often BUT makes a HUGE difference in transmission life. I would say every 40 or 50 thousand miles. Plus if you have a nice trans cooler on it that helps too. Good Luck!

 

[Shel_B]

Off topic, but the #1 thing you need to REALLY stay on top of is the transmission fluid. If it is sealed and you have no way to checked it (I don't know) then use the "severe service" change periods. Trans oil is cheap and it is not replaced very often BUT makes a HUGE difference in transmission life. I would say every 40 or 50 thousand miles. Plus if you have a nice trans cooler on it that helps too. Good Luck!

I'll second the idea of changing the trans fluid. "Sealed" transmissions and the manufacturers touting lifetime transmission fluid have given many the impression that fluid no longer needs to be changed. However, taking a deep dive into the owner's manual or the maintenance requirements often leads to the discovery that under certain situations (read most or many situations) that fluid is recommended to be changed at intervals of
around 50,000 - 60,000 miles.

Unfortunately, for many owners that change is complex, time-consuming, or expensive (yes, if you know what you're doing, have the right tools and some experience, it may not be all of those things). There are a lot of folks that just fall victim to the marketing mavens and their hype about not needing to change fluid very often or at all. And when the cost of a professional change is added to the equation (in my area a complete change, drain, flush ... call it what you will ... done by a dealer or competent transmission shop is about $400.00 for a Toyota Camry), it's easy to pass on the service.

 

[Gene K]

Off topic, but the #1 thing you need to REALLY stay on top of is the transmission fluid. If it is sealed and you have no way to checked it (I don't know) then use the "severe service" change periods. Trans oil is cheap and it is not replaced very often BUT makes a HUGE difference in transmission life. I would say every 40 or 50 thousand miles. Plus if you have a nice trans cooler on it that helps too. Good Luck!

If the 10R140 is like the 10R80 it has a small screw out dipstick on the passenger side. You access it from underneath.

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

no one wears out engines anymore. none of this matters. it's all pointless. and we're all gonna die anyway.

LOL

Not "worn out" but damaged, wait, Ford 3-valve 5.4L Timing chains, lifters, etc. Yeah, people are "wearing" engines out.


All anyone needs to do is go talk to 5 shops today about how many engines they rebuild/replace in MODERN vehicles and they will all tell you there ARE serious problems with engines today. Most of it revolves around 7-10k+ mile oil changes and short trips (what most think is "normal" driving.)

 

[Legal Eagles]

I change my oil every 5000 miles in every car I own. Its super easy to track (40k, 45K, 50K, etc)

This... I am all about easy...

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

no one wears out engines anymore. none of this matters. it's all pointless. and we're all gonna die anyway.

I used to think that too but now I'm 78! But still changing my own oil.