Wheel stuck to hub

Joined
Sep 18, 2018
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464
Location
Kern Co. California
Hello, I was rotating the tires on my wifes '18 Ford Flex this weekend, and the tires/wheels where stuck to the hub. After some time, I was finally able to get them off. Looks like a little corrosion was present on the hub itself where the wheel centers itself on. I took a plastic stiff bristled brush and cleaned off what I could. Still not happy with how it seated back on. I ordered some fiber "wire" brushes to clean off the hub more, but my question is what should I put on this to keep this from happening again that wont fling all over when driving? Regular anti seize?

I live in the desert and the car gets washed about every other week. So it does not see tons of moisture...

Thank you
 
I like to use fluid film on the hub. Anti seize will work as well.

Had a hard time on a rear wheel on a 2016 Sorento. Backed off the wheel bolts, then back on finger tight, and then backed off a quarter turn. Took it for some aggressive turns and the wheel loosened. Soon as I heard it loosen, stopped, used my star wrench to retighten and back to my garage to finish up using a proper torque wrench.
 
I also use fluid film. How long are you going between rotations? I live in salt heaven and haven't had a wheel stick doing 7k miles rotations.
 
I've used a thin film of Molykote 3452 for many years and it does not wash out nor does it migrate (fling) away like thinner anti seize. I use the same grease on many things as it is a fluorosilicone grease and is both non-reactive and biologically safe. Kind of a poor man's Krytox. You can also apply this grease to the hub face underneath the rotor.

Definitely use a wire brush and get down to bare metal before reassembling the wheel. Also make sure the contact points on the back of the wheel are clean.
 
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I use the South Main Auto technique (Not exclusive or even his creation) of cleaning the hub surface AND the inside of the wheel where it contacts the hub with the scrub wheel on my die grinder. Then I spray with Fluid Film.

You can use the wire wheel I’d suppose. Anything is better than just sticking it back on all corroded. 😎
 
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I use the South Main Auto technique (Not exclusive or even his creation) of cleaning the hub surface AND the inside of the wheel where it contacts the hub with the scrub wheel on my die grinder. Then I spray with Fluid Film.

You can use the wire wheel I’d suppose. Anything is better than just sticking it back on all corroded. 😎
I found I had to do this once with some sand paper and a wire brush on the drill with the wheels on the focus when I first got it as I had to put a 4x4 across the wheel rim and beat on them with a sledge hammer to get them off.... After that I always put some grease, fluid film, motor oil from the squirt can, whatever is oily and available and they always come off easy now.
 
I've been promoting this stuff for several years. I use it instead of M77 molykote. It is very tenacious, extremely water washoff resistant, and prevents rust really well in my salt laden area. Just a paper thin coat works on metal to metal brakes, hubs, etc..:

Pic of my protected hub:
IMG_2526.JPG
 
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My parents old '13 escape and their current '18 escape do this terribly. It doesn't matter what I put on , I have to use a wood block and sledge hammer to remove the wheels every fall when I go to put on the winter tires.
 
My parents old '13 escape and their current '18 escape do this terribly. It doesn't matter what I put on , I have to use a wood block and sledge hammer to remove the wheels every fall when I go to put on the winter tires.

This is what I am afraid of... The weird thing is the car has approx. 38k miles on it and I have rotated tires every 7500ish miles with out issue. Not sure why all the sudden it felt like this was the time to corrode. Either way, I did not have fun trying to pry these painted "appearance package" wheels off the hubs, so if I can prevent it, I want to! Thank you all for the feedback/help.
 
I've been promoting this stuff for several years. I use it instead of M77 molykote. It is very tenacious, extremely water washoff resistant, and prevents rust really well in my salt laden area. Just a paper thin coat works on metal to metal brakes, hubs, etc..:

Pic of my protected hub:
View attachment 56087
Very impressive how little rust is on the hub.

I use Permatex anti-seize, which also works well.
 
Here at BMW in the rust belt, we use copper spray on the hub after cleaning, then a thin coat of lithium spray grease on the back side of the rim where it sits on the hub. Best combo we have found so far. Silver anti seize does not work nearly as well.
 
I've never had a wheel stick to a hub once some grease, lube or antiseize was put on the hub face.

I have dealt with some that were seemingly welded into place.

In the past I will admit I haven't been as thorough as Eric O from SMA in terms of cleaning up the mating surfaces. Still aren't. That guy is amazing.

Ever watch some of the west coast auto channels like Homie Hektor? He'll be working on an 12yr/old Civic where every nut, bolt, mating surface comes right apart and looks brand spanking new. That's gotta be so nice.
 
I've been using the silver antiseize, but I do frequent tire rotations, a couple times at year at least, so thankfully it works ok for me. I haven't had any stuck once I put a bit of antiseize on, just took a little to fix the problem.
 
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My parents old '13 escape and their current '18 escape do this terribly. It doesn't matter what I put on , I have to use a wood block and sledge hammer to remove the wheels every fall when I go to put on the winter tires.
Sand the centering surface of the wheels out a bit next time. Once I did that it hasn't been an issue as I guess there's some room for the lube to sit between the wheel and hub and prevent corrosion from re-occurring.
I got caught with a nail in the tire with the wheels stuck on like that, and it was a PITA, I had to pump up the tire real fast, then drive into some pot holes with a deflating tire with loose lugs to get the wheel to budge abit...
 
Most "tyre shops" here kick the tyre opposite the brake caliper until the tyre is dislodged. Believe it is a local tradition, left from olden times(think we stole it from the Ancient Greeks). It can even get entertaining if it comes back to hit the guy.
They seem more hesitant on the expensive stuff, but a cheap car even gets a an extra step for good measure.
Have not seen any damage as a result... but just to be safe...
Disclaimer: Try at own risk and wearing full protective gear :)
On a separate note, think of doing my own tyre change this season.
 
My focus wheels seized on the hub bad - doesn't help that I'm still on the factory rotors at over 200K miles. I had to go to Discount Tires so they can rotate the wheels and when I got home I used a very light layer of permatex anti-seize on the rotor hub.
 
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