What's the best way to crimp automotive wires?

[Cujet]

The Raychem environmental splice is the proper answer.

 

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by BrianF

I used crimps with the heat shrink on them and then have another sleeve of heat shrink tubing over everything.

Yep ! :-) https://www.harborfreight.com/30-pack-watertight-heat-shrink-butt-connectors-66729.html

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

The best.... environmental splices... $$$$ like Cujet pointed out. Super high quality and COMPACT. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/splicesAWG20-16.php https://www.skygeek.com/dmc-tools-g...vhN-L3wIVS5yzCh34MgzCEAQYASABEgKmXvD_BwE I would also use heat-shrink butt-connectors, but better quality than HF along with a proper crimper. https://theelectricaldepot.com/heat...s?zenid=d026fe2515bde694f089777aedce8848 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-El...Blue-Yellow-24-Pack-BM3033-000/205878594 https://theelectricaldepot.com/tool...mpa-seal-ratcheting-crimp-tool-br-1-each

 

[3800Fan]

Junkyard had the correct harness.

 

[3800Fan]

Great. Now my headlight relay is acting up when I hit the unlock button and my RAP relay was making a clicking noise when trying to activate the power seats. The power seat fuse looks damaged and the ohms were jumping back and forth. Gotta check to see if the dealership carries another connector I had to splice after severing it lowering the engine in late at night. It runs between the battery circuit and the fuse box from what I can tell and my lock actuator has been bad for years but I didnt think failing to replace it would csise the unlock button to turn my headlights on and off. Car sat for a year and a seal is bad letting moisture build up in the cabin so let's hope fixing all this crap will be the last of it. Good news is the harness worked, no codes and it doesnt stumble at low rpms anymore.

 

[3800Fan]

The fuse I was speaking of is actually a plug in circuit breaker which has fluctuating resistance. Aside from looking like it got shorted the thin wire that bypasses what Im guessing is the incoming power looks frayed.

 

[3800Fan]

Door lock actuator is also exhibiting low/fluctuating ohm readings

 

[StevieC]

I prefer to solder and then use heat-shrink tube over top of the soldered connection but I understand your frustration with soldering and sometimes soldering isn't possible in certain spots, so second best would be the crimp connectors with the heat shrink outer jacket that you can heat and seal the connection from moisture and will also help to keep the connection should the wire come loose from the connector.

 

[3800Fan]

Was not thinking in terms of only fuses having high resistance but I think I found the issue. One of underhood fuses blew, most likely after a fusebox wire with a bare spot made contact with my wrench while I was removing the belt. Crossing my fingers.

 

[3800Fan]

It was the fuse. Scared me for a sec

 

[Danomite]

Originally Posted by Diesel12

I work for General Motors in the assembly plant. Whenever we do wire repairs we use solder and heatshrink with the special sealant inside. Solder is strong and the heatshrink makes it waterproof.

Heatshrink makes it water resistant . No way will it be waterproof .

 

[George Bynum]

While I don't believe anything, ANYTHING, will ever be "proof", the dual layer heat shrink ("marine") products with the adhesive liner come pretty darn close. The wire insulation bond to the adhesive will be the weak point. With PVC I've had excellent results. With a nylon jacketed conductor, I'd worry far more about water under a cracked jacket than through the adhesive.

 

[StevieC]

I've used standard heat-shrink over a soldered connection for pond pump wiring and it's submerged in water and has been like that for 10 years now. No issues. The key is to doing it properly.