I just got my new engine in but I had to splice a connector from the old engine onto the new one despite it being the same motor due to fitment.
This connector carries wires from the CKS, CPS, and ICM. The wires are tightly crimped and no bare metal is exposed but shortly after firing it up I'm getting two codes for the ICM voltage and a Cylinder 3 misfire. Do I need to use heat shrink connectors or is there a certain way to go about twisting the wires together to get a better connection?
What's the best way to crimp automotive wires?
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Is there room to solder?
Crimping is faster. Get crimps compatible with your choice of crimp tool. Do not try to wing-it with pliers to make the crimp. If you have room to get a crimp tool in, you have even more room to solder.
Twisting wires together, necessitates soldering (if you have the skill) and covering the solder joint with heatshrink tubing, or even better glue-lined heatshrink tubing. This is a more durable and long lasting connection than crimping. However there are crimps with heatshrink liners over them which will at least seal out moisture and slow down oxidation if used properly. Their service life is not as long as soldering, but in a typical environment, "good enough".
Beyond these basics, we'd need a lot more detail and probably pictures of *everything* to know exactly what you're wanting to do, but if you can solder, and since this is not a production environment where a few minutes difference matters, I'd solder and heatshrink it.
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Crimps. Simple and secure.
I have a "surplus" of environmental splices that I've been using for years - hands down the best way, but expensive.
I used crimps with the heat shrink on them and then have another sleeve of heat shrink tubing over everything.
For an inline splice......Solder & heat shrink. I never solder terminals on small gauge stuff, It's just asking for a broken wire right where the solder ends.
With that being said, One should never modify a harness when doing a engine swap.....Change whatever needs to changed to keep the vehicle the same as before!
What DTC's is it setting?
Get the good crimp connectors with shrink tube as part of the connector. Get a good pair of crimpers, not the ones from the dollar store. If the connectors have a split barrel make sure to put that side in the round part of the tool.
I have soldered connections but according to some people that's a nono.
I would ignore the P0303 for now.....
P0350.....The PCM detects a fault in the IC timing control circuit.
P1350.....The PCM detects a fault in the IC timing signal circuit.
During engine cranking and certain low RPM engine running conditions, the IC module controls the ignition timing at a fixed 10 degree advance. This is called bypass mode. When the PCM receives the 3X low resolution engine speed signal from the IC module, 5 volts is applied to the IC timing signal circuit from the PCM. This signals the IC module to allow the IC timing by the PCM. The PCM sends spark timing signals to the IC module on the IC timing control circuit. The PCM monitors the IC timing signal circuit for errors.
Pin A at the ICM is "IC timing control" Wire color White
Pin B at the ICM is "IC timing signal" Wire Tan with a Black trace.
It's been my experience that an issue with EITHER of the above circuits can cause BOTH of these codes, Lets start with the easiest mistake to make with GM ICM wiring......
There are 2 White wires, One for the IC timing control & one for driving a Tachometer if equipped/needed., Of coarse a car as new as yours has the Tach signal transmitted over CAN-bus. While it's not used....The Tach wire will be dead-headed into the ICM to Engine harness connector (X110).
I'm curious if you got the 2 white wires crossed-up??
When I ordered a repair harness for the MAF on my Fusion, it came with no butt connectors but with heat shrink tubing. My brother, a mechanic, suggested like chris142 suggested; which makes me feel it's a perfectly acceptable repair. However, I am personally of the same mind as clinebarger, and so I stripped, twisted, and soldered the wires together. When I heated the shrink tubing, I found out as it shrunk there was some kind of waterproof sealant inside the heatshrink (something new to me). This made me feel much better about the solder/heatshrink and I would make sure you get something similar. Hopefully somebody who uses this kind of shrink often can tell you what it's called. Now that I know it exists, I would not use non-sealant-filled heatshrink outside of the car cabin for fear of corrosion under the shrink tube, especially on an engine harness.
Twisting wires together, and taping over them should be considered temporary at best, and an impending issue if left for any amount of time.
Get some DeOxit D5 to put on the connector and its receptacle's conductive surfaces, and if you can't solder, and Do not have a good quality crimper, then find someone who can/ does, as you are in for a fustercluck of overwhelming frustration simply doing the twistotape of wiring, which will endure, until you do it properly.
The best crimps are Ancor double crimp connectors. But requires the proper connector and crimper.
Liquid tape applied at the ends of the crimp will keep away things that can corrosion.
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Crimps. Simple and secure.
I have a "surplus" of environmental splices that I've been using for years - hands down the best way, but expensive.
Originally Posted by Diesel12
I work for General Motors in the assembly plant. Whenever we do wire repairs we use solder and heatshrink with the special sealant inside. Solder is strong and the heatshrink makes it waterproof. 
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Originally Posted by clinebarger
I would ignore the P0303 for now.....
P0350.....The PCM detects a fault in the IC timing control circuit.
P1350.....The PCM detects a fault in the IC timing signal circuit.
During engine cranking and certain low RPM engine running conditions, the IC module controls the ignition timing at a fixed 10 degree advance. This is called bypass mode. When the PCM receives the 3X low resolution engine speed signal from the IC module, 5 volts is applied to the IC timing signal circuit from the PCM. This signals the IC module to allow the IC timing by the PCM. The PCM sends spark timing signals to the IC module on the IC timing control circuit. The PCM monitors the IC timing signal circuit for errors.
Pin A at the ICM is "IC timing control" Wire color White
Pin B at the ICM is "IC timing signal" Wire Tan with a Black trace.
It's been my experience that an issue with EITHER of the above circuits can cause BOTH of these codes, Lets start with the easiest mistake to make with GM ICM wiring......
There are 2 White wires, One for the IC timing control & one for driving a Tachometer if equipped/needed., Of coarse a car as new as yours has the Tach signal transmitted over CAN-bus. While it's not used....The Tach wire will be dead-headed into the ICM to Engine harness connector (X110).
I'm curious if you got the 2 white wires crossed-up??
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