Can anyone tell me whats the best oil to use in this le baron? I was told by a member that these particular engines were sludge monsters. am going to treat it with auto rx first. engine has been replaced prior to my getting the car, so act. milage unknown. Thanks, from a new member.
Whats the best oil for a 89 le baron 2.5L?
- Thread starter madrat39
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Do you know what viscosity Chrysler recommended for it in '89? If so, stick with the recommended viscosity. Oils are so much better than they were in '89, it would be hard to go wrong with just about anything on the market today.
If it were mine, I'd run any name brand 5w30 non-synthetic in it, changed every 3k miles if driven mostly in the city, or every 5k miles if you do mostly highway driving.
If you decide to go synthetic, I recommend Mobil 1 0w40. It has always performed very well in my turbo-charged VW 1.8L.
Thank's, I will check the owners manual for recommended oil. I will be using non-synthetic oil. It's going to be my 17 year old daughter's first car, so most of the miles will be city. Thanks again
Wow! An '89 4 cyl. LeBaron? Uh, embalming fluid? (no, actually that's cool).
Me-also like the Havoline/Purolator combo. If you had some Lube Control/Fuel Power, I'd put that in after the RX treatment(s), and see what else gets cleaned out.
Or, I might try the detergents in an SL-rated diesel oil (Amsoil 5W-30 HDD or SAE30/10W-30; or Mobil 1 5W-40; Rotella syn).
Me-also like the Havoline/Purolator combo. If you had some Lube Control/Fuel Power, I'd put that in after the RX treatment(s), and see what else gets cleaned out.
Or, I might try the detergents in an SL-rated diesel oil (Amsoil 5W-30 HDD or SAE30/10W-30; or Mobil 1 5W-40; Rotella syn).
Hey madrat39,
That's a nice old classic you have there. How many miles on it? Those old Mopar 4 cylinder motors are not sludge monsters. There are 2 things to pay attention to. Make sure the thermostat is working correctly, (192 degree recommended), and clean the PCV valve every oil change, change it every year or two. Just about any oil will be fine. My 89 Turbo 2.5 Caravan, 198K miles, uses Rotella T Syn 5W40, 91 Spirit 2.5, 184K miles, has ST 15W40 in it. Just changed oil today in 94 2.5 Acclaim, 173K miles, put ST syn 10W30 in it. Good luck.
Wayne
That's a nice old classic you have there. How many miles on it? Those old Mopar 4 cylinder motors are not sludge monsters. There are 2 things to pay attention to. Make sure the thermostat is working correctly, (192 degree recommended), and clean the PCV valve every oil change, change it every year or two. Just about any oil will be fine. My 89 Turbo 2.5 Caravan, 198K miles, uses Rotella T Syn 5W40, 91 Spirit 2.5, 184K miles, has ST 15W40 in it. Just changed oil today in 94 2.5 Acclaim, 173K miles, put ST syn 10W30 in it. Good luck.
Wayne
I used to run 9,000 mile intervals with Supertech 10W-30 in my 87 Dodge Lancer.
10W-30 all the way in the 2.5.
I factory-ordered a new LeBaron GT with the V6 and 5 speed manual in '90. Bright white with white wheels and the "new" interior. Got rid of it at 156K just because we we're sick of driving it. A quick, fun, attractive and altogether reliable car to the very end.
I factory-ordered a new LeBaron GT with the V6 and 5 speed manual in '90. Bright white with white wheels and the "new" interior. Got rid of it at 156K just because we we're sick of driving it. A quick, fun, attractive and altogether reliable car to the very end.
Turbo or normally aspirated?
The N/A cars are very easy on oil. I think by your year you have roller lifters. There's a big engine section on allpar.com, look in the "eek" section.
The thermostat needs to have the air behind it bled; I've found a tiny hole drilled in the top of it is the best solution. The bleeder screw in the t-stat housing is not worth attempting to remove, it sticks that poorly.
The FL1A size filter usually fits without problems and is nicely oversized.
The biggest blooper under the hood is the head gasket, these are absolutely terrible stock. The favored replacement is a mopar performance part that for whatever reason is even sometimes cheaper! If caught early, like when exhaust bubbles are in the radiator overflow tank, the head is almost always saved and doesn't even need machining.
I've done two head gaskets (first was on a dodge spirit I bought for $160 to practice on) on these 2.5s without even removing the manifolds. Just hook the timing sprocket up with a bunjee, lose the head bolts, and jack up the catalytic convertor to raise the head an inch. Clean the surfaces and slip the new gasket in! Takes an afternoon.
The N/A cars are very easy on oil. I think by your year you have roller lifters. There's a big engine section on allpar.com, look in the "eek" section.
The thermostat needs to have the air behind it bled; I've found a tiny hole drilled in the top of it is the best solution. The bleeder screw in the t-stat housing is not worth attempting to remove, it sticks that poorly.
The FL1A size filter usually fits without problems and is nicely oversized.
The biggest blooper under the hood is the head gasket, these are absolutely terrible stock. The favored replacement is a mopar performance part that for whatever reason is even sometimes cheaper! If caught early, like when exhaust bubbles are in the radiator overflow tank, the head is almost always saved and doesn't even need machining.
I've done two head gaskets (first was on a dodge spirit I bought for $160 to practice on) on these 2.5s without even removing the manifolds. Just hook the timing sprocket up with a bunjee, lose the head bolts, and jack up the catalytic convertor to raise the head an inch. Clean the surfaces and slip the new gasket in! Takes an afternoon.
Thank you all for your replies. To answer a few of your questions: oldmoparguy1, I'm not sure of the mileage as the engine was replaced before I got it. eljefino, It's a non-turbo. Thanks for the tip on drilling a small hole in the t-stat to bleed air out. I have to replace it anyway as it seems to be sticking shut,(or maybe just air locked). That's also a slick way to change the head gasket, hope I don't have to, but if so will remember that trick. I've also noticed that the engine cooling fan isn't coming on, have already checked the motor itself and it's working. I also tried a new relay, but still nothing. If anyone can give some hints on what else to try, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again, madrat39
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