Car in question is a 2002 Camry with the 2.4l. I noticed a drop of coolant on top of the A/C Compressor, directly beneath the upper radiator hose to thermostat housing junction. Running my finger around the hose connection itself, it is weeping from there for sure. Hose is original, with 145K. With the age/mileage of the hoses, I planned on replacing them anyhow as this car sees 100+ mile highway daily driving. The question is this- should I start with only the hose, or is it likely corrosion of the aluminum housing is compromising that seal as well, requiring replacement? Based on the very few maintenance records, it looks like it has been over a decade since the coolant has been changed. I haven't had the time to pull it apart yet, but wanted to have all parts ordered and on hand for when I do. Thanks in advance.
What would you do with this coolant leak?
- Thread starter Fifth87
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Owen Lucas
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If the part is cheap enough, you're already working on the system and have it drained, might as well replace it. Do the other hoses as well if economical.
New hoses OE or Gates, new OE constant tension clamps, new OE thermostat/gasket.... I'd inspect the housing as it should last the life of the engine. My 2azfe uses an aluminum housing. And, the tension clamps are optional.
No need for OE coolant. Use ANY of the pink/red Asian coolants from any of your local autopart stores. Plenty of choices now. OEMRecochem, Pentosin, Peak, ValvolineZerex, BeckArnley, SuperTech.. are all good.
No need for OE coolant. Use ANY of the pink/red Asian coolants from any of your local autopart stores. Plenty of choices now. OEMRecochem, Pentosin, Peak, ValvolineZerex, BeckArnley, SuperTech.. are all good.
Be careful of the radiator side of the hose when you go to work. I had a same-year Toyota radiator break there from heat fatigue on the plastic radiator upper hose inlet. Toyota had some inadequate plastic materials in the radiator tanks, heater valves, etc. a few years +/- 2000. Have seen it a few times.
Also, the OE t-stat is MUCH more robust than the cheap Stant, etc. replacements. Try to track one of those down.
Also, the OE t-stat is MUCH more robust than the cheap Stant, etc. replacements. Try to track one of those down.
Shel_B
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I agree. While I might prefer OE coolant, I'd be fine with most any listed above. In fact, I think we put Zerex in sweetie's Prius and the Camry got OE. Not for any particular reason, it just worked out that way.
utility knife/ razor blade. No fun destroying plastic rad end caps. : (
No, what I mean is worse than that. The material eventually breaks down and softens, literally starts dissolving and then collapses. I've seen it happen to higher mileage but otherwise well-cared for Toyota products; particularly recall a ~2000 GS300 and a 2002 ES300.
wow. sounds like biodegradable material. I'm used to fragile old plastic necks that can crack near the output barb.
If your radiator is that fragile, its a failure waiting to happen. My Camry radiator lasted 18 years. My other Highlander radiator lasted 14 years. They started to barely weep along the seems. Just replace it or run out of coolant, overheat, and blow the engine.
Seriously, if you buy a used vehicle, you need to go over EVERYTHING, all hoses and belts, all fluids/filters, all normal maintenance items(thermostat/cap, pcv valve, spark plugs, idler pulley/tensioner......)
Seriously, if you buy a used vehicle, you need to go over EVERYTHING, all hoses and belts, all fluids/filters, all normal maintenance items(thermostat/cap, pcv valve, spark plugs, idler pulley/tensioner......)
+1
Here's the upper hose connection from the LS400's radiator (original, replaced 2018, ~80k miles). It was fractured for a while, broke all the way off when I removed the hose.
Thank you to all who replied. I wasn't aware of the fragility of radiator tanks plastic! I will be sure to exercise caution in removing the hoses and inspect the tank to core seams for seepage.
By that same logic, is it safe to use the drain petcock, or is that also likely to break?
It appears there is substantial corrosion on the thermostat housing, but if I can clean it up with some emery cloth, I may go that route. I am going over everything as time permits. I purchased everything to service the transmission, new spark plugs, pcv valve and valve cover gasket, since that is leaking externally and into the spark plug wells.
Oil/filter and air filter were done the day I purchased it
By that same logic, is it safe to use the drain petcock, or is that also likely to break?
It appears there is substantial corrosion on the thermostat housing, but if I can clean it up with some emery cloth, I may go that route. I am going over everything as time permits. I purchased everything to service the transmission, new spark plugs, pcv valve and valve cover gasket, since that is leaking externally and into the spark plug wells.
Oil/filter and air filter were done the day I purchased it
