What Viscosity Would You Guys Recommend for My Engine ?

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Well after reading some good remarks on Havoline Synthetic Oil I want to pick some up this weekend for my first synthetic oil change on this new engine/car. Its a Honda K20 2.0 Litre used on the new Civic SiR. Firstly, this engine is recommended to run 5w-20. I have been running 5w-30 regular oil for a couple oil changes. Car just turned 9000 kms and I think it is time for a good synthetic. I am tempted to run their 5w-40 synthetic as this engine seems to run pretty hot. But they also have 10-30 and 5-30 versions. I am sure they are all very good oils. This car is a daily driver, it gets driven pretty hard at times, sees some high revs, and does not see winter temps. This engine has a balance shaft system incorporated into the oil pan, but I am not sure how it operates or if it contacts the actual oil, I wouldn't think so, but not sure. My thinking is to go with 5w-40 and it may shear back to 30 after a few miles. But I don't want to go with an oil that is too thick. By looking at the 5w-40 it doesnt seem too thick, but hard to say until it heats up I guess. Well any opinions would be great. thanks very much.

Joey
 
My choices would be

Redline 10w40
Amsoil 10w40
Shaffers 15w40

Any would be just fine with me.

Oh, Delvac 1 would be OK too.

How come I didn't list any 30 weight oils?
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[ August 09, 2002, 10:24 PM: Message edited by: satterfi ]
 
I hope you did this:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Based on info that I've been reading here so far, Mobil Delvac 1 5W40 or Shell Rotella 5W40 might be some good options for you as well (apart from what satterfi already mentioned). If you want some 30wt recommendations, maybe:

- Schaeffer Full Synth. 5W30
- AMSOIL Full Synth 5W30 or Series 2000 0W30
- Redline 5W30

Info here regarding Mobil's SuperSyn doesn't sound too promising.

Regards,

Oz
 
Given your location a full synthetic of some sort would be highly recommended. I have trouble with going to a 40W as synthetics really do not shear. I would suggest any of the quality "real" synthetics as mentioned above in the XW-30 level, then do an oil analysis to ascertain that the oil is indeed the correct viscosity. In this little engine, churning a 40W is going to extract some horsepower, create heat, etc... Try the 30W first, then if you see high wear rates or shear down, go the M1 0W-40 or other full syn 40W.
George Morrison, STLE CLS
 
Regarding "Info here regarding Mobil's SuperSyn doesn't sound too promising" I must have come on board late and missed something re M1 SuperSyn... As I have shared elsewhere, from fleets that I monitor that have transitioned from original Mobil 1 to Tri Syn to SuperSyn, I have seen no change in oil analysis results whatsoever... These are vehicles that are well maintained, but abused driving-wise, with multiple drivers, city, much idling, many with several hundred thousand miles on their engines.. Oil analysis results graphed are about straight line in all parameters.. What real world information did I miss??
George Morrison, STLE CLS
 
George, as you may know, I have my suspicions about Mobil 1's barrier additives (or lack thereof) but I'm trying to reserve judgement until I see some of the guinea pi ... er, um guys on this board try the stuff in very different cars and have samples tested.

The one test I saw was a Timken (available on Bob's homepage) and the SuperSyn's barrier package wouldn't plate up when put under pressure. Not proof ... but an ominous sign.

You say the synthetics don't shear. Well, the base fluid might not ... but won't the VII additives shear down?
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Since this Honda is designed with a 5W20 in mind, I wouldn't go with a higher than a W30 for the first 40-50,000 miles. If you are going with really short (3K or less) intervals, I don't think it matters which W30 you use. For heavier use, I'd prefer the more stable 10W30s mentioned above.

--- Bror Jace
 
GeorgeCLS,

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=000038#000025

Look for VaderSS' posts regarding wear tests. I know it's not 100% tangible, but it does raise some concerns. I'm also curious to what the NOACK values are for SuperSyn compared to TriSyn.

And as Bror Jace already said, it would be nice to see analysis reports on it. As for me, I'm sticking with 5W40 Delvac 1 over SuperSyn for the time being.

Regards,

Oz
 
GeorgeCLS
A lot of people here have decided M1 SuperSyn is not good. Seems you are the only one who has seen analysis results from many different vehicles using the SuperSyn version, with no discernible differences in real life useage than the TriSyn version.
 
Actually, I found the wear results to be encouraging, as they are the same for Amsoil's own "regular" synthetics, the ASL and ATM oils. I have had excellent results from M1 in the past, and George's experience confirms my confidence in the oil.

Of course this is all moot, since I've switched to M1 0W40, which does great in tests. I wonder how it would do on the 4 ball tests.
 
Originally posted by sprintman:
[QB]GeorgeCLS
A lot of people here have decided M1 SuperSyn is not good.

Sprintman,
My sentiments are the same with you on this issue.
It is popular with some here to be Mobil 1 bashers.
I have used Amsoil and Mobil 1 and went with Mobil 1 over the last 4 or 5 years and have found that it gave me EXCELLENT service (7,000 mile and even some 10,000 mile changes doing just fine).
I believe with the newest SL, GF3 classifications that many of the oils (mineral and synthetic) are very fine products and will give good service for their intended applications.
I come here to learn from others and share my own experiences and find this to be a site of great help and service.
We all have different requirements and desires for the oil we choose to use.
There are many good oils to choose from now, let us not be like some who do not let "facts" mess them up.
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Good Day,
Steven
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JSIR, I would try, or at least experiment with, 5w-20 (preferably synthetic) like the manual says. It's no accident that Mobil One's first viscosity was 5w-20 in the early 70s (they were ahead of their time). Lighter oils have obviously come a long way. I'm greatly influenced by the fact that most of the wear occurs at startup. I've had excellent results using Amsoil 5w-20 in an old Acura and a new Honda.
 
thanks for the responses. I might be interested in a 5w-20 oil if one could be found that did not shear too quickly, cuase if that oil shears down to a 10 weight then that would not be good. I am leaning towards the Havoline Synthetic 10w-30, it seems to flow very easily but appears to be very stable. The 5w-40 seems to be thicker, and maybe a bit too thick for everyday use. thanks againg guys. Oh yeah, I don't think much of that break-in procedure, personally I don't think there is much difference between break-ins, I highly doubt the two pistons differ only because of break in procedure, I guess everyone is entitled to their own opinion. I broke in my engine very easily and slowly, and my car seems to dyno a little on the high side compared to similar vehicles.
 
I'm gonna get an analysis of the Havoline (equilon "big cap" bottle) 10W30 SL done on my neon after 5000 miles. So far after a 6 run autocross and 500 odd miles of street use it still appears clean on the dipstick, hasn't used any yet either.
 
neonmike22.
Good, it will be interesting to see an analysis done on the mineral SL oil.
By the way, is the 10W30 what your Neon calls for in viscocity?
Another thing, I have compared the Havoline (Equilon) and the Havoline (Chevron), both 5W30, and the Havoline (Chevron) is much clearer than the Equilon label, almost as clear as purified water.
Has anyone else noticed this about any other new SL mineral oil?

Steven
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