What to use to prevent rust from MN winters???

Messages
135
Location
Ramsey
My wife just bought a 06 Uplander that has not seen a Minnesota winter yet. It looks new underneath and would like to keep it that way. What do you guy use for a rust preventer? I heard an annual coat of LPS#3 would keep the rust away. Anyone use LPS#3 for this?
 
Messages
7,430
Location
beaver land EH?
LPS#3 along the door seams and so forth; 1 thick coat of rubberised bitumenous (tar) stuff under the car (check annually before the season begins) and that's it. Wash the underchassis of your car every week to rid of excessive road salt and such. I used to order something called "waxoyl" from UK for door panels and now, not anymore for LPS is just as good and it's main purpose is to rid of moisture accumulation on the door and other panel seams and such. Don't use too much though for it will drip off our car or swell up your rubber weatherstripping.Also, once you applied LPS with sufficient thickness, you do not need to reapply every year for you will over-spray it easily. Just reapply every 5 yrs should be fine.
 
Messages
267
Location
Buffalo,NewYork
I live here in buffalo,NY and if You have a Sherwin Williams auto paint center or a Napa,You can buy a rustproffing kit...Gun,nozzles,hoses a rustproffing by the gallon. All You need is a compressor & the cost of the product is very good & easy to apply. The product name is "Rustfre"
 
Messages
664
Location
Buffalo, NY
Yet another Buffalonian here. Haven't tried the LPS but have been using amsoil heavy duty metal protector which sounds somewhat similar in the door panels and spraying this bitumen stuff in other areas using a kit i got from jcwhitney that sounds similar to the setup freeze12 mentioned.
 

JTK

Messages
13,432
Location
Buffalo, NY
Yeah, I've tried the DIY gun/liquid spray on kits in the past. They never did much but make a sticky mess. Nor did the 2 'professional' rust proofing jobs I had done. Also tried brush on stuff from JCWhitney many years ago. That didn't hold up either. Joel
 

Kestas

Staff member
Messages
13,959
Location
The Motor City
Use Texaco Rust Proof Compound L or whatever may be similar to it. I have 25 years field experience with it and I don't think you can do better with any other coumpound. It needs to be reapplied every 2-3 years.
 
Messages
267
Location
Buffalo,NewYork
I have 5 years on My rustproofing & it did really well as I just reapplied the rustproofing & the undercarriage of My 2001 Old's Alero still looked new considering the winters her in Buffalo,NY. "down with road salt!!!"
 
Messages
3,086
Location
Cincinnati
I lived in Orchard Park for my first 17 years......I don't remember any snow or cars that rusted a lot. Oh wait....that's right, it was any GRASS or warm temperatures that I can't remember. My bad. Sorry, off topic.
 
Messages
1,451
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
The most important thing is the quality of the application and at least annual inspection of the underside to make sure all is well. Keep all the weep/drain holes clear so water doesn't collect anywhere. I have a Ziebart dealer that does awsome work but if I couldn't take it to someone I trust I would try to do it myself. Many places do a poor job from what I've seen.
 
Messages
522
Location
New York
Apparently warm garages speed up the oxidation process as the snow melts and gets the car wet with all the saltiness. you lost either way, cold starts or rust.
 

JetSnake

Thread starter
Messages
135
Location
Ramsey
Quote:
The most important thing is the quality of the application and at least annual inspection of the underside to make sure all is well. Keep all the weep/drain holes clear so water doesn't collect anywhere. I have a Ziebart dealer that does awsome work but if I couldn't take it to someone I trust I would try to do it myself. Many places do a poor job from what I've seen.
I agree. I had my truck ziebared and a few years later the rust is showing up pretty bad. That's why I figured I would just do it myself. I'm thinking I will give the LPS 3 a try, not?
 

Kestas

Staff member
Messages
13,959
Location
The Motor City
Mechtech2, there may be a better compound out there... I don't know. I remember 25 years ago researching rustproofing for myself. I queried the experts at Chrysler when I worked there. These were engineers who best knew rust and rustproofing. They pointed me to the Texaco compound. I talked to the people who make the Polygard rustproofing. I was not impressed with the fact that it turns waxy and can harden with time, delaminate, and trap corrodants, making rust worse in the latter stages of the coating's life. I find there are other products that emulate the formulation of Texaco rustproofing. Also, Texaco rustproofing is priced right... $65 for a 5-gal pail, which can do many applications. Once I find something better than Texaco rustproofing, I'll be sure to let everyone know. If anybody finds something better than Texaco rustproofing, let me know. Keeping the car clean and clearing the drain holes are not all-important. They help, but the real reason for corrosion is that the metal is not sealed from the elements. Once paint is chipped from stone damage, or breached for some other reason, corrosion sets in, and there is no stopping it, unless the car never gets wet again. Rustproofing compound seals the metal from the corrosive elements.
 
Messages
453
Location
ON, Canada
How do you DIY guys spay the underbody? I'd like to take all the plugs (that make sense) on the underbody off and spray inside there. Although I can't really do it in my garage. I do my panels rustproofing with Krown. Any thoughts?
 

Kestas

Staff member
Messages
13,959
Location
The Motor City
I modified my sprayer with a custom-machined chunk of metal at the tip. This tip accepts a length of brake line tubing that screws into this adapter. The tubing has a 30° bend at the tip. The spray gun has a pressure feed setting, and is set up for enamel (viscous) fluid. The Texaco compound is thinned with mineral spirits so it can flow through the gun. The thinner then dries off leaving the rustproofing intact. These are the instructions used by every shop that uses this compound. I imagine this procedure wreaks havoc with ozone action days!
 
Messages
4,646
Location
The Garden State
Quote:
My wife just bought a 06 Uplander that has not seen a Minnesota winter yet. It looks new underneath and would like to keep it that way. What do you guy use for a rust preventer? I heard an annual coat of LPS#3 would keep the rust away. Anyone use LPS#3 for this?
I'm in the salt capital of NJ and started using the LPS#3 last year. It has made a noticable improvement in slowing/stopping the frame rust on my 2002 F-150. I just applied this years application and last years application was still holding up pretty good. I applied it on the areas showing rust originally. Now I applied it on more areas and will keep doing it once a year in the fall. I had a 1989 F-150 and the frame totally rusted out because I didn't do any sort of rust protection . I buy my LPS#3 from www.mcmaster.com . They are based in NJ but ship by UPS so I guess they'll ship to MN no problem and probably not much more than to me in NJ. Plus you most likely will not have to pay sales tax since it's being shipped from out of state . If you have any questions pm me. Whimsey
 

9c1

Messages
323
Location
Berwyn, IL
McMaster Carr has offices in Atlanta, Chicago, Cleveland, Los Angeles, and New Jersey. I believe their corporate offices are in the Chicago area, but I could be wrong about that. My experience is that they are an excellent company to deal with. I have the luxury of being able to pick up my items from their will call, so I have no direct experience with their shipping. However, they do deliver items to a nearby school with which I am affiliated. They get their orders the next business day with no issues.
 
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