What oil should I use?

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I'm a car dufus.

I have a 97 Escort with 70,000 miles on it and have had the oil and filter changed every 3000 miles. I follow the maintainance schedule like clockwork. So far it's been a good car.

I want to know, in plain English what kind of oil you'd put in it and why. Should I just go with whatever the fix it place puts in it (cheap stuff I'm sure) or should I go with one of those fancy "high mileage" oils or should I use a synthetic? I would really like to keep this car as long as possible and you know how Fords have a bad rep when it comes to leaking oil (so far so good)

Thanks
 
You don't sound like a car dufus to me!
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Sounds like you are doing fine. If you stick with 3K oil changes, and follow the owners manual for SAE viscosity, you aren't "off in the weeds" as far as engine life goes.

Food for thought:

1) At the end of the next 3K OIC (oil change interval) get the oil analyzed and post the results here (in the Used OA section)

2) You may be able to go a bit longer even with a dino oil, especially if your car can use a trucker oil such as Chevron Delo 400.

3) I say don't bother with the high mile oils. Besides, 70K is a young pup. I don't have my books with me, what does the owner's manual say for oil at your temps (warm!)?

4) If you do lots of hwy driving and lead a busy life a good synthetic oil and 10K+ oil changes are an option. I am very biased toward synthetic oil because I sell it - but it hooked me for the benefits (certainly not the money). I like the fact that I can "miss" an oil change or three (busy as heck) and the engine does not suffer. I can honestly say good synthetic oils are better for your seals and my high mile cars don't leak a drop.

[ June 06, 2003, 09:39 AM: Message edited by: Pablo ]
 
Rosemary, why not keeping your actual receipe ?
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Whats wrong with it ?
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You can't go wrong with the oil change at 3000 miles, you covers the severe schedule.
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Castrol GTX , Pennzoil purebase seems to be the best value , avoid Fram filters and enjoy your escort
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

But if you're willing to change your own oil, vs relying on a shop, than you can hand pick your own oil and filter.

For Dino oil I'd use Pennzoil or Chevron. For synthetic, Mobil 1 is excellent. Don't use Fram filters. I prefer Purolator Pure Ones, but AC Delco, Wix, Napa golds are also good.

quote:

Originally posted by Rosemary4126:
I'm a car dufus.

I have a 97 Escort with 70,000 miles on it and have had the oil and filter changed every 3000 miles. I follow the maintainance schedule like clockwork. So far it's been a good car.

I want to know, in plain English what kind of oil you'd put in it and why. Should I just go with whatever the fix it place puts in it (cheap stuff I'm sure) or should I go with one of those fancy "high mileage" oils or should I use a synthetic? I would really like to keep this car as long as possible and you know how Fords have a bad rep when it comes to leaking oil (so far so good)

Thanks


 
I'm an oil nut like many of (all??) us on this board. I would not be able to operate under the same conditions that you do. But what you are doing is excellent. You'll have to give us information on whether you go to a quick lube place, trusted garage or if you can get someone (friend-whatever) to change your own oil. I would stick with what you are doing. I would however say to go with, Chevron, Castrol GTX or Pennzoil.

If you want to gradually step up in quality and really more importantly longer drain intervals. Mobil 1 or Amsoil is the way to go. But for now-I'd say "steady as she goes"

[ June 06, 2003, 10:30 AM: Message edited by: Al ]
 
Just keep changing the oil at 3000 miles and stick with your current program. Dino may suit your needs better. The vehicle is 5 years old and 70000 miles and is an economy car.

I would recommend M1 but since you change your oil frequently at the local garages it may be the best plan.
 
I'm shocked that so many of you are saying to continue with dino oil and 3k intervals, since this site is all about doing anything but that practice! We all know there are better ways to go about it. We wouldn't have this site if all of us simply decided to use cheap oil and 3k intervals.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
I'm shocked that so many of you are saying to continue with dino oil and 3k intervals, since this site is all about doing anything but that practice! We all know there are better ways to go about it. We wouldn't have this site if all of us simply decided to use cheap oil and 3k intervals.

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Patman, Rosemary will get that response because we all are assuming she (hopefully its a she)
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has been doing such a fine job of maintaining her, oopss, the vehicle. Assuming rose is a women I think we are all in shock, at least I am, that the vehicle has been maintained. I hope I didn't insult anyone, oooops.
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I agree with Patman. More so, I think Rosemary is ready to step up to the plate and start doing her own oil changes. Good advice above on filters. As for oil, in Georgia, for a newbie with one car, 70k miles, why not Mobil 1 10W-30 year round?

Rosemay could change it twice a year instead of her current 4 time per year. It only takes about $30 in tools to get into the oil change business.

Over the course of a lifetime, is there any better investment in education and tools than to change your own oil and recycle it?
 
If you're going to continue getting oil changes done for you, ask them for Mobil 1 5w30, and get them done every 6000 miles instead.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
If you're going to continue getting oil changes done for you, ask them for Mobil 1 5w30, and get them done every 6000 miles instead.

That's an excellent suggestion and I was going to make on similar to it-however. I was concerned that the place he/she goes to might pocket the oil and give her junk. That's why I asked the other leading questions.

But you could go buy the stuff, ask for the empty containers on the pretext that you are a serious recycler or something. One other note-I would go with the 10W-30 Mobil 1 down in Georgia (all year round). And 6,000 miles is very conservative. Make sure you check your oil level periodically.

[ June 06, 2003, 12:38 PM: Message edited by: Al ]
 
I agree with Patman. The lovely lady came here looking for the best advice. Let's not settle for oridinary.

We just finished the discussion on the benefit of synthetic oils. So, I would agree...use a quality brand name synthetic in the grade spec'd out by your owner's manual (probably 5 or 10-30), and increase the interval to the "severe schedule" also as per the owner's manual...and use the saved time and money at nasty lube places for better things like, spa time perhaps?
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question:
for an engine that has run a bit over 100,000km, which oil would be better: mineral or semi-synthetic or synthetic? the car is used as a daily driver.
 
Rosemary,

While I'm usually with those who say, "stick with the system you're using now", you do have some options if you want to change your current routine.

I like the advice about switching to a synthetic like Mobil One and changing it every 6000 miles. Looking at your mileage and car's age it seems you drive about 12,000 miles per year. So the synthetic switch will reduce your change intervals to twice per year. Piece of cake.

I'm not clear whether you want to start changing your own oil or let a shop do it. If you want to do your own work, terrific. If you want to have a shop do the dirty work, you can always bring your own oil and oil filter and have them use your stuff instead of theirs. If you're concerned about their honesty, you could stand there and watch them do the oil change.

Lots of good comments here. I hope all this helps you. Good luck.
 
If it were mine I'd give Tim a call and order in some Schaeffer's #701 5w30 or #703 10w30 blend(a real blend). It will give you excellent wear protection with the ability to extend drain intervals at an economical price,and if your inclined towards fuel additives try the neutra,this stuff is about as versatile as your going to get,neutra can also be used as an oil purge before changing your oil. Take a look at Stuart's Neon ,I think he's going for a 12k run right now with Schaeffer's,Oh and don't forget to do analysis if your extending drain's or just want to see how your car is holding up and you'll find out how much fun oil can be
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So, am I supposed to believe that buying $4.81/qt* M1 and changing it and the filter every 6,000 miles will result in piles of miles' and years' more engine longevity than buying $1.12/qt* Chevron Supreme and changing it and the filter every 3,000 miles? Really? Show me the proof.

*Current pricing at my local Wal*Marts

[ June 08, 2003, 12:10 PM: Message edited by: Ray H ]
 
Don't have to do what people suggest, not are said people obligated to prove anything to you. Don't like it, go away...

[ January 19, 2004, 02:29 AM: Message edited by: wes ]
 
RayH;
I think the issue is whether she is doing the changes herself or getting them done for her. Doubling her OCI with more expensive oil will probably not save money directly, but will save time and limit the number of occasions that the quicklubers will have to sell her stuff she doesn't need
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Along that line I've gone to Mobil1 and will be changing at 7500 miles or 1 year. I've done the calculations, and I'm not saving any money at all, and I don't think it will make a bit of difference on how long I keep the vehicles. Simply a matter of saving time and reducing waste disposal...I like to do the Oil changes myself because I know they'll be done right, but don't like doing it enough to go with 3000 mile intervals.

I'm glad we have this site (and 3MP's oil study) to confirm that this is a reasonable approach
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quote:

Originally posted by bretfraz:
If you're concerned about their honesty, you could stand there and watch them do the oil change.

More importantly, if she's concerned about their honesty, perhaps she shouldn't do business there at all...
 
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