What Oil For High HP Turbo Motor?

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463
Location
Palatine, IL
I just picked up my new Volvo S60R. This car has a turbocharged, 300HP, 2.5 Litre, 5 Cyl engine. Volvo recommends 7,500 miles between oil changes. Because I drive around 20,000 miles per year, I really prefer extended drain intervals. Also, with the turbo and high output, I think it is prudent to use an oil that works well. I am convinced that synthetics are a huge plus for turbo motors, so I will be using a synthetic oil. I was planning on using Amsoil 0w30 Series 2000 until I saw a recent thread on this site where several people stated that the thinner oils did not do well with the turbors. What say you, what weight synthetic should I use for summer and winter? Any oils tha twork particularly well in a motor like this? One other question: Is Royal Purple oil actually purple? Thanks. [ October 03, 2003, 10:14 PM: Message edited by: DockHoliday ]
 
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764
Location
Fairfield County, CT
I would run an ACEA A3 oil, like Mobil 1 0W-40, German Castrol 0W-30, or Amsoil S2K 0W-30. There are some really nice Amsoil S2K UOAs on an Audi S4 from a guy in Pennsylvania (Audi S4 = twin-turbo, 30-valve V6 with six-speed). He ran M1 0W-40 for one interval and it was just as good. But he wrote that the engine felt smoother on Amsoil. What does it say in your owner's manual?
 

DockHoliday

Thread starter
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463
Location
Palatine, IL
Volvo recommends Castrol synthetic, and the viscosity chart allows for 0W30,0W40,5W30, 5W40, and 10W40 for most days of the year in my climate. It looks like the 0W oils are the most suitable and can be used year round. Per the car, there is no advantage of a 10W30 over a 0W30, even in warmer months. However, there is a note that says OW30 and 0W40 oils MUST fullfil ACEA A3 requirements. I am not familiar with ACEA, what does it mean?
 
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951
Location
Loveland, Colorado
ACEA is the Euro Oil Association responsible for grading engine oils. The grades are separated in engine type (the letter portion) & durability (the number portion). The grades you're interested in are A1, A5 & A3, with A1 being the least durable/protective & A3 being the most durable/protective. With a Volvo turbo, A3 is your best bet, & A5 should be your minimum rating. You should stay away from A1 oils all together.
 
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5,358
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Gone
Dock, Congratulations on your acquisition! I am looking at purchasing this same automobile and, if I get one, it will dine on GC 0W30. I constantly hear that Redline and turbos are a match made in heaven and Terry Dyson is really impressed with Redline's products, so you ought to give Redline serious consideration; however, I will stick with GC, especially since that fits with Volvo's recommendations. You should stick with A3 rated oils. [ October 04, 2003, 01:58 AM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
 
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764
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Fairfield County, CT
Yup. ACEA, translated roughly, is Association of the Constructors of European Automobiles. Amsoil S2K 0W-30 will be fine. Don't let the "0W" fool ya, it's thick at high temps. At 100C it's about 12 centistokes. For comparison, Mobil 1 5W-30: it is thinner, only about 10 centistokes at that temperature. Doesn't meet ACEA A3 spec.
 
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3,216
Location
BC, Canada
Dock; I think you answered you own question in your second post. You are worried that the xxW30s may be too thin, and the xxW40s are the better choice. That would leave you with either an 0W40 or 5W40 synthetic for fall and winter operation, and either a 15W50 synthetic or 15W40 conventional for warmer weather. One thing to remember is that all of the HDMOs are turbo compatable, as the Diesel engines those oils are designed for all have turbo chargers. With your boat, you seemed to jump all over the map trying to pick an oil other than one recommended by the engine builder, and not having much luck. Your first option to use a 5W40 was the best and you got away from your original idea. I think it would be wise in the case of the Volvo to stick with their engine oil suggestions and service intervals unless you are supporting extended drains with UOA trending. Warranty requirements notwithstanding, and out the window. Oh, and one more thing Dock, make sure the oil you choose is Certified ACEA A-3 rated, and not just "meets or exceeds". edit: I was just looking in the VW W8 thread and I read that Castrol has an A3 certified synthetic 10W40. Why not just use that oil, change it at the manufactures recommended intervals until the warranty is up? It seems like a no-brainer to me, especially if the oil is recommended by Volvo. [ October 04, 2003, 05:34 PM: Message edited by: userfriendly ]
 
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47,697
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Duvall WA - Pacific NW USA
The Volvo "recommendation" of Castrol has zero to do with performnace. It has to do with dollars. Paid advertising dollars. You have a Volvo white motor. Basically the same as the 4 and 6 versions. I tend to agree this engine doesn't like nor need super "thin" oils, nor does it need a XW-50 oil. IMHO, this engine likes XW-40 oils. I have found Amsoil 15W-40 to be a good match for warm climates/seasons, and full synthetic 10W-40 perfect year round.
 
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764
Location
Fairfield County, CT
quote:
Originally posted by userfriendly: edit: I was just looking in the VW W8 thread and I read that Castrol has an A3 certified synthetic 10W40.
But isn't that a Group III FakeTec? Best to use a real synthetic like GC 0W-30, Mobil 1 0W-40, Delvac 1 5W-40, or Amsoil ATM/ASL/AMO/TSO. [ October 04, 2003, 05:47 PM: Message edited by: quadrun1 ]
 
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If a blend of cooking oil and STP could pass an A-3 test, then it wouldn't matter what level of "fake tec" the oil is manufactured from. A-3 certified is A-3 certified, what else matters? [ October 04, 2003, 05:56 PM: Message edited by: userfriendly ]
 
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Chattanooga, TN
Well, no one has touched on the oil change interval. You wish to go beyond 7500. Based upon my experience and those of the manufacturer as well as the oil companies I feel that the 7500 is about it. Try 500 first with UOA and see but I doubt you will get good results much beyond 7500. If you want longer intervals it also appears that redLine may not be the product of choice.
 
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Southern NJ
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000434 Not sure if this helps or if it's the same engine but this analysis with M1 10w-30 was one of the best on this site. I'd go with any Amsoil product, Mobil 1 10w-30, GC 0w-30. Thats just me. These oils time and time again show great results consistanly. Can you tell consistancy is important to me? BTW, GC is new so its not in stone that its that great of an oil yet. Sorry guys but 4 or 5 UOA's isn't large enough yet in my book. [Smile] [ October 04, 2003, 06:32 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
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764
Location
Fairfield County, CT
quote:
Originally posted by userfriendly: If a blend of cooking oil and STP could pass an A-3 test, then it wouldn't matter what level of "fake tec" the oil is manufactured from. A-3 certified is A-3 certified, what else matters?
Only problem I have with FakeTec is that it's priced the same as real synthetics, even though it costs less to produce. But Shell Rotella T Syn 5W-40 (Group III) is a great deal at $12.88/4 quarts. [ October 04, 2003, 06:48 PM: Message edited by: quadrun1 ]
 
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764
Location
Fairfield County, CT
quote:
Originally posted by buster: Not sure if this helps or if it's the same engine but this analysis with M1 10w-30 was one of the best on this site.
Problem with that is that it's not ACEA A3 approved. Gotta step up to M1 0W-40 for A3 approval.
 
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3,216
Location
BC, Canada
Oh good,were getting somewhere. Price, performance, availability, and warranty certification. The performance and warranty certification are the same topic. The only beef that people have against the group III engine oils is that some are priced at the same level as the PAO synthetics. How about paying for performance and warranty certification instead? Everytime someone asks an engine oil question, everybody jumps onto the PAO/group III debate, which is getting older by the day. [ October 04, 2003, 07:07 PM: Message edited by: userfriendly ]
 
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450
Location
Louisville, KY
A friend of mine has a Evo8, it really beat up his oil (black within a few hundred miles). It was MOBIL1 10w-30 I told him to switch to 15w-50 Mobil1 and it has ben holding upo real well despite some long + grueling autoX session. Fred.. [Smile]
 
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5,358
Location
Gone
quote:
Originally posted by userfriendly: How about paying for performance and warranty certification instead? Everytime someone asks an engine oil question, everybody jumps onto the PAO/group III debate, which is getting older by the day.
You have seen through the anti-Castrol bias/fog and seen the issue for what it really is. Does the oil meet engine requirements and does it perform? If the UOAs from any particular oil are superior, it is worth what you paid for it NO MATTER what it is made out of. If they are not, it is not...assuming that UOAS tell us everything we need to know about how the oil is performing and that we all have Terry Dyson's ability to properly interpret results. In addition, how are some members of this board SO SURE what it costs Castrol to make SYNTEC. Do they have access to the firm's accounting figures that show total cost for Group III base oil procurement and for the additive packages they use and for blending methodology? Why does no one REALLY take Pennzoil or Valvoline or Chevron to task over what they charge for their "synthetics?" This is prejudice, pure and simple. It is also a classic case of how the internet can build and perpetuate hearsay. (Did Mobil only go after Castrol about the definition of synthetic...if so, why? Could it be Castrol was the only one they were worried about from a competition standpoint?) [ October 04, 2003, 07:36 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
 

Patman

Staff member
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21,989
Location
Oakville, Ontario
quote:
Originally posted by Pablo: The Volvo "recommendation" of Castrol has zero to do with performnace. It has to do with dollars. Paid advertising dollars. You have a Volvo white motor. Basically the same as the 4 and 6 versions. I tend to agree this engine doesn't like nor need super "thin" oils, nor does it need a XW-50 oil. IMHO, this engine likes XW-40 oils. I have found Amsoil 15W-40 to be a good match for warm climates/seasons, and full synthetic 10W-40 perfect year round.
I was suprised when I saw the oil cap on my dad's 2004 Volvo XC70 and it had a Castrol logo on it! By the way Pablo, how is the reliability on the engine in this car? Has it been around long enough to even tell? And do you think this engine will like having a very thick 30wt oil in it?
 
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