What oil and viscosity for a '57 Willy's pickup?

[mormit]

My father-in-law is the proud new owner of a '57 Willy's pick-up truck. Solid shape, fairly clean without serious rust. Needs a new master cylinder and an air filter. Any air filter as it currently doesn't have one! Engine is said to be original. Actual mileage really can't be determined - 5 digit odometer. Here is what the owner's manual (reprinted) recommends on oil: Above 90F: SAE30 Not lower than 32F: SAE20 or 20W As low as 10F: SAE20W As low as -10F: SAE10W Lower than -10F: SAE10 plus 10% kerosene or SAE5W I wonder if Ford and Honda are going to start requiring 10% kerosene in their new cars in winter? This is obviously a well worn engine so we're thinking a 10W-30 dino oil. Any reason to go with a straight weight oil? He lives in Michigan so summer heat is not an issue. Side note: Also looking for a gasoline lead substitute. Any suggestions?

 

[TooSlick]

Mormit, I'd run the Delo 400, 15w-40 year round in this older motor ...the added detergency should help a lot and slowly clean up the inside of the motor... The Amsoil Series 2000 Octane boost is an excellent lead substitute .... TooSlick

 

[dragboat]

Myself I would use any plain old straight 30 wt and Bardahl Instead O Lead found at all Walmarts,,it burns pretty clean and is cheap @ 1.47 per bottle one bottle at a time But if he will be busting the motor off at 20F "like it will start anyway " a rethink towards 10/30 might be needed. Those old rope type main seals I don't think will take too much cleaning if the motor never has been apart it will start leaking. Cool truck,hope he has fun with it!

 

[TooSlick]

Dragboat, I was hoping you'd weight in on the most cost effective lead substitute to use, as the Amsoil stuff is fairly expensive. I bought a case to try out in my Tacoma pickup, which pings on 87 octane fuel and it seems to do the job. I don't think that using the 15w-40 is going to affect the main seals at all ...I was just thinking that this older motor could use the extra viscosity in hot weather to provide decent oil pressure and control oil burning/leaking? I would agree that a 5w-30 or 10w-30 might be better for the wintertime however, or even a 5w-40 Group III oil like Delo 400 or Petro Canada. TooSlick

 

[dragboat]

TooSlick, Rethinking the oil I believe you are correct in that the Delo would be no worse than any other oil in cleaning and starting leaks.My thoughts were by the way it was posted the truck had sat a long while since the brakes were out and no air filter,,never the less any oil these days will have detergents so I agree in that might as well give it low and high temp good VI lube with one oil. Actually if the truck was not driven much nor hard when driven it could do without a UCL at all or at least 1/2 dose treatments. Those old ignition systems don't fire well especially if trying to burn oil and a UCL. Lucas and Schaeffers 131 would be alternatives as well

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

I would recommend staying with the straight wt oils such as 30 or if mine a straight 40wt. Back in the 50's, the major oils available was only the straight wt 40 and most everyone used that. The engines were designed such because of the machining capabilities back then, so tolerances were not as suited for the lower viscosity oils as the newer engines of today. I believe you'll experience oil passing by the rings if you go with a multivisocity oil. As for lead replacement, it is good you are thinking about that as it too is no longer available in the newer fuels and since the types of metals and machining done back then it is important to maintain a suitable lead replacement so to help eliminate valve recession. As for lucas, I don't know if it is suitable as a lead substitute but the neutra 131 is and is extremely cost effective as many know.

 

[mormit]

So Neutra 131 can be used as a lead substitute? What ratio? I noticed that Schaeffer's has a lead substitute product.....available in 5 gallon size.

 

[dragboat]

The Lucas is suitable the help prevent valve seat recession not only stating it on the bottle but by the fact in that as it is a lube will cushion the valves when the valve margin hits the seats creating less heat and wear.It burns clean at proper treat rate as well Valves tulip from high heat and or lean running conditions appearing to receed but different deal there and only then cause problems with valve lash by sticking the stem up higher effectively closing up the lash setting, a precursor to burned valves by decreasing the adjusted valve/rocker clearance because it stays on the seat a shoter period "exhaust valve " creating more heat during certain cycle the incoming charge can and will cool if clearance is properly set. Some high performance motors could stretch the valve stem because of heavy spring pressure with out tuliping the valves Seems from previous dicussions at temp,a 15/40 is a 40wt and at 40c is reasonably viscous I guess there are many ways to get this job done,depends on how the truck is used doubting he will be speeding down the freeway at 70mph and the condition of the motor .10/30 does seem a cold weather only oil though for that motor. [ November 15, 2002, 08:27 PM: Message edited by: dragboat ]

 

[mormit]

It came with a plow. I'm sure he will be using it to clear the drive in winter. Dang, they get some snow in the U.P. Now I'm thinking....30wt with good friction modifiers (moly) pushing snow in winter. For the warmer months, 15W-40 for cool springs, warmish summers. It won't see a lot of mileage so oil changes every six months in spring and fall.

 

[TooSlick]

Dragboat, Do you know what chemical Bardahl is using as a lead substitute? Is it MMT or a related compound? I am trying to understand how exactly these products are supposed to work ... thanks! TooSlick

 

[williar]

This brings back memories. I learned to drive on a '55 Willys pickup - great because it had a PTO winch. The engine was the 115 hp "super hurricane" flathead six. Seems we used straight 30W in it, but 15W40 might be a better choice on this low-rpm mill. The air filter was of the oil bath type and the oil filter was the cartridge type. Have fun!

 

[MolaKule]

The lead substitutes leave a soft film that cushions the mechanical impulse forces at the valve seats so that recession doesn't take place. Some of the Octance boosters such as Amsoil's leave that cushioning film. I use it and other OTC products in the older Kohlers.

 

[mormit]

Williar: Yes, it had an oil bath filter....at least at one time. Guess since these are difficult to find the previous owner decided to do without. This is a working truck that's done mostly grunt work all its life, thus the plow.....the real kicker, get this....FIL was actually charged for the plow with the truck thrown in. Some 'Yooper didn't have his priorities straight and so FIL scored one sweet truck.