What kind of car would you use to teach stick?

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I'm a bit biased here, because I own the car, but I would suggest a '91-1993 Nissan 240sx. They are affordable, reliable, have plenty of power(especially torque), RWD(easy clutch replacement), and have a huge aftermarket following.

I think my car is easy as heck to drive. You really have to do something wrong to stall it out.
 
I learned in a 85 Honda Civic and took my drivers test in the same car. I got my license in 86 so the car was fairly new when I learned (no clutch problems).
 
I like the low-friction roadway idea. A snowy parking lot would be perfect. At first have them just pop the clutch and spin the wheels, then slow down the engagement so the wheels don't spin.

Kind of backwards from the "almost stall" method but workable nonetheless.

2wd pickups with nothing in the bed go great with this. Plus with sticks coming directly out of the transmission instead of running a bunch of FWD cables there'll be more positive feedback.
 
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Originally posted by Drew99GT:
A Honda Civic. Easiest manual trans equipped vehicles I've ever driven.

I've driven one of these too very nice to learn on, but driving Corollas and Prizm's, the car compensated for a low idle a bit more with the Toyota than the Honda in my experience -both fuel injected-.

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Originally posted by Drew99GT:
VW Bugs are very forgiving as well, maybe more so than a Civic.

I'd hate for someone to learn on my Corolla, with a glazed over pressure plate and disk and a transaxle that's about to push up daisies!


How did it end up that way? I understand the transmissions shifting issues but whats up with the glaze?

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Originally posted by brianl703:
Anything fuel injected. Why? The computer will attempt to maintain the idle by opening the air bypass valve to keep the engine from stalling.

So it is very easy to get any fuel-injected vehicle moving just by easing slowly off the clutch.


I second that, I've driven a carb'ed BMW and an older carb'ed Honda and always had to give it more gas to get a good launch.

I've driven a Ford stick shift once and for some reason I'd release the clutch at say 3,000 rpm and the engine speed would take about ten seconds to spool down to 2,000 rpm, I don't know if something was wrong with that Ford or if they have an odd way of making their cars shift.


I'd say go with either a fuel injected Honda or Toyota. If you are trying to learn stick yourself these are reliable cars to own, if you already drive a stick, go to a few car lots and test drive a few stick shift vehicles to see what seems easier for the person/people you are teaching.

I prefered a smaller vehicle to start with myself, but that's up to you. One other thing to consider is that if it's a new driver with a stick shift and you don't feel like dumping cash on a clutch then buying a decent junker for $1,000-2,000 might not be a bad idea either. I got my 95 Geo Prizm for $2,500 and the clutch, along with the rest of the car, is doing great at 151k miles.
 
Any small sedan, like an Escort, Corolla, Civic, etc... would probably be the easiest for the person learning.

I personally learned on my current truck, a 2001 Ranger. A couple of my friends have also learned on it. The clutch is still fine at 77K miles.
 
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I've driven a Ford stick shift once and for some reason I'd release the clutch at say 3,000 rpm and the engine speed would take about ten seconds to spool down to 2,000 rpm, I don't know if something was wrong with that Ford or if they have an odd way of making their cars shift.

Probably the idle air bypass was sticking/dirty.

Or the battery was recently disconnected and it hadn't learned the characteristics of the idle air bypass valve yet. It can compensate, to some degree, for a dirty idle air bypass valve, but all of that is lost if the battery is disconnected and it will take time to re-learn.
 
If the clutch is easier to replace for a RWD car/truck than a FWD one, how easy is it to replace the clutch of a 4WD Toyota pickup truck?
 
MN Driver, I think it's mainly because I have to start out on hills a lot around my area; it heats the clutch up a lot. In the mornings sometimes, it's chattery and grabby as heck.
 
Something with a LOWERED GEARING like a four-wheel drive P/U because you'll get less clutch SLIPPAGE and less resulting wear!
 
I learned on a 1983 Nissan pkp. I loved that little truck. OEM clutch lasted 133,000 miles through 2 new drivers(my sister and me). I vote small pick-up.
 
I learned on a '58 V.W. "Beetle" and my dad's '66 Plymouth s/w. 318 three on the tree. Taught my wife on my '69 roadrunner. Used a gravel road. If she "popped" the clutch, it had enough torque to keep running. Really whipped you back and forth though!
 
The clutch should not suffer significant damage on any car/truck before any (reasonable) student learns correct operation. In order to damage the clutch the student would have to repeatedly ease the clutch in at high revs, the instructor should not allow this.
I have instructed several people in 'stick shift'
I start with my Ride on lawnmower, and progress to my Toyota PU on a loose surface.
 
I learned on my FIL's Tacoma, g-o-d what a great truck.

2.7l full of fun and 4x4.

Great motor, makes all the right noises when you thrash it. Unrefined, whiny, and loud just like a truck should be.

Also a TDI is great car because you can just concentrate on the clutch wtihout ever touching the accelerator. Just ease the clutch out and off she goes. Shift up all the way to 5th if you have enough room and just let it idle along.
 
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Originally posted by sifan:
What kind of car would you use to teach kids how to drive a stick?

Any car but your own.

Seriously, though, this reminds me of Grad School. Some of the gals asked the guys if they would allow the loan of the guys' stickshift cars. Seems, the gals wanted to learn manual standard shift. The reply from the guys was short, sharp, and Unprintable!!!!!!
 
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Originally posted by ekrampitzjr:
Any older rear-drive Toyota. The 1970s-early 1980s Corollas, before FWD, were a dream to shift and the clutch was (relatively) easy to replace.

quote:

Originally posted by Zesty:
I'm a bit biased here, because I own the car, but I would suggest a '91-1993 Nissan 240sx. They are affordable, reliable, have plenty of power(especially torque), RWD(easy clutch replacement), and have a huge aftermarket following.

I think my car is easy as heck to drive. You really have to do something wrong to stall it out.


Even before drifting got really big the prices on these cars were going up. Finding a nice, clean, undrifted example is tough. At least it is around here.
 
Well, I learned to drive stick shift at age 11, but I achieved true shifting virtuosity (
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) in my first own car, which was of course a used Type 53 (Mark I) with a very smooth 5-speed:

 -


By the way, I believe anybody who hasn't ever driven an old Renault or Citroën with revolver shifter has missed out.
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I think a full sized pick-up truck. They're typically geared low (high numerically) so it's easier to get them rolling.

I taught myself in my Dad's '65 GMC when I was around thirteen years old. He had it parked against the curb while doing yard work. I climbed in, started it up and just moved forward and backwards just a few feet at a time. Did this over and over.

Learning the friction point is the key.
 
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