I agree. But that could be a bad thing also. Most people are so caught up in driving their cars they pay little attention to proper warmup and cool down (especially turbo engines). I guess people there think idling a car you loose alot of gas, when in reality the air:fuel mixture is like 100:1..
What is the proper application for 15w-50 Mobil 1?
- Thread starter Ron-Indy
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Hi,
heyjay - 'tis warm in my flame suit but at least I can still see out. I'll take it off tomorrow
Dr T - I do not know if your 'SLX" is the same but it is now SL anyway
Our old SH/CF SLX had A3/B3 rating, was Energy Concerving 2 and on their '96 spec. sheet it was;
Porsche Approved,
BMW (Special Oils)listed,
Rover Res22.OL.G4 & PD2, and,
VW500.& 505 (11/92)- the main reason I used it!
Castrol no longer offer a 0w-30 oil in this Country. Castrol "Softec" 0w-30 full synthetic was sold here too - I saw some SJ/CF on the shelf yesterday. I wonder how old that is?
As to early very light viscosity mineral oils, yes they were sold in Europe 30 odd years ago too - and were recommended by some well known Manufacturers of high profile vehicles
And, they were "withdrawn" quickly too and remained sidelined for many years - I wonder why?
But I won't go into that
Regards
heyjay - 'tis warm in my flame suit but at least I can still see out. I'll take it off tomorrow
Dr T - I do not know if your 'SLX" is the same but it is now SL anyway
Our old SH/CF SLX had A3/B3 rating, was Energy Concerving 2 and on their '96 spec. sheet it was;
Porsche Approved,
BMW (Special Oils)listed,
Rover Res22.OL.G4 & PD2, and,
VW500.& 505 (11/92)- the main reason I used it!
Castrol no longer offer a 0w-30 oil in this Country. Castrol "Softec" 0w-30 full synthetic was sold here too - I saw some SJ/CF on the shelf yesterday. I wonder how old that is?
As to early very light viscosity mineral oils, yes they were sold in Europe 30 odd years ago too - and were recommended by some well known Manufacturers of high profile vehicles
And, they were "withdrawn" quickly too and remained sidelined for many years - I wonder why?
But I won't go into that
Regards
WHen the High temps get to 40F or less I recomend changeing out 15W40 in favor of 10W30,0W30 or 5W40! My Dad on the other hand will take M1 15W50 right down to the limit! I have often had to make him chage it out dureing winter. Once his fuel line had water freeze in the feed line. When this happened he still had 15W50 in it.
After years of scalding him for this I know have him trained to change it to M1 10W30 once winter comes. I like to leave myself some extra margin for extreme temp. snaps. Many European car companys recomend 15W50 down to some insane -15.
If you change when it does not get above 40F anymore you will never have anything to worry about!
After years of scalding him for this I know have him trained to change it to M1 10W30 once winter comes. I like to leave myself some extra margin for extreme temp. snaps. Many European car companys recomend 15W50 down to some insane -15.
If you change when it does not get above 40F anymore you will never have anything to worry about!
THe trick is to "Eat your cake and have it too" any one can "Have their cake and eat it too" This saying is often reversed but you will notice an entirely different situation in each version!
Buster I am glad to see you are going to consider the M1 15W50!! I will be very suprised if your consuption does not go down!! I will also be suprised if your UOA does not either stay the same or improve. Either way I doubt any difference in the UOA would be statisticly significant!
If M1 15W50 does not take care of consuption and engine noise the next step up is to get some Penrite 25W70 of 45W70 Synthetic! We can have DOug Hillary ship some to you from OZ!
Doug - maybe you can let me borrow the Asbestos anti-flame suit if it's still warm. Supposed to cool off again to -30 C. Brrrrrr! If the cat refuses to go outside, maybe I should too!
JohnBrowning brings up the cold temp performance of Mobil 1 15W-50. Unless you live where I do - so far this winter have seen ambient temps of -42 F - it really shouldn't be an issue.
The only case is a motor that is very sensitive to cold MRV values. The Vortec 5.3 V8 in my 2000 GMC Sierra truck appears to be one of those sensitive motors, and unless I run Mobil 1 0W-30 in winter, it knocks and clatters like crazy in temps colder than -10 F / -20 C.
Using Esso Protec Extra as a "typical" oil you might find at a service station or quick-lube in Canada, the MRV is 25,000 cP at -35 C and 75,400 at -40 C. Since the absolute MRV limit is 60,000 cP, this 5W-30 oil is useless at -40 but "borderline" at -35 C.
As of Feb of 2003, the last time I checked for detailed specs, Mobil 1 SuperSyn 15W-50 had a rated MRV BPT (60,000 cP) of -37 C / -35 F, with a test MRV of 14,050 at -25 C. This compares quite well to a regular 5W-30 wrt cold pumping performance.
So unless you're having obvious oiling problems, it should be fine even close to the MRV BPT yield limit. With Mobil 1 10W-30 the MRV BPT is lowered to -42.
Of course, you can't blame Mobil 1 of any viscosity for a fuel line freeze. I like to put in STP gas line antifreeze every tank in winter to avoid those issues.
Jerry
JohnBrowning brings up the cold temp performance of Mobil 1 15W-50. Unless you live where I do - so far this winter have seen ambient temps of -42 F - it really shouldn't be an issue.
The only case is a motor that is very sensitive to cold MRV values. The Vortec 5.3 V8 in my 2000 GMC Sierra truck appears to be one of those sensitive motors, and unless I run Mobil 1 0W-30 in winter, it knocks and clatters like crazy in temps colder than -10 F / -20 C.
Using Esso Protec Extra as a "typical" oil you might find at a service station or quick-lube in Canada, the MRV is 25,000 cP at -35 C and 75,400 at -40 C. Since the absolute MRV limit is 60,000 cP, this 5W-30 oil is useless at -40 but "borderline" at -35 C.
As of Feb of 2003, the last time I checked for detailed specs, Mobil 1 SuperSyn 15W-50 had a rated MRV BPT (60,000 cP) of -37 C / -35 F, with a test MRV of 14,050 at -25 C. This compares quite well to a regular 5W-30 wrt cold pumping performance.
So unless you're having obvious oiling problems, it should be fine even close to the MRV BPT yield limit. With Mobil 1 10W-30 the MRV BPT is lowered to -42.
Of course, you can't blame Mobil 1 of any viscosity for a fuel line freeze. I like to put in STP gas line antifreeze every tank in winter to avoid those issues.
Jerry
Hi,
Jerry, thats d**n cold over there
I have just been for a high speed run to a hill top look out over the Whitsunday Islands "mit Porsche" for breakfast - about 80kkms from here
It was 36C and humid all the way with 39C showing on the trip computer at times!
And not a Copper in sight out and back
Just stirring
Most Manufacturer's Handbooks I have seen here list a 15w-* mineral oil as suitable down to -15C
In Denmark we used de-natured Meths as the water/condensation remover and tank anti-freeze -worked well. The "Metho's" still drank it however!
The flame suit is on its way!!
Doug
Jerry, thats d**n cold over there
I have just been for a high speed run to a hill top look out over the Whitsunday Islands "mit Porsche" for breakfast - about 80kkms from here
It was 36C and humid all the way with 39C showing on the trip computer at times!
And not a Copper in sight out and back
Just stirring
Most Manufacturer's Handbooks I have seen here list a 15w-* mineral oil as suitable down to -15C
In Denmark we used de-natured Meths as the water/condensation remover and tank anti-freeze -worked well. The "Metho's" still drank it however!
The flame suit is on its way!!
Doug
I'm thinkin' that -44c (-47f), which IS!!!! the forecast overnight low a couple of days from now, is NOT!!! the ideal application for a 15W50...!!!
God help my poor car...!
God help my poor car...!
Hi,
Geeeman - pull down the shutters, crank up the furnace, roll out the Shiraz
Best of luck - THAT IS COLD
Use Earl Grey tea in the sump - -10w-0 its all you can do. Or Nestle's Nescafe - its a -15W monograde
JOKE!
Regards
Geeeman - pull down the shutters, crank up the furnace, roll out the Shiraz
Best of luck - THAT IS COLD
Use Earl Grey tea in the sump - -10w-0 its all you can do. Or Nestle's Nescafe - its a -15W monograde
JOKE!
Regards
Cool, thanks ill check it out Mr. T.
Geeeman I watch The Weather Network several times a day on my Starchoice dish (Ch 398) and understand your cold temp problem.quote:
Originally posted by geeeman:
I'm thinkin' that -44c (-47f), which IS!!!! the forecast overnight low a couple of days from now, is NOT!!! the ideal application for a 15W50...!!!
God help my poor car...!
I'm not sure what is worse, our fairly consistent cold temps (-20 C to -40 C) or the Alberta Clippers that have mad swings in temp of +4 C down to -44 C.
I believe Mobil 1 15W-50 would need a hammer and chisle to move at that temp. Better stock up on Mobil 1 0W-30. Or stop by your local Esso Bulk dealer and get a case of Esso XD-3 0W-30, it's almost as good and quite a bit cheaper.
I must have heard my low temp forecast wrong yesterday. Instead of reaching a low of -30 C, we bottomed out at -37 C. Now tourists should understand why folks around here are SO eager to build insulated garages for their cars!
Doug - your drive mit Porsche at +37 C represents an absolute difference of 74 degrees to my low this morning. Next January, I'm flying you here in January just to teach you a weather lesson!
Jerry
We had a similar discussion in the past but repetition is a good thing some times.
I couldn't agree more that a 40-50 weight oil will offer better protection in a small engine 1.0-2.5L like those we use in Europe BUT ..if you drive a big 5-8L engine(in Greece we call them American dinosaurs
A well built japan engine won't need heavy oil eitheir and i will have to add here that the Jap's sell more bigger engines in USA than the rest of the world.(No Camry's in Greece-
Now regarding fuel economy ,43.5% of the passager cars sold in Europe in 2003 were diesels (almost 4% more since 2002) and the predictions call for diesel domination in the years ahead.
Tax in diesel fuel is less because diesels emitte less Co2 which causes the greenhouse effect.
And diesels last longer
Good point, though it also never dips to those temps in Greece, right? Must be nice!quote:
Originally posted by yannis:
We had a similar discussion in the past but repetition is a good thing some times.
I couldn't agree more that a 40-50 weight oil will offer better protection in a small engine 1.0-2.5L like those we use in Europe BUT ..if you drive a big 5-8L engine(in Greece we call them American dinosaurs,)i ll put your words here "Heck, you can use salad oil".These big engines equiped with auto trans don't need exotic or heavy oils.
A well built japan engine won't need heavy oil eitheir and i will have to add here that the Jap's sell more bigger engines in USA than the rest of the world.(No Camry's in Greece-=6 years warranty)
Now regarding fuel economy ,43.5% of the passager cars sold in Europe in 2003 were diesels (almost 4% more since 2002) and the predictions call for diesel domination in the years ahead.
Tax in diesel fuel is less because diesels emitte less Co2 which causes the greenhouse effect.
And diesels last longer( all the taxies are diesels.)
I agree 100% on your comment about diesels. Let's see: much better fuel economy = less fuel consumed = less fuel burned = less CO2 emissions.
The thinking here in North America is warped regarding diesel motors. The environmental nuts, and the do-gooder magazine "Consumer Reports," call diesel motors "very bad" as they emit more particulate emissions.
Hmmm, somehow particulate emissions are MUCH worse than overall emissions, including CO2?? True, smog is formed from particulates, but how can some cute little thing like the VW Lupo 3L be ranked the same as a Peterbilt running a giant Cat motor??
Jerry
"For example, factory fill on high-end Mercedes Benz and BMW cars is a 0W-40, and in "extended high speed high temperature conditions" an xW-50 is recommended and/or preferred."
This points to a major difference between European driving conditions and North American ones. Most vehicles sold in Europe must be capable of extended duration autobahn high speed running. Such is illegal in all of North America. Consequently, there are significant engineering differences between Euro products and US product, though these differences are in some cases narrowing.
Does anyone know what oils Honda specifies for their Europe market vehicles? Is 5W-20 still what they call for on that side of the Atlantic?
Although I'm running 5W-20 in my 2003 V-6 Accord here in California, I would be reluctant to do so if my driving routinely hit 130 MPH+ in summer conditions
.
John
This points to a major difference between European driving conditions and North American ones. Most vehicles sold in Europe must be capable of extended duration autobahn high speed running. Such is illegal in all of North America. Consequently, there are significant engineering differences between Euro products and US product, though these differences are in some cases narrowing.
Does anyone know what oils Honda specifies for their Europe market vehicles? Is 5W-20 still what they call for on that side of the Atlantic?
Although I'm running 5W-20 in my 2003 V-6 Accord here in California, I would be reluctant to do so if my driving routinely hit 130 MPH+ in summer conditions
John
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