I'm about to repair some of the wiring under the hood of my Mustang that was chewed off. I'm replacing three connectors. I keep reading differing opinions about each method. Some people say to never solder wires under the hood and only use crimp on connectors and others say to solder them. These are pretty small wires going to these connectors. What methods do you guys prefer and use? Thanks.
What is the best method or repairing under hood wiring, butt connectors or soldering?
- Thread starter wtd
- Start date
It is a very controversial topic, indeed. I have studied it in true BITOG OCD fashion. The car restoration forums will say they have been doing successful soldered vehicle joints forever. Others will chime in and say that the aviation and marine industries rely on crimped connectors exclusively.....that is telling. One supposed problem with soldering is that it will wick back into the wiring and create a brittle area that will crack with vibrations. Crimping? Many think of the bad crimps we do around the home (cheap tools and terminals) and wonder how they could ever do well in a vehicle environment.
The key take away is that either method will work IF you do the job correctly with quality materials, quality tools, and quality methods. Both methods require skill to get correct results. Soldered joints should be secured to avoid movement and vibration. Crimped connections should be done so that you end up with a perfect cold weld, not as easy as the armchair warriors will claim.
I choose quality crimped connections in vehicles. Wait for the onslaught of opinions!!!!!!
The key take away is that either method will work IF you do the job correctly with quality materials, quality tools, and quality methods. Both methods require skill to get correct results. Soldered joints should be secured to avoid movement and vibration. Crimped connections should be done so that you end up with a perfect cold weld, not as easy as the armchair warriors will claim.
I choose quality crimped connections in vehicles. Wait for the onslaught of opinions!!!!!!
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Crimps, almost exclusively. I only solder where necessary.
Either:
- self soldering crimp with shrink tube.
- crimp/shrink tube.
- solder with double wall/adhesive shrink tubing.
- self soldering crimp with shrink tube.
- crimp/shrink tube.
- solder with double wall/adhesive shrink tubing.
Id use adhesive heat shrink butt splices.
I've always loved the phrase, "butt connectors".
Check these out:
Check these out:
Ford wants us to use crimp connectors and then heat shrink over the connector.
This is the way
I just did some 'taps' today.
(Actual electronic tech and Master electrician.)
I come back from connector about 4 inches - just in case.
Selected wire stripper cuts twice, 1/8 apart.
'Pencil' sharpener cuts until I can peel the band off.
The added wire, stripped about an inch, wraps around band TIGHTLY and back to self, wraps self 2-3 times.
Carefully done, I can see where wire enters all 3 insulations.
Solder 'knot' just enough to lock banding together, then other wrap just enough - but no need to wick into insulation.
Tape up as to brace - long leg, 1 short leg, around long leg, other short leg - at least twice, and leave a tail (overlap at very end to pull tape off).
This lasts, and yet is removable with care.
Soldering is always a high heat, fast art form.
(Actual electronic tech and Master electrician.)
I come back from connector about 4 inches - just in case.
Selected wire stripper cuts twice, 1/8 apart.
'Pencil' sharpener cuts until I can peel the band off.
The added wire, stripped about an inch, wraps around band TIGHTLY and back to self, wraps self 2-3 times.
Carefully done, I can see where wire enters all 3 insulations.
Solder 'knot' just enough to lock banding together, then other wrap just enough - but no need to wick into insulation.
Tape up as to brace - long leg, 1 short leg, around long leg, other short leg - at least twice, and leave a tail (overlap at very end to pull tape off).
This lasts, and yet is removable with care.
Soldering is always a high heat, fast art form.
I've always believed that under ideal conditions solder joints are better. That said, for 99% of what we deal with a good, careful crimp with quality connectors (marine, aviation) is the way to go. Good enough for the car, boat and airplane OEM's.
Be careful and use shrink tube, dielectric paste if necessary.
Be careful and use shrink tube, dielectric paste if necessary.
That argument only applies if your soldering is sloppy and you use way too much. If you're repairing wires in a harness, just one butt connector could make stuffing the wires back into the harness impossible.
I do both, but when soldering it's best to use the Western Union splice if you can. 2 wires butt connected that way do not come apart. They didn't have soldering irons, or splice connectors back in the early 1800's with the first commercial electrical device which was the telegraph, replacing the Pony Express.
I have never had a soldered connection fail, or vibration fatigue around it. Any cable vibrating that much will likely develop other issues and should be properly supported or anchored. Electrical tape over solder is probably the bigger item to poke at, since it gets gooey in some environments. Where it counts, I’ll use shrink tubing.
ive personally never developed a good crimp technique, either, so soldering works well. Most of the spade connectors ive used will loosen up and the wire would slide out over time, so when I crimp one on, I’ll solder it.
i Have bought used cars with aftermarket crimps on alarms and radios, not all worked.
ive personally never developed a good crimp technique, either, so soldering works well. Most of the spade connectors ive used will loosen up and the wire would slide out over time, so when I crimp one on, I’ll solder it.
i Have bought used cars with aftermarket crimps on alarms and radios, not all worked.
You stagger the splices and use non-insulated crimps and heat shrink.
If you have a good length of harness to work with.
Thanks for the replies. I have all of the parts and materials for the methods mentioned so I have a few options. Today I practiced with the heat shrink self solder butt connectors using 18 gauge wire. I don't have any smaller wire like the wiring that goes to these connectors to practice with so I used the smallest that I had. It turned out ok but I had a real hard time telling if the solder actually melted or not. I did pull on both ends of the wire and I couldn't pull it apart but I'm still not sure how well the solder flowed on the bare wires.
I'm using a heat gun that has two settings. One at 200 C and the other at 300 C. I used the smallest setting first and then used the higher one when it seemed nothing was happening with the solder at the lower one.
I also have un-insulated butt connectors with the heat shrink with adhesive as options.
I have the low pressure AC switch connector currently that I bought from Ford and it says that for wires 16 AWG and smaller to solder and use heat shrink. For above to use the un-insulated butt connectors provided and then use heat shrink. I believe that the wiring is smaller than 16 AWG.
I'm still waiting for the two VCT solenoid connectors which should be here Friday and they are Motorcraft ones as well.
I'm leaning toward using some type of butt connector over soldering. I'm not that great at regular soldering so I'm not really entertaining that option. I'm still up in the air over the shrink self solder butt connectors. They do make a clean looking repair.
I'm using a heat gun that has two settings. One at 200 C and the other at 300 C. I used the smallest setting first and then used the higher one when it seemed nothing was happening with the solder at the lower one.
I also have un-insulated butt connectors with the heat shrink with adhesive as options.
I have the low pressure AC switch connector currently that I bought from Ford and it says that for wires 16 AWG and smaller to solder and use heat shrink. For above to use the un-insulated butt connectors provided and then use heat shrink. I believe that the wiring is smaller than 16 AWG.
I'm still waiting for the two VCT solenoid connectors which should be here Friday and they are Motorcraft ones as well.
I'm leaning toward using some type of butt connector over soldering. I'm not that great at regular soldering so I'm not really entertaining that option. I'm still up in the air over the shrink self solder butt connectors. They do make a clean looking repair.
Do they recommend insulated ones or un-insulated ones?
How much damage is there?
Have you priced out a complete power train harness?
Have you priced out a complete power train harness?
