What is a good front wheel bearing and hub for a 2008 honda odyssey

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Jun 2, 2007
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Location
Seattle, Washington
I have grinding coming from my front drivers side while making left turns and a little shudder at 65-70. Multiple places suggested a wheel bearing going bad, now its time to figure out what brand to get and where. Any suggestions?
 
... it is good practice to replace the hub with the bearing which is included with the SKF.
I don't think you can do it any other way. The cartridge is pressed in, in such a manner that you can't pull it out. There is nothing to grab on to.
 
I don't think you can do it any other way. The cartridge is pressed in, in such a manner that you can't pull it out. There is nothing to grab on to.

You split the race or weld on it to expand it and it comes right off. What Trav recommended is the easiest for a typical DIY job. It will still require a hub grappler and bearing installer/remover kit, but those are generally available at parts stores here.
 
I don't think you can do it any other way. The cartridge is pressed in, in such a manner that you can't pull it out. There is nothing to grab on to.

Its easy, press the hub out from behind (the inner race and balls will most likely come with it), remove the snap ring, press the bearing outer race out from behind, if reusing the hub remove the inner race stuck on it.
Clean it up and press the new bearing in from the front, install the snap ring then press the hub back in. You can also use a grappler but on many salt belt cars its a bigger PITA than its worth, it is easier just to pull the knuckle and press it.
 
Its easy, press the hub out from behind (the inner race and balls will most likely come with it), remove the snap ring, press the bearing outer race out from behind, if reusing the hub remove the inner race stuck on it.
Clean it up and press the new bearing in from the front, install the snap ring then press the hub back in. You can also use a grappler but on many salt belt cars its a bigger PITA than its worth, it is easier just to pull the knuckle and press it.

I was focused specifically on removing the inner race from the hub in my post above. Didn't think about the job as a whole. Just assumed getting the cartridge bearing out of the hub was understood.

I can't imagine the effort it takes on heavily rusted vehicles. We are definitely spoiled here.
 
SKF, Timken or Beck and Arnley is who makes the best bearings in my opinion. We are always trained to replace them in pairs so that might be something to consider. I agree with Trav it may be best to replace the whole hub and bearing assembly.
 
Go with SKF, it includes the bearing, hub, cv axle nut and snap ring for $131. SKF is great quality and will last. This would be more than double OE for similar quality.



Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for, getting the hub with the bearing in it saves me the hassle of taking it to a machine shop. 130$ isn't bad at all. I'm curious, should I do both front ones at the same time? Just for safety sake?
 
Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for, getting the hub with the bearing in it saves me the hassle of taking it to a machine shop. 130$ isn't bad at all. I'm curious, should I do both front ones at the same time? Just for safety sake?

What do you have for tools? This job will require a press, or bearing installation kit.
 
I would replace both of them since you do them in pairs generally because if one goes the other isn’t far behind generally. And yes the above is correct you will need a slide hammer if you do the hub and bearing assembly but you can borrow one from the parts store for a deposit that is refundable.
 
No, there is generally no need for that, I have done that in the past but I have also seen the other side go on for ages. If you want to spend the time and effort into it then you may or may not be avoiding the same problem in the near future. Your call.
That being said if rust has got to the one that is defective badly like we find here then it is probably not a bad idea. Yes, I am on the fence.
 
Standard and Metric sockets in 3/8 and 1/2 wrenches. No press or bearing install kit.

It may be best if you get the parts and remove the knuckle which is easy enough then take it to a garage and let them press it for you, they wont charge you much then just put the assembled knuckle back on.
You may have to rent a ball joint and tie rod remover.
 
SKF, Timken or Beck and Arnley is who makes the best bearings in my opinion. We are always trained to replace them in pairs so that might be something to consider. I agree with Trav it may be best to replace the whole hub and bearing assembly.
It has been my understanding Beck and Arnley is just rebranded
 
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