What in the HECK is going on with this?

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Over-heating issue, Chrysler LHS, 1997, 3.5 V6.

The car overheated on my wife the other evening. She got it back home, and I found a pin-hole leak in a heater core line (aluminum pipe), and I repaired it. I just sanded off the paint, down to bare aluminum, used some plastic-steel stuff and made a patch, let that set, then wrapped the patched area with some rubber heater hose and used a hose clamp around that.

For good measure (or some would say bad measure) I put in a can of Barr's Leak.
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I refilled the coolant tank and started the car and let the engine warm up, and noted no leaks anywhere.

After the car idled in the driveway about twenty to thirty minutes with no problems, I drove it down the street about a mile and that's when the gauge went all the way to H and the tank started boiling over... I had a 50/50 anti-freeze mix in there.

I got to a gas station and got a water hose and hosed the radiator down until the gauge moved back down about 1/2 way. The tank was too hot to remove the cap to add any more water. I drove back home, and by the time I got home, the gauge was nearly pegged at the H once again.

I thought that the thermostat might be stuck. So after the engine cooled down, I removed the thermostat housing and found not a stuck thermostat, but a thermostat in four pieces.

I replaced that. I figured that the water wasn't being held in the radiator long enough for the electric cooling fans to cool it off, so that explained the over-heating.

I drove the car around town for about an hour with no further trouble.

Then, last night, my wife took it out for a short errand and the darned thing over-heated again. The temp warning light came on, and the gauge was pegged.

I couldn't believe it.
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I called a bud who is a mechanic and he said that I probably needed to bleed the air out of the cooling system. There is a bleeder valve on the thermostat housing so, I added another gallon or so of water to the fill tank and then started the car and let it idle until the thermostat opened up and then the coolant began to shoot out of the bleeder valve (I caught it in a bucket). I let this go on for a while, hoping to make sure there were no air bubbles in the cooling system. Then I closed the valve off and let the car cool, and I poured the coolant from the bucket back into the over-fill tank.

I've driven the car about two hours since doing that, and have had no further problems. The temperature gauge seems to be settled down at around the half-way mark, but I don't know how hot that is, and I must admit that I don't know where it used to run prior to this debacle.

My problem is, I don't have total confidence that the engine is finished boiling over. I'm afraid to take the car more than a mile or two from the house.

Could a head gasket be leaking a bit? Maybe when the thermostat failed and the car over-heated it got so hot that a head warped? My bud (the mechanic) says that isn't likely, because if the gasket was blown the car wouldn't run cool for a while then all of a sudden just over-heat. But I still wonder.

There's no anti-freeze in the oil (that I can see or smell) and none coming from the tail pipe. So if there is a head gasket giving out, it's leeching compression into a cooling channel somehow, and over-pressurizing the cooling system.

Could it have been air bubbles in the cooling system that had things messed up?

I've never had such a problem, so I don't really know how to proceed from here...

Thanks for any advice, comments, or moral support.
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Dan
 
Ya you really gotta bleed some engines to get the air out. All you must do is crack the bleeder untill air stops coming out and tighten it back down.

Are the cooling fans coming on? There is a definate possibility that you may have damaged a headgasket with the overheating.

I think that you should let it run at a fast idle in the driveway for 1/2 hour or so and see what happens. If it seems ok then drive it locally another hour or so. If it does ok it's probly fine.
 
Thanks. I've idled it with the heater turned on for probably around 1/2 hour, and driven around town another 45 minutes or more.

It's okay so far, but as I said, I don't trust it yet.
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I really didn't see very much air come out of the bleeder. Just a few little burps and blurbs...

Just not sure.

Dan
 
Don't mess with the bleeder any more. Your supposed to open it with the engine off and fill the rad. Close it.

Run it untill the stat opens and crack the bleeder, close it when liquid starts coming out. Shut the engine off and ck the level when it's cooled off.
 
Ive had problems like that after replacing a heater core on a Chev Suburban with 5.7
Air can do funny things. I finally just cut the most upper most heater hose and put in one of those things that you can connect a garden hose to and flush. So now it can flush and let air out.
That heater hose was a strange one. As soon as I bled it from there, never a problem again.
It was my fathers Suburban and I fought with it on more then one occasion before I found the heater hose was acting as the highest point in the system.
 
It sounds like you were dealing with the results of air in the system. Some vehicles you have to jack up on a slight hill to assist in getting all the air pockets out. Not sure what plastic-steel stuff you used but if it is something like JB Weld you have from 6 months to 2 years before it start leaking again from my experience.
 
Sometimes you can drill the tiniest hole in the outer flange of the thermostat. This will let any air bubbles by so coolant can touch the wax pellet and activate/open the thermostat. You might loose a teensy amount of fuel economy as the vehicle will take a smidgen longer to warm up. But I've done this to my dakota and it's at "normal" after 3 miles.

Previously my dakota had a minor head gasket leak (2.5-- it's a given) and I put the hole in the thermostat back then under the theory that it was good for purging exhaust gases. Having since fixed the HG, I see no need to close that hole.

Hirev is correct, jack the side opposite the bleeder up and open the bleeder till a stream of antifreeze shoots out. Sounds like you already accomplished this though.
 
quote:

I've idled it with the heater turned on for probably around 1/2 hour, and driven around town another 45 minutes or more.

Sure ...but do the fans come on?? By using the heater you're creating a false cooling. Until you confirm for us that the fans indeed cycle ..you could have a faulty coolant temp sensor for all you know
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I had this happen on my Caravan (granted OBDI so probably the reason there was no code). I just realized one day that the fans weren't cycling when I was in traffic or stopped.
 
Barr's leak fixer will also fill 'holes' in the small tubes to the overflow system, the radiator cap (which also seems to allow coolant to flow back and forth between the overflow system and the the rest of the cooling system), the thermostat, and ?

If the coolant can't flow from the overflow system to the rest of the engine it will tend to suck air from somewhere. Good luck purging the Barr's out of the system.
 
Appreciate all of the info.

I think it just needed a good burping. After the previously mentioned opening of the air bleeder valve, the car seems fine. I drove it just about all day today in stop and go traffic, and I ran the A/C some of the time. I let it idle for a total of an hour and a half... it stayed cool.

My mechanic friend said that he like to never got a 340cid Dodge truck engine to stop over-heating after he changed a thermostat in it earlier this year. He said there was no bleeder valve on that thermostat housing. Basically, he just kept working with the cooling system until it settled down...

I'm used to old cars. Easier to work on.
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The electric fans are working properly, and kicking in/out when they should--best I can tell.

1sttruck, I probably should not have (in retrospect) used the Barr's leak stuff. My friend razzed me about that too...
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Only problem now is that I've got mostly water in the cooling system. Only about a 25% anti-freeze mixture in there, so I'll need to drain and re-fill with some more anti-freeze soon.

I also wonder how the SuperTech 10W40 HM oil which I had just put in the engine faired through the two temperature spikes...

I've been meaning to AutoRX this engine. Might be a good time to go ahead and do it. She's got about 155K on her now.

Thanks again for all the help!

Dan
 
I don't know. I also had the therostat housing off. I think the Haynes manual should be a bit more clear as to how to purge the air out of the system after a repair or a flush.

If it's in there, I couldn't find it...

Dan
 
Be careful drilling the thermostat for an air bleed. I did that on my turbo Caravan and got the hole a little too big. Now it overcools, not a problem with temps in the 80's, but it won't completely warm up when the temps are on the cool side. Ok for now, but will have to replace it this fall.

On a side note, I have had terrible luck reciently with aftermarket thermostats. Will be getting an OEM one from Dodge next time.
 
FTM: How had the thermostat broken into four pieces? Pics? Is it possible there is a piece unaccounted for and causing a blockage? What was the history of the coolant in the car until the overheating?
 
I threw away the pieces of the thermostat. It is possible that there could be a piece that is still in the system somewhere. It would be a very tiny piece if it is... the four pieces were the spring, the main circular shroud, the tower that held the spring, and a rod about an inch long that presses the stat open as the spring compresses. It seemed to all be there, but it was so mangled up it was hard to tell for sure...

The coolant was, I'm ashamed to say
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the original coolant that the car came with as far as I know. We got the car with 64K on it. I never had changed it...
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By the way, we drove the car again today and still all is well.
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Dan
 
Oldmoparguy, there's no need to toss the old thermostat. Just pound some soft metal (like a lead BB) in the hole, or solder it closed.
 
I did find this list of when you have this heating or air in the coolant system of causes -

1) improper coolant refill and/or flush,
2) bad radiator cap,
3) leaks in hoses and/or clamps,
4) leak in heater control valve, and
5) blown head gasket.
 
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