I had a chance to look at a turbo charged 99 volvo xc70 with 70k. The car looked nice and all but when I opened the oil filler cap, I noticed lots of carbon and when looking through the oil filler hole, the engine just did not look clean with imminent sludge build up potential. It just seemed like the previous owner did not put synthetic in the turbo charged engine. Even my 160K naturally inspired 2.9L I6 volvo 960 engine looked much cleaner when looking through the oil filler hole. Am I making a sound decision just by looking through the engine by removing the oil filler cap? How about turbo charged Subarus that have long oil filler "neck" that you just cannot see through it?
What do you look for when buying a car with TURBO
- Thread starter LOLVO
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You might want to read the thread below. I used the google search to find this thread, it seems to work better.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1314044&fpart=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1314044&fpart=1
Good link.
Unless you can get it at a substantial discount I would avoid the car. But if the price is right...
Some people say today's conventional oils are pretty good in turbos....
....I think not so much.
Unless you can get it at a substantial discount I would avoid the car. But if the price is right...
Some people say today's conventional oils are pretty good in turbos....
100% agree with Pablo.
If I'm seriously considering a ten year old turbo car under the best of circumstances, I have the money for a new turbo in my pocket.
Or stay away from turbos.
If I'm seriously considering a ten year old turbo car under the best of circumstances, I have the money for a new turbo in my pocket.
Or stay away from turbos.
Kestas
Staff member
OTOH, a turbo is just one part of the car. So what... if the car is in good shape otherwise, it may be a good buy, even with the neglected oil. Replacing the turbo is a lot easier than repairing the body.
Are you making a sound decision?... I'd say you're making an informed decision.
Are you making a sound decision?... I'd say you're making an informed decision.
Thank you for your inputs. The picture in the link says it all. It's similar to what I have seen from a 1999 xc70. Although the car may run well, I do not want to buy a car with sludged engine. I do not want to bother with AutoRx either. I also looked at the dipstick for ATF, it looked like the fluid had never been changed. The price was $4,800, but there were lots of parts to be replaced and it would cost about $2,300 including labor to have it inspected in Maryland. The salesman said I could do the work myself to save money and bring the car back, but I do not want to be bothered with it. It's nothing major, but it's just a lot of small things, like outer tie rod. It was a list of 15 different parts.
If the dealer didn't want to put the money in to get it inspected RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN!!!! They don't pay retail labor rates and if the mechanics are idle anyway they could fix this thing real cheap.
Not only are they trying to sell it as-is/wholesale, they're trying to weasel out of some sort of consumer protection law that says the thing has to be roadworthy for a very short time (3 to 7 DAYS, read your state law.) They don't think you'll make it that far without incurring a CEL (which you may flunk for... IDK) or who knows what...
If you want to make a fast friend flash $800 in cash at the salesman and say you read on the internet it's a bad deal.
Not only are they trying to sell it as-is/wholesale, they're trying to weasel out of some sort of consumer protection law that says the thing has to be roadworthy for a very short time (3 to 7 DAYS, read your state law.) They don't think you'll make it that far without incurring a CEL (which you may flunk for... IDK) or who knows what...
If you want to make a fast friend flash $800 in cash at the salesman and say you read on the internet it's a bad deal.
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