Just curious.. i plan i keeping my car forever.. just wondering what shops do when. "rebuild your Engine or Transmission".
What do you do when Rebulding a Tranny or eng?
- Thread starter Korean_redneck
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Easy!
General practice as follows:
With the engine block off:
(1)disassemble all parts, inspect and replace/order if deemed out-of-spec/worm
(2)clean the block/head (steam/solvent/hot-tank, etc.)
(3)inspect the bock/heads for cracks, distortion, etc. and service them if necessary (press another new iron sleeve for alloy blocks, new valve guides, etc.)
(4) machine the valve seats and also cylinder wall (deglaze if the original ones w/n spec., machine&hone if a new one is pressed)
(5)inspect crank/camshafts for abnormal wear and such, replace/restore to proper specifications based on observations (grind crankshaft if surface imperfections occur)
Most likely you may have to get some oversized crankshaft/cam bearings(if applicable) to match the newly grounded undersized crankshafts.
(6)(back to step 4), if the original cylinder bore is to be reused/new cylinder pressed and machined, sometimes, new oversized pistons maybe required.
(7)Start reassembling everything together, taking every possible precautions during the assembling stage.New cylinder head gasket kits, ring packs, bearings, seals, water pumps, timing belt/chains, valve seals, valves(if necessary, often exhaust valves), pistons (if necessary), cam/crank bearings, etc.)
(8) RE the engine back into the car and fire it up.
(9) test drive! (check for leaks)
(10) during the test drive stage, most shops will break in the engine until smoke disappears before passing the car back to the customer.
************************************************
of course, this is just the typical RE and RE of engine (aka "rebuild"). Some shops skimp on steps, others do a much thorough job in preparing the steps/adhering to the rigid steps outlined.
I would normally blueprint my engine (with the exception of the crankshafts for I will have to ship that down to CA for balancing) during rebuild. As a result: smooth, balanced power output with very good revving characteristics.
Less stress on the bearings also.
General practice as follows:
With the engine block off:
(1)disassemble all parts, inspect and replace/order if deemed out-of-spec/worm
(2)clean the block/head (steam/solvent/hot-tank, etc.)
(3)inspect the bock/heads for cracks, distortion, etc. and service them if necessary (press another new iron sleeve for alloy blocks, new valve guides, etc.)
(4) machine the valve seats and also cylinder wall (deglaze if the original ones w/n spec., machine&hone if a new one is pressed)
(5)inspect crank/camshafts for abnormal wear and such, replace/restore to proper specifications based on observations (grind crankshaft if surface imperfections occur)
Most likely you may have to get some oversized crankshaft/cam bearings(if applicable) to match the newly grounded undersized crankshafts.
(6)(back to step 4), if the original cylinder bore is to be reused/new cylinder pressed and machined, sometimes, new oversized pistons maybe required.
(7)Start reassembling everything together, taking every possible precautions during the assembling stage.New cylinder head gasket kits, ring packs, bearings, seals, water pumps, timing belt/chains, valve seals, valves(if necessary, often exhaust valves), pistons (if necessary), cam/crank bearings, etc.)
(8) RE the engine back into the car and fire it up.
(9) test drive! (check for leaks)
(10) during the test drive stage, most shops will break in the engine until smoke disappears before passing the car back to the customer.
************************************************
of course, this is just the typical RE and RE of engine (aka "rebuild"). Some shops skimp on steps, others do a much thorough job in preparing the steps/adhering to the rigid steps outlined.
I would normally blueprint my engine (with the exception of the crankshafts for I will have to ship that down to CA for balancing) during rebuild. As a result: smooth, balanced power output with very good revving characteristics.
Less stress on the bearings also.
wow thanks! How much do these jobs cost? like 4 or 5 grand?
A "standard" RE and RE: for imports (just replacing stock bearings, check/inspect cam/crankshafts for wear, check and replace out-of-spec valve guides, machine the original cylinder (1 size larger, inc. oversized pistons), and machine the original intake/exhaust valves to spec. (inc. up to 4 exhaust valve replacement for typical 4 cyl, 16valve DOHC varieties, with domestic aftermarket replacement valves), typically runs around 4K CAD.
Some charge you more, some charge you less. A full-service is labour-intensive you know.
Domestics are usually cheaper (because of parts costs).
YMMV.
Blueprinting/dynamic crankshaft balancing usually costs a few thousands more.
Some charge you more, some charge you less. A full-service is labour-intensive you know.
Domestics are usually cheaper (because of parts costs).
YMMV.
Blueprinting/dynamic crankshaft balancing usually costs a few thousands more.
I wouldn't get a manual transmission rebuilt unless I wanted special functions added. I'm in the process of hauling out a 5 speed manual with 400,000 km on it that my dad blew up. Replacment cost will be 300 CDN for a used VW transmission plus another 150 or more for me to change ALL seals.
Steve
Steve
I have seen first hand the quality of the goodwrench engines (2 of them) and have heard many more stories of poor quality control on them. stay away! far, far away.quote:
Originally posted by Ugly3:
In the States you can buy a Chevy 350 "Goodwrench" brand new engine for about $2,000.
There is overhaul, rebuild or remanufacture. The problem is that there is no universally accepted definition of those terms. You really have to ask each shop what THEY will do for you and at what cost.
The minimum would be disassemble, clean and inspect, then reassemble using new seals and bearings and rings, but otherwise all of your own parts. I have done this myself if all of the "hard" parts pass inspection for as little as $400, including machine shop charges.
The other extreme is to save the block casting and replace everything else with new parts.
The minimum would be disassemble, clean and inspect, then reassemble using new seals and bearings and rings, but otherwise all of your own parts. I have done this myself if all of the "hard" parts pass inspection for as little as $400, including machine shop charges.
The other extreme is to save the block casting and replace everything else with new parts.
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