What coolant to use on a 2002 Lincoln 4.6L DOHC

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The Motorcraft chart indicates exactly what to do if you have green coolant previously in there.

Quote:

GY = Factory-filled with green-colored engine coolant. Service as normal with green-colored engine coolant, or service with yellow-colored engine coolant with the following important conditions:

I. If the green-colored engine coolant is thoroughly flushed out of the cooling system and then the system is filled with yellow-colored engine coolant, the
service maintenance (change-out) intervals of the yellow-colored engine coolant can be followed.

II. If the green-colored engine coolant is not completely flushed out of the cooling system (e.g., yellow-colored engine coolant is used to top off the system),
then the service maintenance (change-out) intervals of the green-colored engine coolant must be followed.


Prior to starting this task, verify you can get the camaro out of the garage.
grin.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
The Motorcraft chart indicates exactly what to do if you have green coolant previously in there.

Quote:

GY = Factory-filled with green-colored engine coolant. Service as normal with green-colored engine coolant, or service with yellow-colored engine coolant with the following important conditions:

I. If the green-colored engine coolant is thoroughly flushed out of the cooling system and then the system is filled with yellow-colored engine coolant, the
service maintenance (change-out) intervals of the yellow-colored engine coolant can be followed.

II. If the green-colored engine coolant is not completely flushed out of the cooling system (e.g., yellow-colored engine coolant is used to top off the system),
then the service maintenance (change-out) intervals of the green-colored engine coolant must be followed.


Prior to starting this task, verify you can get the camaro out of the garage.
grin.gif




Thanks Simple_gifts. You can be sure the Camaro will be taken into account...lol.

The issue following the Ford recommendations is that I have no idea what's been in the system after the FF was dumped long before I got the car. And in the several flushes I have had done in Indy shops, I don't know what they used either. Baseline is this week....starting fresh with something.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Confusion cleared up!
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13 years ago, this excellent 2004 Paul Weissler article was the go-to reference to clear up this confusion: https://www.motor.com/magazinepdfs/082004_04.pdf


The one single "possible" advantage mentioned in the article regarding the use of conventional green coolant is:

"Original equipment coolants are validated for factory replacement parts. One of the issues that may arise is the use of an aftermarket replacement radiator or heater core made of copper-brass with lead solder. We have in previous articles pointed out that today's coolant inhibitor packages contain a small amount of copper-brass protection, but may provide little protection if a radiator is made with high-lead solder. Results of industry standard tests of the new Toyota extended-life coolant now show a substantial weight loss (corrosion), both in a 50-50 mix and in a 33% coolant mixture (solder corrosion is much greater in this more diluted solution).

If you have to change a radiator or heater core, use aluminum. Or, if it's an older car and the owner wants the lowest-cost radiator, you might procure a soldered-together copper-brass unit. Conventional American coolant should provide better protection against solder corrosion, which can result in radiator tube restrictions and leaks. But no coolant provides perfect protection.
"

Another important thing to remember is that today's conventional green coolant is low silicate, not the "snot nose green coolant of death" of yesteryear. Check out the Zerex tech. pages to see that conventional green and G-O5 have nearly the same silicate concentrations and they both claim 5 year life. Although, I still would change the green coolant more often.

Since you stated that you used OAT coolant for top ups, if it was mine, I would do a complete flush before installing your new coolant. Mixing coolants might not cause catastrophic failure, but there is no need to do it and why risk interfering with today's delicate coolant chemistry.
G-05/Premium Gold does have some silicate in it, as do the modern conventional green AFs such as Zerex-the problem with green, if left in too long, the silicate starts dropping out, filling bottom radiator tanks, and can even clog radiator passages. First time I changed the coolant filter on my F-450 IDI 7.3, it looked like the filter was half-full of sand.
 
Quote:
...The issue following the Ford recommendations is that I have no idea what's been in the system after the FF was dumped long before I got the car. And in the several flushes I have had done in Indy shops, I don't know what they used either.

Unless you choose to not follow the FoMoCo recommendation for AF now, I don't see what difference it makes what was used in the past. What's done is done.

G05 is a low silicate Long Life HOAT. Original/conventional "green" is a silicate IAT AF with a generally shorter service interval. In this case in the 4.6L, GO5 is the preferable choice because of it's longer service interval and low silicate formula as recommended by Ford. So, with complete exchange/flush all of whatever is in there is out, and G05 is in as Ford recommended.

If you don't want to do a complete flush especially considering the unknown make up of the system then it's a [censored] shoot. That said, with good advice given on which AF to use as queried, it's your ride, your call.
 
Paul Weissler article update in August 2010

That article discusses where Ford was headed with coolants in 2010....and they were headed from HOAT to OAT longer term. But some very specific warnings about gasket and metal incompatibility with the OATs, especially on the older engines including the 4.6L V8's, which is why they need the yellow HOAT around a while longer. Zerex or Ford MC G05 does seem to be the best bet with the newer low silicate Zerex Green at 2nd best.
 
Originally Posted By: boxcartommie22
I USE FINAL CHARGE IN MY 2001 CONTI..FOR YEARS


Can you be a little more clear what that means? Are you saying you ran the last coolant change in your Lincoln for a very long time...5 yrs? 10 yrs? Exactly how many years? What type of coolant?
 
I get it now. "Final Charge" is Peak's version of what Prestone does. Same stuff, different name.
 
Quote:
..... "Final Charge" is Peak's version of what Prestone does. Same stuff, different name.

Not exactly. Unlike Prestone, Final Charge Global does not contain 2eha as an inhibitor. https://www.peakhd.com/wp-content/upload...ires.pdf?x38462. That makes it most similar the automotive version Peak Global Lifetime, LL OAT AF with no 2eha.

Old World/Peak's closest version to Prestone is Peak Long Life, LL OAT which contains 2eha.
 
OK. Plenty of choices in brands out there for sure. Thanks.

I did end up going with the Zerex G05 from Napa at $16.19/gall on sale after performing 8-9 drains/refills with distilled water on the system. Had 2 full - 5 gallon containers of used anti-freeze for my recycling center. And it was quite clear from what came out that the previous fill was done with plain old dark green AF (same as original factory spec).
 
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