So, a couple years ago I bought a Ford Explorer and went from a Chevy Tahoe and a 5.3L V8 to a 2.3L 4 cylinder turbo. I was expecting it to be somewhat underpowered but, I was shocked at how snappy it is. I have never owned anything but V8’s prior to this and have turned into a believer in small block turbo’s. So much so when I was looking to buy a new truck I got a new 2023 Silverado with a 2.7L Turbo and am very happy with the package. My question is since the GM 2.7L Turbo is not port injected I’m hearing it is prone to having carbon problems with the valves and to change oil every three thousand miles, is it best to use a real high detergent oil? I might be a believer in how the small block turbo’s perform but I don’t know how well they hold up and want to give both vehicles every advantage.
What about Turbo’s?
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This is truly a what you don't know, won't hurt you. You don't have an old VW or Audi which tend to have carbon build up which eventually require cleaning. And people that have Hondas with fuel dilation worry when those engines hold up anyways.
Me? I'd change the oil every 5K miles using the specified viscosity that meets the latest GM rerequirment for that engine.
Want to give it every advantage? Don't run 87 octane in it on a 95 degree day.
Me? I'd change the oil every 5K miles using the specified viscosity that meets the latest GM rerequirment for that engine.
Want to give it every advantage? Don't run 87 octane in it on a 95 degree day.
That would be a good idea in any turbo. Oil is cheap but engine work isn't. Any oil that meets whatever specs are called for is fine.
Modern VAG engines still suffer from carbon deposits, unless they're also port injected in addition to being direct injected.
Wife's Q5 has 70K miles and already needs cleaning.
Also, I don't see how frequent oil changes can prevent carbon buildup in a DI engine.
I do 5k oil changes and have accepted the idea that I'll probably have to do a walnut blast in the 100-150K area. Just like I accept that my Honda cars get a timing belt around that time. I just add it to the list of stuff to maintain.
This is on my 2.3EB that gets worked hard when we camp.
This is on my 2.3EB that gets worked hard when we camp.
People are scared of them and I am one of them. I do like simple and reliable.
That said, diesels have been using them for a while now and are known to be pretty reliable. My wife has a Volvo S60 2.4t with 230k. Zero issues with the turbo.
Then again, I have a co worker with a turbo Cruze that has been terrible.
That said, diesels have been using them for a while now and are known to be pretty reliable. My wife has a Volvo S60 2.4t with 230k. Zero issues with the turbo.
Then again, I have a co worker with a turbo Cruze that has been terrible.
There are several companies that make a catch can ("oil separator," etc.) that can help keep valve deposits in check. I installed a Ford catch can on the Mustang. I pour about an ounce of crud out of it every time I check it, which is about every 1,500 miles.
Oil volatility, evaporates from oil, do get pulled through the PCV system and deposited on the intake valves. Synthetic oils are better here.
Have 2 turbos in the family, Daughters 2020 KIA Soul Turbo GT and my 2017 Buick Regal GS with the 2.0T, have them both on a 5K OCI and run Premium in my GS, Daughter runs 89. 5w30 is recommended by both makers, I wouldn't worry, just run a good synthetic oil and change at 5K, you'll be fine. 
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I thought one of the many things the ILSAC GF6 spec was supposed to accomplish was less carbonization for GDI intake valves? Is there a way to tell which GF6 approved brand is more detergent than another?
Some say a oil catch can will help, some say it makes no difference as most of what your catching is condensation not oil anyway. I have no idea. I presume it can not hurt either way.
My research on the www led me to believe its a function of how you drive more than anything - as some people have the problem and some don't with the same cars.
I personally believe it has more do do with exhaust gas getting back into the intake from the extended Atkinson synthetic valve overlap control algorithms than it has to do with oil, but that is pure speculation on my part.
Some say a oil catch can will help, some say it makes no difference as most of what your catching is condensation not oil anyway. I have no idea. I presume it can not hurt either way.
My research on the www led me to believe its a function of how you drive more than anything - as some people have the problem and some don't with the same cars.
I personally believe it has more do do with exhaust gas getting back into the intake from the extended Atkinson synthetic valve overlap control algorithms than it has to do with oil, but that is pure speculation on my part.
Yes, but this happens regardless if the oil is new or used, no?
Why the worry about turbos? Decades ago I agree that a turbo charged gasoline engine was troublesome.
Parts and equipment has gotten better.
Any modern turbocharged engine has been designed from the block up to handle forced induction from a turbo charger.
The days are over of simply slapping a turbo on an engine. This engines have been strictly designed to be turbocharged and handle the abuse
Almost every diesel engine on the highway is turbocharged and still far more reliable than most gasoline engines.
Use a quality oil and you will be fine.
I'd be more concerned about pushing out a head gasket than a turbocharger failing or other engine component failing from wear from inferior oil quality.
Parts and equipment has gotten better.
Any modern turbocharged engine has been designed from the block up to handle forced induction from a turbo charger.
The days are over of simply slapping a turbo on an engine. This engines have been strictly designed to be turbocharged and handle the abuse
Almost every diesel engine on the highway is turbocharged and still far more reliable than most gasoline engines.
Use a quality oil and you will be fine.
I'd be more concerned about pushing out a head gasket than a turbocharger failing or other engine component failing from wear from inferior oil quality.
I could be wrong here… But new oil is much, much less susceptible to volatilization vs oil with more miles and time on it.
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From the OP he is worried about carbon build up from the GDI - not really a turbo issue although it seems turbo engines tend to have a little more trouble with it than naturally aspirated - purely from anecdotal comments on the www (which are never wrong - HAHAHA).
Nice engine!
DI engines will have some carbon buildup on the intake valves but the amount varies based on the manufacturer and not all DI engines have running problems because of it. Changing the oil sooner won't have an impact and in fact it has been alleged to possibly make it worse depending on the quality of the oil used. We'll talk more about it once you're out of warranty.
This 4 cylinder engine has a large sump at 6 quarts so I wouldn't have any concerns about going the full oil change interval recommended by GM.
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That's what I was wondering. Can anyone share any links that would confirm this?
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