Well, I had to do it. QS 5w50 synthetic

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OK guys. I said to neurotic self, I had to try this after a dare from someone on this site. They said, "WHy doesn't someone use it"? Its a PAO. It meets the A-3 and alll those requirments GC meets so, again I say what the hell.

Dumped the oil for about 3 hours, just let it drip, and drip and drip. OH YEAH, I GOT MY G3 FRAM OIL DRAIN PUT ON! Going to make life so much simpler. Put on a K&N 1010. And 5 qts of Quaker State 5w50 synthetic oil. Don't know much more then that except, hey it runs, its quiet. ANd I am not making any more claims until I see what this oil does.

I did put it to my gas stove pan test. High heat. No smoking, no burning. just the occasional bubble. Like the Mobil 1. Take a dino and do that and see how many smoke detectors go off in the house. so hey looks like a good oil so far. Meets more requirments then Mobil 1. Lets open our minds, this oil could take us from Spring all the way to winter. I like the idea of one oil. High heat protection of the 50 wt with the cold wt of the 5. Bring it on.

I do have to say. and this is confirmed, I get NO lifter noise or whatever it is with the K&N filter. So I think a good filter is worth the money. no matter which oil you use. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Maybe we can send my first oil test in for this QS 5/50. Im sure there are some poeople who are wondering.

QS used to have a great oil, back in the 80's/ I remember using the Quaker State DeLux oil.

But NEVER, OH NEVER USE THE PENZOIL BACK THEN. MAYBE THINGS HAVE CHANGED.
 
quote:

Originally posted by oilrecovery2003:
Maybe we can send my first oil test in for this QS 5/50. Im sure there are some poeople who are wondering.

Please do send it in for analysis, many of us here are looking forward to the results, including myself!

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Dr. T. I mean no disrespect, However, the reason why my question stated "50" was because I was referring to the hot viscosity . It may start out at 5 but its still 50 weight when hot. and 50 is still pretty heavy for michigan in the winter. btw: why would it not be a 50 weight textbook? Like I said no disrespect...maybe I'm confused in my split weight concepts.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Dr. T:
Well, actually....it's both a 50 and a 5...hence, a 5-50. The W is attached to the 5 meaning it certifies as a winter weight oil. The second number is somewhat (textbook) irrelevant as it refers to the oil's hot viscosity.

In either case, that's great....I was thinking about trying it too this morning while I was in the shower...
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Hehe, I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who thinks about oil when he's in the shower (or sitting in front of the TV, or driving in traffic, or when I'm having Christmas dinner with the inlaws....)
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The one thing I do worry about when it comes to a 5w50 oil is the amount of VII needed to span that gap. Also, if you look at the 40C viscosity on any 5w50 oil, it's usually pretty thick, close to 100cst, compared to 50-60cst for the typical 5w30 oil at 40c. So I wonder how can it possibly get the cold cranking numbers needed to make it a 5w oil? Or does it just barely qualify, and then quickly changes into a 10w oil? I wouldn't be surprised to find out that after 3000 miles, most 5w50 oils turn into 10w40. Although I'd be more worried about Syntec 5w50 doing this, since it's a group 3, and not quite as worried (but still somewhat worried) about a PAO based oil doing it.

Either way, the UOA results will be interesting here! I think most engines built today would see lower wear with a 5w40 over a 5w50 though. Even 5w40 could be too thick for a lot of tight clearance engines.
 
quote:

Originally posted by jsharp:
I'll be surprised if this oil doesn't end up as a 10W-40 in just a few thousand miles. I wish labs would give us a 40C viscosity...

Wearcheck Canada and Wearcheck USA both give viscosity at 40c at no extra charge if you ask for it (and I always do!).
 
quote:

I'll be surprised if this oil doesn't end up as a 10W-40 in just a few thousand miles. I wish labs would give us a 40C viscosity...

Thats an insane spread to cover. A 0w-30 is as far as I will go....I shear stable 0w-30 like GC or Amsoil that is.
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quote:

Originally posted by buster:

quote:

I'll be surprised if this oil doesn't end up as a 10W-40 in just a few thousand miles. I wish labs would give us a 40C viscosity...

Thats an insane spread to cover. A 0w-30 is as far as I will go....


That's why I'm also curious about an oil like the BMW specified 10w60, that's one of the most insane spreads of all! I cannot imagine that oil possibly being perfectly shear stable. What's next, 0w70?
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quote:

Originally posted by dustyjoe1:
50 wt in michigan in the winter? What did you put it in?

Joe, it's not '50 wt' oil, it starts out as 5-viscosity* oil and then gets thinner as it warms.


*--no such thing as 'weight' in the designation. The numbers deal with thickness (viscosity). The 'W' in the designation stands for Winter.
 
Well, actually....it's both a 50 and a 5...hence, a 5-50. The W is attached to the 5 meaning it certifies as a winter weight oil. The second number is somewhat (textbook) irrelevant as it refers to the oil's hot viscosity.

In either case, that's great....I was thinking about trying it too this morning while I was in the shower...
burnout.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by sprintman:
Patman show me a 'tight clearance engine'? Brand & model no please...s

I'm no engine builder, but I would assume that most of the modern Japanese engines are built fairly tight, especially the ones which seem to do very well using a 5w20 oil.
 
[/qb][/QUOTE]I'm no engine builder, but I would assume that most of the modern Japanese engines are built fairly tight, especially the ones which seem to do very well using a 5w20 oil. [/QB][/QUOTE]

Remember that the owners manual for most countries other than the U.S. calls for 30wt and up oils in these same engines .
 
[/qb][/QUOTE]That's why I'm also curious about an oil like the BMW specified 10w60, that's one of the most insane spreads of all! I cannot imagine that oil possibly being perfectly shear stable. What's next, 0w70?
shocked.gif
[/QB][/QUOTE]

That stuff is a wild concoction of PAO Diester Group III and Neutral oils .

On the other hand " perfectly " shear stable oils does not really mean one will get the best wear protection and wear protection is what it's all about in a OCI with some realm of normalty .
 
Motorbike, my 1979 fiat strada had a 1.5 liter engine bragging about 79 hp. the same engine in european trim was around 100 hp. Maybe the engines aren't exactly the same. I understand that higher performace engines tend to have looser tolerences...looser tolerences - heavier oil. Maybe?
 
patman:
actually a 10w-60 is less of a spread than a 5w-50.

Why?

Cuz the base oil is twice as thick so a diffrence in 50 is "less" than one of 45.


Others: A couple of members posts, show they still don't fully understand multiviscosity.
Do a search plz, there are some good explanations on this site.

Fred..
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quote:

Originally posted by palmerwmd:
patman:
actually a 10w-60 is less of a spread than a 5w-50.

Why?

Cuz the base oil is twice as thick so a diffrence in 50 is "less" than one of 45.



That might not always be the case though, it totally depends on how the manufacturer created that oil. You could have two oils both being 10w60, but one starts out with a different thickness of base oil than the other. Either way you look at it, those kinds of viscosity spreads usually don't result in a very stable oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Motorbike:

Remember that the owners manual for most countries other than the U.S. calls for 30wt and up oils in these same engines .


True, I realize that, however my point is that if these engines show good wear numbers when using a 5w20 oil, then obviously their clearances must be tighter than most engines. A loose clearance engine running 5w20 wouldn't show good UOAs unless it was driven 100% on the highway and not driven full throttle too often. (in other words if I put 5w20 in my LT1 Firebird I'd probably be in trouble)
 
What I meant is the "textbook" definition of a 50 weight (as in 5-50) will mean that it is considerably thicker than a 30 weight (as in a 5-30) when hot...ie. 100C.

In other words, the second number has no bearing on cold temperature conditions by the textbook definition of a 5W-xx. All 5W-xx should perform within an acceptable range at -25C. The second number making no diference where it was a 30, 40 or 50 weight.

However, in "reality", a 5-50 will be somewhat thicker than a 5-30 in extreme cold. But, both oils qualify as a 5W with respect to cold cranking conditions.

5-50 oils have been around a long time and I see no problems in using them. I look at them as a step up from using a 5-40 which should be the min. requirement for anyone that cares about what oil they use. They're especially usefull for us those experiencing temps down to -30C where a 15-50 would be too thick.
 
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