Wear on the lip/outside of tire?

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Nov 12, 2020
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Chicago, IL
I was on youtube watching Nathans BMW Workshop (Don't judge I was bored :ROFLMAO: ) about how his rear tires have wear on them.

My front tires (rear tires before I got a rotation) have minor wear(the tread on the outside is less than the tread on the inside). But not to the point where the tires are cracking and what not. Is my camber off on the rear(the front tires that are on the rear now have no wear)? I had an alignment when my indy did the front thrust arm bushings last year in Jan.

The previous owner put these Pirelli P-Zero tires in 2018 at 61k miles. I'm sitting at 72k miles right now.

I got an alignment when my Indy shop did the front control arms.

Here's the video if anyone cares:


Here are some pictures I just took(ignore my big ass hand :ROFLMAO:).

From the tread wear tool, all the tires seem to have the same amount of thread But when I put my finger in them, they feel sorta off.

The first picture is the front tire. Second is the rear
 

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You need to get it looked at by a pro. It could be a number of things. Bad control arm bushings, for instance, can allow the rear tow to be different while driving than sitting stationary on the alignment rack.
 
OP, the online store "Headlight Depot" has great prices to replace fogged over headlights. Check them out. There prices are much lower than you would expect them to be. And they pack the box very well with foam protection so they will arrive without damage. I did not check for you, but I would say there is a better than 90 % chance they stock what you need.
 
You need to get it looked at by a pro. It could be a number of things. Bad control arm bushings, for instance, can allow the rear tow to be different while driving than sitting stationary on the alignment rack.
I had the front control arm bushing replaced. I had my BMW mechanic do the alignment.
 
OP, the online store "Headlight Depot" has great prices to replace fogged over headlights. Check them out. There prices are much lower than you would expect them to be. And they pack the box very well with foam protection so they will arrive without damage. I did not check for you, but I would say there is a better than 90 % chance they stock what you need.
 

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I bought both headlight assemblies consisting of front new lens glued to new reflectors, new sockets, new wires, new connectors, and all new bulbs including turn signals for our 2001 Impala with shipping, all for less than $100.00 from Headlight Depo. And the bulbs were good quality that were bright and none ever burned out for the years we owned it after that.
 
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I had a 2014 Mercedes that had a similar issue. Took it to the dealership and they did an alignment check, everything was correct with no bad parts, etc. In my opinion, all alignments are a tradeoff of some type, performance/handling VS tire wear. In reality these aren't too bad since the tires are pretty much gone anyway.
Mercedes answer, which I wasn't too thrilled with, was to rotate the tires more often, like every oil change.
The 2018 E300 I currently drive still has a bit of this going on, but to a lesser degree. Maybe it's a German thing?
 
Many cars today spec a lot of camber, and if the toe isn't exactly at spec, you may experience uneven wear. German cars are well known for this, and they don't seem to be too concerned about the tire wear.
 
I would hope not as the mcpherson setup at the front of BMW will not compensate for camber loss during roll. I'd expect them to run 0.5 degrees of negative up front, and over 1 at the rear
 
I know from my experience with Audi ( I’m talking actual Audi not VWG platform) is A6 and Q5 like to wear the rear tyres real uneven. I find it’s a combination of factory camber/ toe settings and how the car is used.
 
Not sure if I remember correctly, but also, aren't some BMW's supposed to have weight put in the trunk during alignment? That would affect camber settings.
Not when we do it at the dealer. We have ride height sensors that will compensate for different ride heights due to fuel load etc.

Because of this, we do a much more accurate alignment as it will give us a very narrow (+/- 2 mins) of spec to work with based on the ride height, compared to the very wide (+/- 20 mins) of the factory specs.

OP, that is purely an excessive positive toe issue, not a camber issue. You also said you had the control arm bushings replaced, that would mean you had the thrust rod bushings replaced, which have no affect on the static alignment.

I would get another alignment at the dealer with the newest Kinematic alignment machine. Going with factory wheels will also produce a more accurate alignment.

You don’t mention which chassis this is?
 
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