WD-40 Chain Lube - Boraticus?

[Lurch]

Hoping Bro Boraticus will chip here. I just sprayed my chain with WD40. Got fed up with motor oil on it - seemed to attract too much crud. I like that WD40. Seems to wash old crud off well.

Should I wipe off any excess with a rag or just let it air dry / evaporate?

Thank you. I think I'm going to like WD40 best of all.

 

[05ChevyI5]

Maybe as a chain cleaner, but certainly not as a lube.

 

[bepperb]

That will clean a motorcycle chain, but that's not enough lubrication for it.

 

[Lurch]

Boraticus doesn't add any lube to his chains and says they last as long as any chains he's ever had. I presume he'll chip in here sooner or later.

 

[Lurch]

Originally Posted By: bepperb
That will clean a motorcycle chain, but that's not enough lubrication for it.


O ring chains are self contained with grease. The idea is to prevent rust on the outside. I tend to think the oil/lubes is overkill on many bikes. I'm going to see how it goes with WD40. Time will tell.

 

[SteveSRT8]

The important part is to NOT use anything that will degrade the o-rings.

I'm not certain wd-40 is the right stuff.

 

[mikiee]

I've heard that WD-40 penetrates past the O rings and actually flushes the grease out, which is not good.

 

[rshunter]

Originally Posted By: Lurch
Originally Posted By: bepperb
That will clean a motorcycle chain, but that's not enough lubrication for it.

O ring chains are self contained with grease. The idea is to prevent rust on the outside. I tend to think the oil/lubes is overkill on many bikes. I'm going to see how it goes with WD40. Time will tell.

The problem isn't with lube for the inside of the chain links, it's for the chain/sprocket interface. WD40 is primarily Stoddard solvent, with about 15% mineral oil.

Something more substantial would be preferable. I use, and recommend, the DuPont Teflon Chain Lube sprays. The "Multi-Use" version can be found at Lowe's Home Improvement. Both versions of the product can also be found on Amazon.

 

[JOD]

I'd give this a look here: http://biketechreview.com/forum/1-general-discussion/21680-comparison-of-chain-lubes

While there are certainly limitations to the test, it confirms my own experience with WD-40. It works great as a clean-running lubricant if used in dry weather for very short durations with frequent applications. On a bicycle, about 1 hour is the maximum before it becomes noticeably more noisy. It seems that it's most suitable for racing on the track, since it's always dry for track racing and the events are short.

Since this guy tested these various lubes, I'd been using 3 in 1 oil for bicycle chains with great results. You have to add it sparingly, let it sit overnight and then wipe the chain clean, otherwise it runs pretty dirty; however, it's much cleaner than motor oil and lubricates very, very well.

 

[Lurch]

Hmmm. 3 in 1 oil sounds interesting. I may try some.

 

[Boomer]

I always use the dry wax lubes. They clean and lubricate quite well.

 

[bepperb]

Lurch, why don't you ask the motorcycle mechanic you just used?

Because they won't support Boraticus's theory of no oil?

 

[Lurch]

Hi,

I tried to find the thread where Boraticus told of how he applies WD40 but couldn't find it. No big deal. That chain isn't going to wilt over night.

 

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: Boomer
I always use the dry wax lubes. They clean and lubricate quite well.


x2

 

[Greg L]

Keep in mind that WD-40 works mostly like a solvent rather than a lubricant.


I use BelRay chain lube on my chain.

Works great; I recommend it.


GL

 

[Redline955]

I use the BelRay too. Have for years. WD 40 is not a good chain lube. Too thin, and it will dissolve the grease behind the o-rings.

 

[boraticus]

I've been using WD-40 exclusively for more than the last 10K miles on my KLR-650.

Chain and sprocket still look great and the chain has plenty of life left in it.

I ride a lot on dirt roads which is a tougher environment on a chain than what most people will experience. At the 300 mile mark, after a ride, I usually apply the WD-40 while the chain is still warm.

I jack up the rear wheel, fire up the bike, put it in first gear and allow the idling engine to rotate the wheel. I liberally spray WD-40 on both sides of the chain to ensure the link plates are being cleaned/lubed. I wipe off any over-spray that may have gotten on the wheel but usually allow the WD-40 to evaporate and or drip off the chain onto a piece of cardboard.

If you go to KLR650.com and search for WD-40 as a chain lube, you'll find that there are guys over there who've been riding since the Dead Sea was just getting sick. Quite a few of the old timers do just what I do. That's where I learned it.

People can use and do what they want to maintain their chains. Doesn't matter to me and I have no objection to what they choose to do. I know what works for me. It's super easy and clean.

Rather than all of this obsessive discussion about the minutia of molecular chemistry of chain lubes, focus on the most important aspect of chain maintenance.....

PROPER CHAIN ADJUSTMENT!!!!

It's far more important than what lube to use. Keep the chain sufficiently slack and it will do it's job for a good long time.

 

[Lurch]

So, it's better to have too much slack than not enough? It's got plenty of slack in in right now. I never let it get tight.

 

[Redline955]

Everyone has a method and product that works. We really have beaten this one to death. I agree that proper chain adjustment is THE most important factor, not just for the chainand sprocket longevity, but for countershaft bearings and seals as well. Use whatever chain lube that works for your conditions and useage.

 

[boraticus]

Originally Posted By: Lurch
So, it's better to have too much slack than not enough? It's got plenty of slack in in right now. I never let it get tight.

The rear wheel suspension requires the axle to move through an arc relative to the output sprocket. When the suspension is working, the chain has to respond to the movement of the rear axle. When suspension is at it's maximum upward travel, the chain is at it's maximum degree of arc. Accordingly, there needs to be sufficient slack in the chain to allow it to travel freely to the apex of the arc without putting too much stress on the chain.

Most chain stretch does not happen due to engine loading. It's usually a result of being adjusted too tight.

More focus on chain adjustment and less on lubricant properties will go a looooooong way to keeping your chain alive.