wax/ polish can damage paintwork. True or false?
- Thread starter bonjo
- Start date
- Status
Only if you're hitting the paint with harsh chemicals first, or using some HIGHLY suspect polish/wax brand.
As a rule, any reputable brand of polish/wax/sealant is going to HELP your paint, and make it last longer.
As a rule, any reputable brand of polish/wax/sealant is going to HELP your paint, and make it last longer.
One of my friends put paste wax on a new to him pale green Chevelle and left it sitting in the sun. I don't think he ever got that awful mottled white coating off (and I mean over a period of years). I don't know that it damaged the paint exactly, but it sure looked bad!
So don't do that.
So don't do that.
I have heard that modern cars that get painted and go through the heated oven chambers to bake on the paint are good to go for toppings. It's your body shop type of paint jobs that needs time to cure. There you want to wait before waxing or sealing.
We routinely sell cars and trucks here that have never been waxed or polished. They are shiny and attractive to buyers. They are hot water pressure washed with a mild detergent solution sprayed on first.
Swirl marks and fine scratches accumulate on hand washed paint jobs over the years and require a buffing. Our vehicles never have these issues.
I don't think waxing and polishing hurt a paint job if done to an extremely high standard, but if not...
Swirl marks and fine scratches accumulate on hand washed paint jobs over the years and require a buffing. Our vehicles never have these issues.
I don't think waxing and polishing hurt a paint job if done to an extremely high standard, but if not...
Some (all?) cleaner waxes contains abrasives to clean, they can damage the paint or clear coat. There are ways to fix issues depending on what is wrong; I have no actual knowledge just from what I've seen on-line.
Paint gets 'stuff' stuck on it during transport. Most new cars are transported by train which is especially dirty. So if you just wash and wax, you don't get all these tiny particles out of the paint surface and end up rubbing them around when you polish. The cure for this is to clean with clay bar first. You will be able to feel the difference in the smoothness of the paint. Then wash and wax to your hearts content. Apply several layers. Top off with a glaze.
Originally Posted By: ecotourist
One of my friends put paste wax on a new to him pale green Chevelle and left it sitting in the sun. I don't think he ever got that awful mottled white coating off (and I mean over a period of years). I don't know that it damaged the paint exactly, but it sure looked bad!
I must have done something similar when waxing my black 1993 Trans Am over 20 yrs ago. It developed a spotty, milky white film on the hood over time...almost like white mold or PVC. I figured it was from acid rain. It would not come off with cleanings and washing. I took it to the local Pontiac dealer for a look and the confirmed the acid rain damage....saying I need a new paint they could do for X $thousands of dollars....on a 2 yr old car! My next stop was at a local detailing shop not far from where I worked. They told me they thought they could fix it. Sure enough, that car come out looking brand new, the film entirely gone. It was from wax buildup/excessive wax applied. And each subsequent waxing only sealed it in further. So much for a new paint job.
One of my friends put paste wax on a new to him pale green Chevelle and left it sitting in the sun. I don't think he ever got that awful mottled white coating off (and I mean over a period of years). I don't know that it damaged the paint exactly, but it sure looked bad!
I must have done something similar when waxing my black 1993 Trans Am over 20 yrs ago. It developed a spotty, milky white film on the hood over time...almost like white mold or PVC. I figured it was from acid rain. It would not come off with cleanings and washing. I took it to the local Pontiac dealer for a look and the confirmed the acid rain damage....saying I need a new paint they could do for X $thousands of dollars....on a 2 yr old car! My next stop was at a local detailing shop not far from where I worked. They told me they thought they could fix it. Sure enough, that car come out looking brand new, the film entirely gone. It was from wax buildup/excessive wax applied. And each subsequent waxing only sealed it in further. So much for a new paint job.
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: ecotourist
One of my friends put paste wax on a new to him pale green Chevelle and left it sitting in the sun. I don't think he ever got that awful mottled white coating off (and I mean over a period of years). I don't know that it damaged the paint exactly, but it sure looked bad!
I must have done something similar when waxing my black 1993 Trans Am over 20 yrs ago. It developed a spotty, milky white film on the hood over time...almost like white mold or PVC. I figured it was from acid rain. It would not come off with cleanings and washing. I took it to the local Pontiac dealer for a look and the confirmed the acid rain damage....saying I need a new paint they could do for X $thousands of dollars....on a 2 yr old car! My next stop was at a local detailing shop not far from where I worked. They told me they thought they could fix it. Sure enough, that car come out looking brand new, the film entirely gone. It was from wax buildup/excessive wax applied. And each subsequent waxing only sealed it in further. So much for a new paint job.
Whatever he did, the result was far worse than a milky film, more like white blotches all over. I suspect he applied the wax and let it sit in the sun for quite a while.
Originally Posted By: ecotourist
One of my friends put paste wax on a new to him pale green Chevelle and left it sitting in the sun. I don't think he ever got that awful mottled white coating off (and I mean over a period of years). I don't know that it damaged the paint exactly, but it sure looked bad!
I must have done something similar when waxing my black 1993 Trans Am over 20 yrs ago. It developed a spotty, milky white film on the hood over time...almost like white mold or PVC. I figured it was from acid rain. It would not come off with cleanings and washing. I took it to the local Pontiac dealer for a look and the confirmed the acid rain damage....saying I need a new paint they could do for X $thousands of dollars....on a 2 yr old car! My next stop was at a local detailing shop not far from where I worked. They told me they thought they could fix it. Sure enough, that car come out looking brand new, the film entirely gone. It was from wax buildup/excessive wax applied. And each subsequent waxing only sealed it in further. So much for a new paint job.
Whatever he did, the result was far worse than a milky film, more like white blotches all over. I suspect he applied the wax and let it sit in the sun for quite a while.
Waxing helps protect the finish from contaminants like bird droppings, brake dust, bug guts, etc which are all acidic and will damage the clear coat.
Originally Posted By: PLRX
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
I was told it interferes with the curing process, so no wax on paint less than a month or two old.
At least 3 weeks
Dependent on the temp in the area. Cooler climates should wait longer. Hot climates can be waxed sooner. I like to wait a minimum of 6 weeks regardless. Aftermarket paint is never as durable as that from the factory, no need to risk it not being 100% cured.
Originally Posted By: PLRX
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
I was told it interferes with the curing process, so no wax on paint less than a month or two old.
At least 3 weeks
Dependent on the temp in the area. Cooler climates should wait longer. Hot climates can be waxed sooner. I like to wait a minimum of 6 weeks regardless. Aftermarket paint is never as durable as that from the factory, no need to risk it not being 100% cured.
every time you compound or polish the paint you are removing clear coat and there is only so much material. Wax is old tech. Sealants are more durable and look just as good as waxes. Many sealants can be used as a sacrificial barrier to UVA and UVB rays. If you want the ultimate in protection you can apply a paint coating that lasts years and not months.
Originally Posted By: wn1998
every time you compound or polish the paint you are removing clear coat and there is only so much material. Wax is old tech. Sealants are more durable and look just as good as waxes. Many sealants can be used as a sacrificial barrier to UVA and UVB rays. If you want the ultimate in protection you can apply a paint coating that lasts years and not months.
Factory clear coat is generally between 1.5-2 mils thick. Polishing cuts clear at the micronic level. It'd take hundreds of polishes to with a fine pad and quality polish to cut through the clear coat. Compounding would make that happen sooner....but still we're talking dozens of compounds.
every time you compound or polish the paint you are removing clear coat and there is only so much material. Wax is old tech. Sealants are more durable and look just as good as waxes. Many sealants can be used as a sacrificial barrier to UVA and UVB rays. If you want the ultimate in protection you can apply a paint coating that lasts years and not months.
Factory clear coat is generally between 1.5-2 mils thick. Polishing cuts clear at the micronic level. It'd take hundreds of polishes to with a fine pad and quality polish to cut through the clear coat. Compounding would make that happen sooner....but still we're talking dozens of compounds.
Originally Posted By: Pilatus1
Originally Posted By: wn1998
every time you compound or polish the paint you are removing clear coat and there is only so much material. Wax is old tech. Sealants are more durable and look just as good as waxes. Many sealants can be used as a sacrificial barrier to UVA and UVB rays. If you want the ultimate in protection you can apply a paint coating that lasts years and not months.
Factory clear coat is generally between 1.5-2 mils thick. Polishing cuts clear at the micronic level. It'd take hundreds of polishes to with a fine pad and quality polish to cut through the clear coat. Compounding would make that happen sooner....but still we're talking dozens of compounds.
Except....most of the UV inhibitors are in the upper 1/2 (or 1/3) of the clearcoat. Once the UV inhibitors have been depleted, the lifespan of the clearcoat will be greatly compromised.
Originally Posted By: wn1998
every time you compound or polish the paint you are removing clear coat and there is only so much material. Wax is old tech. Sealants are more durable and look just as good as waxes. Many sealants can be used as a sacrificial barrier to UVA and UVB rays. If you want the ultimate in protection you can apply a paint coating that lasts years and not months.
Factory clear coat is generally between 1.5-2 mils thick. Polishing cuts clear at the micronic level. It'd take hundreds of polishes to with a fine pad and quality polish to cut through the clear coat. Compounding would make that happen sooner....but still we're talking dozens of compounds.
Except....most of the UV inhibitors are in the upper 1/2 (or 1/3) of the clearcoat. Once the UV inhibitors have been depleted, the lifespan of the clearcoat will be greatly compromised.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: Pilatus1
Originally Posted By: wn1998
every time you compound or polish the paint you are removing clear coat and there is only so much material. Wax is old tech. Sealants are more durable and look just as good as waxes. Many sealants can be used as a sacrificial barrier to UVA and UVB rays. If you want the ultimate in protection you can apply a paint coating that lasts years and not months.
Factory clear coat is generally between 1.5-2 mils thick. Polishing cuts clear at the micronic level. It'd take hundreds of polishes to with a fine pad and quality polish to cut through the clear coat. Compounding would make that happen sooner....but still we're talking dozens of compounds.
Except....most of the UV inhibitors are in the upper 1/2 (or 1/3) of the clearcoat. Once the UV inhibitors have been depleted, the lifespan of the clearcoat will be greatly compromised.
Correct...you're still talking dozens of polishes (which is all anyone generally needs to eliminate 90% of swirling and light oxidation) and a large number of compounds.
However...Keep the paint clayed and waxed, as well as use a proper two-bucket wash technique and you will have to worry about neither.
Originally Posted By: Pilatus1
Originally Posted By: wn1998
every time you compound or polish the paint you are removing clear coat and there is only so much material. Wax is old tech. Sealants are more durable and look just as good as waxes. Many sealants can be used as a sacrificial barrier to UVA and UVB rays. If you want the ultimate in protection you can apply a paint coating that lasts years and not months.
Factory clear coat is generally between 1.5-2 mils thick. Polishing cuts clear at the micronic level. It'd take hundreds of polishes to with a fine pad and quality polish to cut through the clear coat. Compounding would make that happen sooner....but still we're talking dozens of compounds.
Except....most of the UV inhibitors are in the upper 1/2 (or 1/3) of the clearcoat. Once the UV inhibitors have been depleted, the lifespan of the clearcoat will be greatly compromised.
Correct...you're still talking dozens of polishes (which is all anyone generally needs to eliminate 90% of swirling and light oxidation) and a large number of compounds.
However...Keep the paint clayed and waxed, as well as use a proper two-bucket wash technique and you will have to worry about neither.
So Everytime you touch your paint you are either making it better or worse if you are not paint correcting then you are making it worse. How much worse well that depends on how you treat it/wash it.
With that said there are various paint correcting tools applying compound by hand is a certain level of aggressiveness. Usually hand pads do not have a high cut level so applying compound by hand you are bearly taking anything off.
A a full machine polish with an agressive pad and agressive polish still only takes out a few microns.
With that said there are various paint correcting tools applying compound by hand is a certain level of aggressiveness. Usually hand pads do not have a high cut level so applying compound by hand you are bearly taking anything off.
A a full machine polish with an agressive pad and agressive polish still only takes out a few microns.
Last edited:
Rainwater can damage clearcoat.
- Status
