Water softener installation cost and advice please

Joined
Apr 12, 2021
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658
Location
Corpus Christi, TX
I've finally had enough of our hard water. Actually, I've had enough of my better half complaining about the lack of soapy suds and loss of body in her hair. This is especially true after a hotel stay..."See! This is how a shower should be!" I digress.

I've decided to buy an Aquasure water softener from Home Depot (through AAFES for a nice discount, free delivery, and tax-free). Since I have never done an installation like this, I decided to get a quote from a local plumbing company I've used before for emergency repair of an outdoor spigot.

The dude came by and explained that it was pretty easy. My main water line (3/4" PEX) enters the garage near the opening. He said it's mainly a matter of tapping into that line and looping it to the machine and back into the line. Not bad. I've already installed a new power outlet near that location, so it looks pretty straightforward.

I specifically asked about the drain and how that's accomplished. He told me the most common method is to run a drain line up the wall, across the attic, and back down into the washing machine drain box. Since that run is about 10 feet up, about 20 feet over, and then about 8 feet down, I asked if the pump has enough power to push the drainage across that distance, and he said "Sure...it pushes at about 20-25 PSI, and the main concern is pumping it up the wall. After that, gravity takes over." Fair enough.

Since I floored most of my attic a few years ago, I told him I'd prefer to run the drain line myself. I'd have to move a bunch of crap, pull up some of the floor, and then run the line. He said that would actually save a bunch of money and recommended I use 1/2" PEX-B for that line. Great. I actually did this job yesterday as we had a 65-degree day in South Texas.

My problem - or so I think - is the quote. The company came up with $1250.00 ($925.00 labor, $300.00 materials, and about $25.00 in tax). I know labor rates are nuts these days, but this seems quite extreme to me.

I would normally, without hesitation, do the whole job myself. Buying the proper connectors (probably Sharkbite) and a few feet of extra PEX seems like a bargain in comparison.

The only issue I foresee is completing the drain line into the washer's water box. Do the box (and spigots) have to be removed to fish the line down from the attic? Or do I just bore a 3/4" hole in the top of that box and try to run a fish line up into the attic? I really don't know how they'd handle this step.

My other option is to grab a few more quotes from local plumbers. I could see paying about 500 bones for this labor, but not a grand.

Am I all wet (pardon the pun)? Opinions are helpful here, thanks!

Here are pics of my water line entering the garage (the white PEX is the drain line I ran yesterday) and the water box in the laundry room.

DSCN6011.webp

DSCN6012.webp
 
Are you sure that drain line has a pump? The one I had was just an ejector nozzle built into the unit, (an old Sears model) and it wouldn't lift drain water 5 feet!
 
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Reactions: GON
Very easy way to see if you have a good quote, or a maximum profit quote for a water softener install.

It the water softener can be removed at any time, without a plumber or shutting off the main water supply, and you can still have water service to the home like you do right now, you likely have a good quote. On the other hand, if the water softener can't be removed without shutting off the main water supply, and water softener needs to be in place to supply water to the house, the plumber provided a maximum profit for minimum work quote.

BTW- not thrilled with the course of action of running the discharge line above the water softener.
 
I would not be going that high and over for the drain line. I have the same Aquasure water softener and my drain line goes about 3.5 feet to the ceiling and over to my drain setup. Installed the same unit at a friends house and it's about the same height. We both have basements though.

Is there any physical way to run the line strait across and not up and over? That would be ideal. Worst case you can drill a hole in the top of the washing machine box and have it come down into the drain.

If you have 3/4" PEX I don't see how this couldn't be an easy DIY job. You would probably have $300 materials in it yourself, and that includes buying the PEX crimper. Shark Bites are nice, but if your house is plumbed in PEX, get one. I had about $300 in materials installing mine, but that included a water filter.

If you're on a public water source you need a filter to remove the chlorine. Chlorine does not play well with water softeners.

Also follow the initial setup of the softer to a "T". I didn't flush my line long enough and sent a bunch of resin beads to the toilet as it was the first thing that used water after setup/regen.
 
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Waste of time to get other quotes. Here what I learned regarding Plumbers, Electricians, etc., There is a trades people shortage. Any good one is busy. A hint is to make sure you are dealing with a individually owned company-many are now owned by investment groups. Obviously, the individual owner will have better customer service and slightly (not substantially) lower prices.
 
Thanks for the replies thus far! This is a South Texas slab house, so not sure how else to run the drain line other than up into the attic and back down. My ceiling joists are 2x10 above the garage and 2x8 for the rest of the house, so when I drilled the holes for the drain line I started high and gradually lowered each hole to provide natural slope across the attic.

For sure it seems a bit unorthodox, but I can't see another way in this case (short of blowing it out the wall and into a French drain...but this solution is not appropriate for salty water). The first plumber said this is how they do most of them down here, and that after the water is pumped up into the attic gravity will handle the rest.

Good points all. I haven't done this before so I just don't know...

GON...good point on being able to remove the unit. I imagine this would require a bypass line.
 
Are you sure that drain line has a pump? The one I had was just an ejector nozzle built into the unit, (an old Sears model) and it wouldn't lift drain water 5 feet!
Great question! I looked at the instructions for the unit I'm buying and they said it can pump 7-7.5 feet up. My setup is a bit more than that. Perhaps the reason the materials quote is $300.00 is for a supplemental pump? You've given me more to ask about.

Gotta say that my research shows the up-over-down line into the attic is very common in these parts!
 
Thanks for the replies thus far! This is a South Texas slab house, so not sure how else to run the drain line other than up into the attic and back down. My ceiling joists are 2x10 above the garage and 2x8 for the rest of the house, so when I drilled the holes for the drain line I started high and gradually lowered each hole to provide natural slope across the attic.

For sure it seems a bit unorthodox, but I can't see another way in this case (short of blowing it out the wall and into a French drain...but this solution is not appropriate for salty water). The first plumber said this is how they do most of them down here, and that after the water is pumped up into the attic gravity will handle the rest.

Good points all. I haven't done this before so I just don't know...

GON...good point on being able to remove the unit. I imagine this would require a bypass line.
Yes, 3 way bypass is the way to go. The unit will likely have a built in bypass that will use o rings. Once they've sat for a couple years, they have a high chance of "rolling" off their seats when exercised or needed. I used ball valves.

I installed one of the Rheem units from Home Depot a few years ago. Want to say the manual gave a maximum distance for drain line length. Luckily I had a clean out a couple feet from where I installed the unit (behind the jacket & ball rack in the pic) so I just made a standpipe with an air gap to attach the drain line.

Here's a pic with the 3 valve bypass for the inlet (yes, garage was a mess, shoot me):

1762881534219.webp
 
Great question! I looked at the instructions for the unit I'm buying and they said it can pump 7-7.5 feet up. My setup is a bit more than that. Perhaps the reason the materials quote is $300.00 is for a supplemental pump? You've given me more to ask about.

Gotta say that my research shows the up-over-down line into the attic is very common in these parts!

The only pump in that price range would be a cheap condensate pump, and I'm pretty sure that could not keep up with the amount of flow. There is no internal pump, it works off of water pressure. The only pump system that could possibly handle that would be something like an undersink pump that has a small little sump pump in it used for bar sinks in the basement and those are spendy.

You can see how high mine goes in these couple pictures of my setup.

9PsVCup.jpg


9okghLd.jpg


I know you're already spending a bunch of money on a softener setup, but consider ordering this unit along with the softener.

https://aquasureusa.com/products/fo...ons-whole-house-water-filter-treatment-system

It removes the chlorine to increase the life of the softener. I actually installed one at a friends house as they have questionable water. After testing they tossed their Brita sink filter.

2Guq3Hq.jpg
 
Great question! I looked at the instructions for the unit I'm buying and they said it can pump 7-7.5 feet up. My setup is a bit more than that. Perhaps the reason the materials quote is $300.00 is for a supplemental pump? You've given me more to ask about.

Gotta say that my research shows the up-over-down line into the attic is very common in these parts!
The only pump in that price range would be a cheap condensate pump, and I'm pretty sure that could not keep up with the amount of flow. There is no internal pump, it works off of water pressure. The only pump system that could possibly handle that would be something like an undersink pump that has a small little sump pump in it used for bar sinks in the basement and those are spendy.

You can see how high mine goes in these couple pictures of my setup.

9PsVCup.jpg


9okghLd.jpg


I know you're already spending a bunch of money on a softener setup, but consider ordering this unit along with the softener.

https://aquasureusa.com/products/fo...ons-whole-house-water-filter-treatment-system

It removes the chlorine to increase the life of the softener. I actually installed one at a friends house as they have questionable water. After testing they tossed their Brita sink filter.

2Guq3Hq.jpg
Mine is the same...in the basement and drain up to the joists to the drain system.
 
Be sure when you plumb it in that you are not sending softened water to your outside taps/sprinkler system. Maybe one that you will use for car washing.

Ed
Yes. I have two outside spigots...one is post softener which I wash cars with and the other is pre softener along with the irrigation system for watering plants. Your drain line seems complex....although I have a floor drain 3 feet from my softener and that's all I've ever known.
 
As others have mentioned in this thread, taking a second look at routing of the discharge water. I have seen discharge lines fail, and the fail is often discovered well after the damage is done, resulting in very extensive repairs.

You mentioned a French drain. I think a drain into a subsurface holding tank , that leached well below the immediate ground surface is the way to go. Note many softeners discharge a lot more water than one might think.

Might be safer, and cheap to put in a underground discharge capture tank, then running the discharge water through the attic.
 
Softener drain is the back flush water that flush's out regeneration salt water. It uses whatever water pressure is in the supply to the system. Just run it where you need to go. My old house had high waste pipes at the pump tank where the softener was going so I tapped into the kitchen sink drain pipe above it and used a one way valve for the softener drain so no back flow would go into it.
Particle filter ahead of the softener is a good idea as grit will shorten the life of the seals in the softeners internal rotary valve.
Plus filter keeps water heater clean and extends all the house plumbing valves life, city or private well. Especially private wells.
 
My problem - or so I think - is the quote. The company came up with $1250.00 ($925.00 labor, $300.00 materials, and about $25.00 in tax). I know labor rates are nuts these days, but this seems quite extreme to me.
Have you done this yet ? On one hand, I was shocked by the cost and on the other hand, I'm not.... Are you sure the plumber realizes he's not supplying the softener ? I'd expect $500-600 for labor and less than $100 in material. Get more quotes and even consider hiring a "handyman" vs a plumber. A handyman might charge $300-400 and worst case, you have to buy the material and maybe the PEX tool.



I had ours installed 18-20 months ago and a co-worker did the work. It cost me less than $50 in fittings as he donated the PEX tubing (it only needed 10-12', probably less, in fact) and had the necessary tools. It took him maybe an hour. Oh yeah, it did cost me a little more... maybe $20 for breakfast as a local bar. He refused my money - I offered him $100.

I learned how to install PEX fittings (not that it's hard) in the process and afterwards. I also added a whole-house water filter but it wouldn't stop seeping at one of the connections. Re-installing the fitting, using more and more sealing tape, and so on didn't work and finally decided that the threads were damaged, so I replaced the filter housing and problem solved. When I say I learned, while a union would have avoided this, in my case I had to cut the PEX and re-crimp fittings each time. I'll work on it again someday.... maybe.... We installed one of the ball valves in a different orientation from the other so when I close them to swap filters, one handle is pointed up and the other points down. My OCD doesn't like that !! 😜 I must fix it some day !!
 
I've finally had enough of our hard water. Actually, I've had enough of my better half complaining about the lack of soapy suds and loss of body in her hair. This is especially true after a hotel stay..."See! This is how a shower should be!" I digress.

I've decided to buy an Aquasure water softener from Home Depot (through AAFES for a nice discount, free delivery, and tax-free). Since I have never done an installation like this, I decided to get a quote from a local plumbing company I've used before for emergency repair of an outdoor spigot.

The dude came by and explained that it was pretty easy. My main water line (3/4" PEX) enters the garage near the opening. He said it's mainly a matter of tapping into that line and looping it to the machine and back into the line. Not bad. I've already installed a new power outlet near that location, so it looks pretty straightforward.

I specifically asked about the drain and how that's accomplished. He told me the most common method is to run a drain line up the wall, across the attic, and back down into the washing machine drain box. Since that run is about 10 feet up, about 20 feet over, and then about 8 feet down, I asked if the pump has enough power to push the drainage across that distance, and he said "Sure...it pushes at about 20-25 PSI, and the main concern is pumping it up the wall. After that, gravity takes over." Fair enough.

Since I floored most of my attic a few years ago, I told him I'd prefer to run the drain line myself. I'd have to move a bunch of crap, pull up some of the floor, and then run the line. He said that would actually save a bunch of money and recommended I use 1/2" PEX-B for that line. Great. I actually did this job yesterday as we had a 65-degree day in South Texas.

My problem - or so I think - is the quote. The company came up with $1250.00 ($925.00 labor, $300.00 materials, and about $25.00 in tax). I know labor rates are nuts these days, but this seems quite extreme to me.

I would normally, without hesitation, do the whole job myself. Buying the proper connectors (probably Sharkbite) and a few feet of extra PEX seems like a bargain in comparison.

The only issue I foresee is completing the drain line into the washer's water box. Do the box (and spigots) have to be removed to fish the line down from the attic? Or do I just bore a 3/4" hole in the top of that box and try to run a fish line up into the attic? I really don't know how they'd handle this step.

My other option is to grab a few more quotes from local plumbers. I could see paying about 500 bones for this labor, but not a grand.

Am I all wet (pardon the pun)? Opinions are helpful here, thanks!

Here are pics of my water line entering the garage (the white PEX is the drain line I ran yesterday) and the water box in the laundry room.

View attachment 309779
View attachment 309780
My plumber will not guarantee any work where he is forced to use a Sharkbite.
 
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