Split level home about 20 years old. Water pressure is ok as long as only one fixture is being used, but as soon as any other faucet is opened, the flow drops to a trickle. The pressure and flow does not return until one of the fixtures is turned off. I have replaced the pressure tank with a new 40 gallon unit and have replaced the pressure switch as well. The tank is at 50 psi and the switch is set to 60 psi. New water softener as well. I have had a rural well in the past when we built a two story house and had great water pressure and volume there, no problem with two showers going at the same time and a toilet flush thrown in. That was even with a smaller pressure tank than this one. What is the problem now? The supply lines in this house seem a bit smaller than in the other house, could that alone account for the issue? It's driving me crazy - which admittedly is a short trip...Please help me plumbers!!!!!
Water Pressure at Home (rural well)
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The pipe from the tank should be at least 3/4" until it splits to service an individual fixture. Then it can be 1/2, maybe a bathtub would still need 3/4".
Globe vs gate or ball valves can also cause a pressure loss.
Globe vs gate or ball valves can also cause a pressure loss.
Originally Posted By: Donald
The pipe from the tank should be at least 3/4" until it splits to service an individual fixture. Then it can be 1/2, maybe a bathtub would still need 3/4".
Globe vs gate or ball valves can also cause a pressure loss.
What he said....Plus, you may have a necking down due to deposits in the pipe from the well to the house.
The pipe from the tank should be at least 3/4" until it splits to service an individual fixture. Then it can be 1/2, maybe a bathtub would still need 3/4".
Globe vs gate or ball valves can also cause a pressure loss.
What he said....Plus, you may have a necking down due to deposits in the pipe from the well to the house.
50psi seems too low. You didn't mention how far away the tank is. It won't be 50psi at the end of 50' of pipe. Also depends on pipe ID and how its laid out. There's quite a bit of difference between 1/2, 5/8 & 3/4 ID because the area is related to the square of the radius!
How long does it take to fill a 5ga. bucket at the far end of the house?
How long does it take to fill a 5ga. bucket at the far end of the house?
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
Originally Posted By: Donald
The pipe from the tank should be at least 3/4" until it splits to service an individual fixture. Then it can be 1/2, maybe a bathtub would still need 3/4".
Globe vs gate or ball valves can also cause a pressure loss.
What he said....Plus, you may have a necking down due to deposits in the pipe from the well to the house.
I am not sure the pipe from well to house comes into play once the pump shuts off via pressure switch.
OP - I assume you bought a bladder tank and checked that is pressurized properly outside of the bladder? Normally a tire valve. I think it should be pressurized above the pump shutoff PSI, but am not positive.
Originally Posted By: Donald
The pipe from the tank should be at least 3/4" until it splits to service an individual fixture. Then it can be 1/2, maybe a bathtub would still need 3/4".
Globe vs gate or ball valves can also cause a pressure loss.
What he said....Plus, you may have a necking down due to deposits in the pipe from the well to the house.
I am not sure the pipe from well to house comes into play once the pump shuts off via pressure switch.
OP - I assume you bought a bladder tank and checked that is pressurized properly outside of the bladder? Normally a tire valve. I think it should be pressurized above the pump shutoff PSI, but am not positive.
When the pump starts at low pressure setting you should not have any issues.
Sounds like you need a plumber. My guess is that you have internal buildup in the plumbing pipes.
A plumber can check and replace what is necessary if that is the cause.
Sounds like you need a plumber. My guess is that you have internal buildup in the plumbing pipes.
A plumber can check and replace what is necessary if that is the cause.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
Originally Posted By: Donald
The pipe from the tank should be at least 3/4" until it splits to service an individual fixture. Then it can be 1/2, maybe a bathtub would still need 3/4".
Globe vs gate or ball valves can also cause a pressure loss.
What he said....Plus, you may have a necking down due to deposits in the pipe from the well to the house.
I am not sure the pipe from well to house comes into play once the pump shuts off via pressure switch.
OP - I assume you bought a bladder tank and checked that is pressurized properly outside of the bladder? Normally a tire valve. I think it should be pressurized above the pump shutoff PSI, but am not positive.
It depends on where the pressure tank is. I assumed it was at the well house. But you could be right.
The issue he brought up is that there IS adequate pressure, just not sufficient volumn to maintain pressure, once a second tap is opened. Either too small a pipe, or a restriction. Since he needs a water softener, calcium scale is a likely culprit.
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
Originally Posted By: Donald
The pipe from the tank should be at least 3/4" until it splits to service an individual fixture. Then it can be 1/2, maybe a bathtub would still need 3/4".
Globe vs gate or ball valves can also cause a pressure loss.
What he said....Plus, you may have a necking down due to deposits in the pipe from the well to the house.
I am not sure the pipe from well to house comes into play once the pump shuts off via pressure switch.
OP - I assume you bought a bladder tank and checked that is pressurized properly outside of the bladder? Normally a tire valve. I think it should be pressurized above the pump shutoff PSI, but am not positive.
It depends on where the pressure tank is. I assumed it was at the well house. But you could be right.
The issue he brought up is that there IS adequate pressure, just not sufficient volumn to maintain pressure, once a second tap is opened. Either too small a pipe, or a restriction. Since he needs a water softener, calcium scale is a likely culprit.
Always set your pressure tank's pressure to 2-3 psi below the pump cut on pressure. If not set correctly, it won't have the volume necessary to work effectively.
Example:
Pump comes on at 34 and shuts off at 49. Shut the pump off, open a spigot and drain the tank of its water. Set air pressure at 32 psi. Turn pump back on and enjoy proper operation.
I very much prefer higher water pressure. It solves many annoying issues. My home has a goulds 3 stage, 2hp shallow well jet pump. It's set at 75-95. Works wonderfully. I'm very happy with the water pressure and flow rate.
Your setup is not likely to be capable of such pressures. But many wells can easily run 45-60.
Example:
Pump comes on at 34 and shuts off at 49. Shut the pump off, open a spigot and drain the tank of its water. Set air pressure at 32 psi. Turn pump back on and enjoy proper operation.
I very much prefer higher water pressure. It solves many annoying issues. My home has a goulds 3 stage, 2hp shallow well jet pump. It's set at 75-95. Works wonderfully. I'm very happy with the water pressure and flow rate.
Your setup is not likely to be capable of such pressures. But many wells can easily run 45-60.
Shut the pump off, drain the tank, and adjust the air pressure to 38 psi. Usually you want the air pressure to 2 psi below the pump's cut in pressure, which is typically about 40 psi. I recently replaced our tank, and it was filled to 38 psi from the factory for exactly this reason.
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The new Amtrol tanks don't have a Schrader.
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