Seems like brake clean would evaporate too quickly? What would be the choice between say MMO, Seafoam, Berryman's, BG44K and Techron Concentrate?
Want to do heavy "de-carbon", have questions.
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When we rebuilt one of the 2.5's recently (one I posted pictures of in another thread) we soaked the cylinders in brake cleaner with the head off, had lunch worked on the head and the brake cleaner was still there. we then soaked it up with some clean rags, and put some MMO in the gap between the pistons and the cylinders before reassembling the engine.
Ran the car with some fresh oil and took it for a drive. Then came back and changed the oil out (older oil had some Anti-freeze in it so we wanted to make sure it was gone)
Brake cleaner will be fine on it's own, but I will state it again... Follow up with some oil/fuel system cleaner as a mixture or some MMO.
Ran the car with some fresh oil and took it for a drive. Then came back and changed the oil out (older oil had some Anti-freeze in it so we wanted to make sure it was gone)
Brake cleaner will be fine on it's own, but I will state it again... Follow up with some oil/fuel system cleaner as a mixture or some MMO.
As for the water in the intake, do i just remove the airbox, start it, and spray water in there? Is it that simple?
You remove the air tube going from the air box to the throttle body. And spray into the throttle body in a fine mist.
Note on some vehicles this may set the CEL because the MAF isn't seeing the air flow. This can be reset in most cases by disconnecting the battery. Should your car be one of those PITA models that likes to keep the light on regardless of loosing power it will reset once everything is put back together and you have started and driven the car "X" number of times without MAF causing an error.
Then once you have done it at idle, open the throttle body plate using the lever on the side that the cable from the accelerator pulls on, or have someone sit in the car and hold the pedal down so that the engine is revving at around 2K RPM or lower. Then spray in again until you have gone through a whole bottle or more (depending on carbon problem). Then once all the water is used up, let it stay at 2K rpm for about 20 seconds to help it rid the engine of any moisture that might be left, then let it fall to an idle and idle for 20 seconds to a few minutes. You should be good to go.
I would follow up with some sort of UCL like MMO in the fuel to lubricate your now de-carbonized clean engine.
Be sure to only use HOT water for this and not cold water, as cold water can cause valve/piston scoring/damage due to cold water hitting hot pistons/cylinders.
I would also do this when you are due for an oil change so that any moisture that happens to make its way into the oil (very little) is changed out thereafter.
These are just some "extra" anal measures IMO, but I like "extra"
Note on some vehicles this may set the CEL because the MAF isn't seeing the air flow. This can be reset in most cases by disconnecting the battery. Should your car be one of those PITA models that likes to keep the light on regardless of loosing power it will reset once everything is put back together and you have started and driven the car "X" number of times without MAF causing an error.
Then once you have done it at idle, open the throttle body plate using the lever on the side that the cable from the accelerator pulls on, or have someone sit in the car and hold the pedal down so that the engine is revving at around 2K RPM or lower. Then spray in again until you have gone through a whole bottle or more (depending on carbon problem). Then once all the water is used up, let it stay at 2K rpm for about 20 seconds to help it rid the engine of any moisture that might be left, then let it fall to an idle and idle for 20 seconds to a few minutes. You should be good to go.
I would follow up with some sort of UCL like MMO in the fuel to lubricate your now de-carbonized clean engine.
Be sure to only use HOT water for this and not cold water, as cold water can cause valve/piston scoring/damage due to cold water hitting hot pistons/cylinders.
I would also do this when you are due for an oil change so that any moisture that happens to make its way into the oil (very little) is changed out thereafter.
These are just some "extra" anal measures IMO, but I like "extra"
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I tried disconnecting the intake tube on my car, but it simply would not run without the air going through the MAF.
Yeah, it won't run with the zip tube unhooked, it sees no air going through the MAF so it does not squirt the injectors.
To fix simply unhook the MAF electrical connector. Now it will run on hard-coded fuel tables. Good enough for a few minutes.
To fix simply unhook the MAF electrical connector. Now it will run on hard-coded fuel tables. Good enough for a few minutes.
I would try this:
1. First run 2 cans of seafoam through an intake or vacuum line.
2. Fill up with Shell Vpower 93
3. Add an entire bottle of Redline SI-1 to the gas just before filling.
4. Take the car on a long freeway trip.
5. change oil when done.
1. First run 2 cans of seafoam through an intake or vacuum line.
2. Fill up with Shell Vpower 93
3. Add an entire bottle of Redline SI-1 to the gas just before filling.
4. Take the car on a long freeway trip.
5. change oil when done.
I don't think BuickGN has any problems administering an Italian Tune Up.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
I don't think BuickGN has any problems administering an Italian Tune Up.
My poor poor TL. I did the water spray in the intake and then took it out for a spin to this neighborhood they started building years ago but ran out of money. No houses, no people, walled off from the public, only paved streets. I did about 10 minutes straight of racing myself all out.
Car idles better but it still has the high test in it so no results yet.
One thing that I had a problem with, I couldn't get the rpms to drop at all. I took a heavy duty spray bottle from work and filled it with hot water. I took the cover off of where the throttle cable actuates the DBW and held it near 2,000rpm. No matter how much water I sprayed, it made no difference. I was worried it was puddling somewhere and not getting injested so I revved it a few times at WOT and nothing. I went through about half a quart of water, hope that was enough.
I don't think BuickGN has any problems administering an Italian Tune Up.
My poor poor TL. I did the water spray in the intake and then took it out for a spin to this neighborhood they started building years ago but ran out of money. No houses, no people, walled off from the public, only paved streets. I did about 10 minutes straight of racing myself all out.
Car idles better but it still has the high test in it so no results yet.
One thing that I had a problem with, I couldn't get the rpms to drop at all. I took a heavy duty spray bottle from work and filled it with hot water. I took the cover off of where the throttle cable actuates the DBW and held it near 2,000rpm. No matter how much water I sprayed, it made no difference. I was worried it was puddling somewhere and not getting injested so I revved it a few times at WOT and nothing. I went through about half a quart of water, hope that was enough.
That should be good bud! All the cars I have done at 2K rpm have studdered a bit but not much. So I guess you were just under the threshold.
I would follow up with a PEA based fuel system cleaner and then a UCL like MMO or TCW3 2-stroke oil.
I would follow up with a PEA based fuel system cleaner and then a UCL like MMO or TCW3 2-stroke oil.
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