Want a low VII content 0w-20? Rejoice!

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OK - Interesting and good BITOG stuff (!) on the long running darling 0W20.
If one were to run this in a d.i. fuel diluter, how does PAO deal with a moderate % of gasoline and thus ethanol in the fuel vs. the now prevalent typical GTO alkane base?
 
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Been using this in my CRV'S for some time, with the oil dilution, it's usually below grade in 2500 miles or so. Not so good. Switching to Mobil1 0W-30 AFE to see if it will run a bit longer. Some of these 1.5t engines are real diluters.
 

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Been using this in my CRV'S for some time, with the oil dilution, it's usually below grade in 2500 miles or so. Not so good. Switching to Mobil1 0W-30 AFE to see if it will run a bit longer. Some of these 1.5t engines are real diluters.
Yeah, it's not going to solve viscosity loss due to fuel dilution, and that Honda 1.5 mill is notorious for it. In those cases, yes, you are better to step up a grade to start with something heavier.

In the case of engines that don't dilute like crazy, this oil should be rock solid on viscosity retention, and there's basically nothing to shear.
 

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OK - Interesting and good BITOG stuff (!) on the long running darling 0W20.
If one were to run this in a d.i. fuel diluter, how does PAO deal with a moderate % of gasoline and thus ethanol in the fuel vs. the now prevalent typical GTO alkane base?
Dilution is dilution, so viscosity loss due to that will still occur, however, there's little to no VII polymer to breakdown. Whether the viscosity retention is sufficient for your engine will be determined by how bad the dilution is. DI mills are hard on oil not just with fuel, but with soot and other contaminants, so I wouldn't be inclined to go with longer intervals even though the oil is advertised as being capable. In a port injected engine, it should hold up extremely well.
 
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For fuel diluter its better to change oil more often with cheap oil rather than keeping high end oil twice as long.
I understand that. Just curious how PAO "react" with a big load of ethanol and gasoline. I don't want to be forming resins with the acid and alcohols; Not versed or knowledgeable of sump chemistry unwanted reactions.

I was thinking of running QSS 10w30. The stuff I used in the snow thrower is great. I don't know if my tight engine and the VVT will appreciate the extra viscosity. Engine actually runs BETTER when fuel diluted in 1500-2500 rpm poke around driving. But on a highway trip its sounds like it will grenade. I do more around town poking than HS highway.
What to do, what to do ...
 
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Been using this in my CRV'S for some time, with the oil dilution, it's usually below grade in 2500 miles or so. Not so good. Switching to Mobil1 0W-30 AFE to see if it will run a bit longer. Some of these 1.5t engines are real diluters.
Have you tried any of Castrol's Synthetics? Magnatec (GTX Synthetic now), Edge and Edge EP all seem to have very robust VII that withstands shearing in the presence of fuel. Of course the direct loss from dilution itself you cant eliminate. They have been very successful for the Ecoboost community.
 
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Have you tried any of Castrol's Synthetics? Magnatec (GTX Synthetic now), Edge and Edge EP all seem to have very robust VII that withstands shearing in the presence of fuel. Of course the direct loss from dilution itself you cant eliminate. They have been very successful for the Ecoboost community.
Have been seriously considering trying a change to Castrol 0W-20 EP, but in the end, it's still a 20W, subject to the same dilution, don't think that it will do anything different, a 0W-30 will still dilute, but possibly stay above 20W. At my last UOA, both SUS and cSt were below spec at 2100 miles ( admittedly, this CRV gets a lot of " grocery-getter" usage with little long highway usage) but neither, despite a lot of daily highway on the other one usage can get a decent UOA over 4k miles.
 
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Have been seriously considering trying a change to Castrol 0W-20 EP, but in the end, it's still a 20W, subject to the same dilution, don't think that it will do anything different, a 0W-30 will still dilute, but possibly stay above 20W. At my last UOA, both SUS and cSt were below spec at 2100 miles ( admittedly, this CRV gets a lot of " grocery-getter" usage with little long highway usage) but neither, despite a lot of daily highway on the other one usage can get a decent UOA over 4k miles.

I wasn't necessarily suggesting a 20 grade. You might try one of their 5W30's. No need for an 0W unless you are going to deal with temps significantly below zero.
 

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Have been seriously considering trying a change to Castrol 0W-20 EP, but in the end, it's still a 20W, subject to the same dilution, don't think that it will do anything different, a 0W-30 will still dilute, but possibly stay above 20W. At my last UOA, both SUS and cSt were below spec at 2100 miles ( admittedly, this CRV gets a lot of " grocery-getter" usage with little long highway usage) but neither, despite a lot of daily highway on the other one usage can get a decent UOA over 4k miles.
The EP 10w-30 has a VI of 146, so also pretty low (low VII content) but I'd be inclined to try the 5w-30 in your application, see how it holds up if you are dropping out of the xW-20 grade in service.
 
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The EP 10w-30 has a VI of 146, so also pretty low (low VII content) but I'd be inclined to try the 5w-30 in your application, see how it holds up if you are dropping out of the xW-20 grade in service.
You are correct, the M1 5W-30 EP has more certifications than the 0W30 AFE including a Honda certification as well as Dexos1Gen 2. The EP does seem to have a more PAO based formula than the AFE. Here in Central Pennsylvania our temps generally average from a low of 10f to the mid/upper 90's. I've seen 0f but only rarely. Honda specs the 5w-30 only in the Civic CTR, not sure about the 2.0 Accord. I would probably surmise that the difference in start-up cold flow between a 0W and a 5W would be negligible? Strange you don't hear much about OD in other manufacturers small-displacement DI Turbocharged engines that spec 0W-20, perhaps it's primarily a Honda issue.
 
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You are correct, the M1 5W-30 EP has more certifications than the 0W30 AFE including a Honda certification as well as Dexos1Gen 2. The EP does seem to have a more PAO based formula than the AFE. Here in Central Pennsylvania our temps generally average from a low of 10f to the mid/upper 90's. I've seen 0f but only rarely. Honda specs the 5w-30 only in the Civic CTR, not sure about the 2.0 Accord. I would probably surmise that the difference in start-up cold flow between a 0W and a 5W would be negligible? Strange you don't hear much about OD in other manufacturers small-displacement DI Turbocharged engines that spec 0W-20, perhaps it's primarily a Honda issue.
The Ford 1.6 Ecoboost has had a reputation.
 
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You are correct, the M1 5W-30 EP has more certifications than the 0W30 AFE including a Honda certification as well as Dexos1Gen 2. The EP does seem to have a more PAO based formula than the AFE. Here in Central Pennsylvania our temps generally average from a low of 10f to the mid/upper 90's. I've seen 0f but only rarely. Honda specs the 5w-30 only in the Civic CTR, not sure about the 2.0 Accord. I would probably surmise that the difference in start-up cold flow between a 0W and a 5W would be negligible? Strange you don't hear much about OD in other manufacturers small-displacement DI Turbocharged engines that spec 0W-20, perhaps it's primarily a Honda issue.
It's not about flow, it's about cranking and pumpability. And the difference between an oil with a winter rating of 5W as compared to one with a 0W rating is only relevant below around -30F.
 

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You are correct, the M1 5W-30 EP has more certifications than the 0W30 AFE including a Honda certification as well as Dexos1Gen 2. The EP does seem to have a more PAO based formula than the AFE. Here in Central Pennsylvania our temps generally average from a low of 10f to the mid/upper 90's. I've seen 0f but only rarely. Honda specs the 5w-30 only in the Civic CTR, not sure about the 2.0 Accord. I would probably surmise that the difference in start-up cold flow between a 0W and a 5W would be negligible? Strange you don't hear much about OD in other manufacturers small-displacement DI Turbocharged engines that spec 0W-20, perhaps it's primarily a Honda issue.
If you aren't seeing temps that test the 5w-xx Winter rating, then it is fine to use the 5w-30. CCS testing for the 5w-xx rating is -30C (-22F) but since oils are allowed to slip a Winter rating in service, I tend to bump that up to the 10W-xx testing temp of -25C (-13F) which it sounds like you don't hit, so the 5w-xx would be perfectly sufficient.
 
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If you aren't seeing temps that test the 5w-xx Winter rating, then it is fine to use the 5w-30. CCS testing for the 5w-xx rating is -30C (-22F) but since oils are allowed to slip a Winter rating in service, I tend to bump that up to the 10W-xx testing temp of -25C (-13F) which it sounds like you don't hit, so the 5w-xx would be perfectly sufficient.
Pretty much have decided to go with the 5W-30, the Honda certification HTO-06 being the deciding factor over the 0W-30. Now the coin toss between Mobil1 EP and the Castrol EP. Hopefully the bump-up in viscosity will help with the OD in my CRV.
 
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You are correct, the M1 5W-30 EP has more certifications than the 0W30 AFE including a Honda certification as well as Dexos1Gen 2. The EP does seem to have a more PAO based formula than the AFE. Here in Central Pennsylvania our temps generally average from a low of 10f to the mid/upper 90's. I've seen 0f but only rarely. Honda specs the 5w-30 only in the Civic CTR, not sure about the 2.0 Accord. I would probably surmise that the difference in start-up cold flow between a 0W and a 5W would be negligible? Strange you don't hear much about OD in other manufacturers small-displacement DI Turbocharged engines that spec 0W-20, perhaps it's primarily a Honda issue.
Definitely not just a Honda issue.
 
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