Walmart Super Tech Oil

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Originally Posted By: Panzerman
I got reading the reviews and several people said they didn't like it, it made their engines louder and they were going back to a name brand quality oil, get what you pay for Lad de da...


Those people were probably referring to SuperTech synthetic 5W-30 dispensed by Mobil 1.

Before buying the oil, call around to the four major dispensers and give them the product numbers off the bottle; they'll tell you whether it's there's or not. The four major dispensers of SuperTech oil are Citgo, Warren, Mobil, and Shell. If it turns out to be made by Citgo, buy it up!
 
I like the Conventional and High Mileage Supertech. Used those without issues and will likely do so again in the future.

However, my one experience with the synthetic Supertech was not a good one. I got flamed on here for saying that once, but I know what my experience was and won't back down from it.
 
i know some that use it and i heard no complaints... A better deal would be the Smitty's super S at K-mart when it is on sale that is also a pretty good oil at under $9.00 for 5 quarts.
 
My Uncle Keith has 1992 F-150 6cyl. that has well over 200k on it. All he ever used from day one when bought new was 4quarts of 5W30 ST Conventional & 1 quart of 5W30 ST Synthetic paired with a Motorcraft filter. My cousin drives that druck daily to this day.
 
I just took apart my brothers Cadillac to swap out the iron things for some MTS aluminum heads and this 68' Cadillac Calais 4dr has always for the past 8 years had Mobil super made ST and now WPP 10w30 ST in it. Engine was good and clean looking at the piston tops
 
I know that I've used ST a time or two.
For the kind of OCIs you're looking at, I'd not think twice about using it.
The main rap I have on ST is that there are other store brand oils available at lower prices, like those from Rural King and Meijer.
RK also offers a wider choice of grades.
Still, nothing wrong with using ST as long as you recognize that the conventional isn't a budget priced version of PYB and the syn isn't the same as M1.
Those claiming a gazillion miles of operation on any given oil should bear in mind that heroic mileages on an engine are probably more a matter of how much that engine is used than the oil used in it.
Drive a lot of miles and an engine running ST would likely stay as clean and run as long as it would on any other brand of oil.
 
I've used it plenty of times in my lawnmower without complaints. Granted, that's not exactly a stringent application aside from the inherent messiness of a carbureted engine in what is invariably a dusty environment. As I change it(and the filter) every fall and will only put 50 hours on the engine in an especially wet summer, I don't think I'm stressing the oil. Even so, the engine still looks good after 10 years.

I rack up enough miles on my DD that I stick with Mobil 1(and extended intervals), and use a weight not available in ST in my classic "toy." I have grabbed the 10W30 I use in the lawnmower to fill the carb dashpots on my MG in a pinch, although that's an application where pretty much any oil from ATF to 90 weight gear oil will give decent(if not necessarily optimum) results since its only function is as a damper and 10W30 is close enough to middle ground(I actually use 20W50 normally in there-the same as the engine).

I'm also considering using it the next time I do an oil change in my dad's car. He's pretty stuck on 3,000 miles still(regardless of how many times I point out the 5,000 mile interval stated in his book), but it takes him 6 months+ to get there and most of the miles on his car anyway are long trip interstate miles.
 
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Yes I am a fan of Citgo motor oil.
Do you have a secret code for knowing by just looking at the bottle info? thanks.
 
Before I was a member here I had two not so great UOA done on newer cars and since I take care of my parents cars and pay for the oil I tried to save a few $$$ but used top notch Filters- Fram Ultra and M1's. The UOA's were on the 5w-20 Synthetic and I used conventional 5w-20 on a fresh 4000 mile 4 cylinder and at 2000 miles on a fresh filter the oil was coal black and nasty. The OEM fill looked nearly new- golden transparent color. When I drained the ST oil not only was it coal black, it was very thin and had clumps in it. Yes clumps with much red residue as well. When I pulled the Fram filter it too had slivers of thick gelled like oil. I had never seen that in say 35 years of oil changes. I figured it maybe glue from the filter but it was gelled oil.

I had issues with the 5w-30 Synthetic in a few mowers and all of this oil was a bulk purchase and it just may have been bad batches.

I just avoid it now. You can get PYB for under $13 on Amazon with a subscription and PP for under $20 a jug and 6qts of Havoline Syn for $19 and on and on.

I could go on but I just don't see the value in it and lost trust from a few instances.



[quoteA post that leaves me dangling...
Okay, why are you not a fan of it? You said you have nothing against WM, so that is out. Was it the wrong color of bottle? Did your shopping cart have a wobbly wheel? Did the check-out lady turn down your advances?
Or...did your engine seize up and die?
(Not a fan or hater of WM oil when I can get TropArtic and Peak at reasonable prices, I just had to ask)][/quote]
 
I use it all the time. Probably one of the best buys out there and will continue to use it.
 
You see that statement on here daily.
In theory it sounds good. But that is not the reality unless each quart or jug of oil was tested against that SN spec or whatever specification the oil is you are buying. I often see Lucas oil which is very expensive failing or being close to failing when tested and that's not some elcheapo oil. A label is a promise that's all. Promises are often worthless. However I understand what you're saying but those specifications are simply guidelines and a suggestion on what you may or may not get.

Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
There is no such thing as a bad SAE SN oil. That's all there is to it.
 
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
I often see Lucas oil which is very expensive failing or being close to failing when tested and that's not some elcheapo oil.

You see the set of SN (or a subset) tests run on Lucas, and see it failing? Where is that?
I agree we rightly wonder about ISO level quality in a production batch, yet where are you seeing a particular brand of oil failing?
 
I looked into Lucas awhile back.
Not failing as in it will blow up your car but low TBN numbers and over 15 Noack etc. I don't consider that a premium oil.
When I have time I'll look up some of the info. I guess in that case ST oil is fine
smile.gif
 
We used the Walmart oil in our travel van exclusively (because it was cheap) and that van made 200K miles at least (we sold it so no telling how many more it traveled). It's good oil, despite the name on the bottle.

As for Lucas, I have no experience with that.
 
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I have ran ST conventional 5W30 in my '96 Maxima for the last six years. I am currently at 318,000 miles with no timing chain noise, nor any other engine noise. I don't burn a drop, and I always change between 4 and 6K.
 
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I've used a ton of Supertech oil since about 1990. In fact, I can think of at least two vehicles I owned since new which spent their entire lives on a diet of off brand gasoline and Supertech oil. Never had a single oil related issue with Supertech in any of my vehicles.It's bargain priced but it's very good quality. I plan on running their synthetic in one of my vehicles beginning with its next oil change. I even used to use Supertech filters but I havent seen them in quite a while. Too bad because they were good too.

-Valentine
 
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WOW where did you get aluminum heads for that??
Crankshaft Balancing are problems with the 500-472-368-425 they are balanced at the factory as a whole assembly.
 
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