Volvo 1275810 filter (Mahle?), open, carbon in pleats

Joined
Sep 20, 2014
Messages
2,453
Location
Seattle-ish, WA
2004 Volvo XC70, 5,450 miles on oil/filter.
Performed engine flush
Replaced with Fram Ultra, Mobil 1 10w-30 HM + Lubegard Biotech

Note: The car had a PCV system change and oil trap replacement very shortly after this filter/oil was installed.

The Filter + oil installed by Volvo dealer at time of sale 16 months ago/5,450 miles ago. Believe the oil to be 5w30 Castrol Synthetic based on the window sticker. 122k on car now. The sump was about 2qts low, and small carbon shards in most of the pleats. The cartridge filter is in a molded cap w/the by-pass valve built in, pointing downwards. There was a 1/4 inch of sludgy mess in the bottom of the filter cap, also with carbon shards like this.

Before I removed the filter, I did a flush with 8ozs of Chemtool B-12 for 15 minutes at idle, x2. Then I added 1.5qts of diesel and did the same x2.

I believe the mess is from the fact the "oil trap" on the car was replaced a hundred miles or so after the oil change. It's a system I think unique to Volvo and they have a tendency to clog and create a real oil/sludge/carbon soup in a big box connected to the sump. I believe this was residue from that.

I installed a Fram Ultra filter and 6 qts of Mobil 1 10w-30, and 12 ozs of Lubegard Biotech. I will pull the filter after 500 miles to see how it looks; it's fairly easy to do that on this engine w/o much mess.

IMG-2268.JPG
IMG-2269.JPG
IMG-2267 (2).JPG
 
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
12,347
Location
USA
Looks good! Thank you posting :)

Yeah, it looks like a Mahle.

Why the Fram Ultra? How long do you plan on keeping it in there? I remember the Ultra for your Volvo costing almost $30 at Walmart! How much did you pay for your Ultra? The Napa Platinum (Wix XP) was on sale last month for $6.49. The Napa Platinum sale is the only cartridge I'd use besides Mann, Mahle, and Hengst
 

Oro_O

Thread starter
Joined
Sep 20, 2014
Messages
2,453
Location
Seattle-ish, WA
Actually, I got the Fram Ultra off Amazon delivered for $9.50.

I did see the NAPA sale, but apparently the very last day. I was going to order two at that price, then the next day I went to add other things to the order and the sale was off. I'd definitely use the XP at that price (!) but missed it, and the Amazon price was good. I like the Ultra and have been using it for years; I posted a long time ago when I cut some open after 15k and 21k miles.

Huh, just looked and now the Ultra is back to $30-ish on Amazon:


I guess they were matching Napa sale somewhat and I got lucky. I will pay attention to the next NAPA sale and grab some XP there, then. Thanks for pointing that out!

If the oil chunk problem is from the oil trap replacement and no-ongoing concern, I'll leave this Ultra in at least 15k. I understand Volvo says 7,500mi OCIs are ok with good synthetic. What I will probably do is get a Wix oil analysis done at 5k and see what it says and go from there. This is probably going to be a daily driver for me, or maybe my step-son if I find a great deal on an Audi Allroad.
 
Joined
Sep 30, 2013
Messages
13,509
Location
Indiana
I mainly run these in my wife’s car. $4.50 or so on Rock Auto for the Mahle ox149d.

They always look like this. I’ve tried Mann and it’s a bit wavy.

Not sure if your model is a turbo or not, but I’d skip all the flushes and strictly run a 0w40 for a nice slow cleaning. My first oil change 6 years ago was the way you described yours. Plus, I had sludge in the filter pleats. All clean now.
 
Joined
Mar 15, 2015
Messages
550
Location
Florida
Use caution doing engine flushes. Not recommended. Not a good idea. I’ve seen engine failures at my shop from people doing flushes. Not necessary and harmful. Think of the oil like your circulatory system. Overtime plaque builds up from cholesterol. It sticks to the arteries. Let’s say you did a flush of your blood somehow and broke up all the build up. Sounds good right?!?!! WRONG. Now the “sludge And stuff” which was once attached is now floating free. Hello stroke. For your engine small oil passages can get easily clogged resulting in a seized engine due to a flush.

if an engine is running fine and has no problems please don’t do engine flushes. Especially please don’t use diesel fuel. That’s an outdated method from about 30-40 years ago or even longer. I’m going to assume since you just bought the car 5k miles ago it runs fine or else you wouldn’t have purchased. You answered you own question why the filter was showing larger deposits due to oil trap replacement. Simply change the oil as normal per OEM interval and drive.

Don't try to solve problems where no problem exists. You will never find an OEM maintenance schedule or owners manual suggesting any sort of flush. Ever. Also suggest you stop using additives. Just use oil and a new filter. You are experimenting with whatever is in The snake oil additives as a chemistry experiment with how it’s going to react with the oil and it’s additives and your engine. Again.....don‘t try to solve a problem where no problem exists.

The filter looks fine to me btw. It’s dirty. It’s supposed to be. That’s how filters work.
 

Astro14

$100 Site Donor
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2010
Messages
13,752
Location
Virginia Beach
When you do an Flame Trap replacement on that engine, it's very hard to keep tiny bits of carbon from falling into the sump. There is generally a ton of carbon built up in the passages from block to sump, and they must be cleaned, or the job won't last.

I wouldn't worry about the carbon, it's certainly from the Flame Trap replacement.

Check again on the next change, it'll look much better.
 
Top