quote:
Originally posted by pscholte:
Well, ****, that leaves us with three choices; (1) believe the engineers are NOT having their arms twisted and accepting what they put in the owner's manual; (2) believe that they are, but that "twisted" advice is better than what we can come up with as amateurs (our chemist/engineer board members excepted); or (3) make our own amateurish best guess...I'll go with "(1 1/2)."
Since I was an engineer for quite awhile, and even managed a powertrain group, I know that as a general rule #1 isn't a valid assumption.
If you believe the engineers that design things have final say on what goes in the owners manuals and shop manuals, I own a large golden colored bridge just north of San Francisco I'll sell you.
When you decide to slavishly follow the owners manual, you are slavishly following the corporate party line, which may or may not be what is best for you. And may or may not be what the people that designed and tested the stuff use in their own cars.
I found out about 15W-40 diesel oil being good for a lot of things besides trucks from a GM powertrain engineer in the 1980s.
You can take #2 and think for your self a bit. Consider what the corporate objectives are and how they would have affected the published recomendations we get in our owners manuals.
Also consider what happens if the oil you but is at the extreme ends of it's viscopsity rating. A 20 weight can be nearly the same as thin 30 weight, or a thick 10 weight.
I know what I'm going to run. If you really believe that your owners manual was written with the objective of giving you best engine life wihout a big bias towards meeting corporate fuel economy objectives, then good luck. Check back in 200,000 miles.
I have no problem with thin lubricaants in the proper application. I have designed succesful journal bearings that used water as a lubricant. But engines aren't designed that way.